FAQ Info on A/C: please read if not working - Page 15 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #211 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-23-2008, 05:33 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
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BUMP.

I bought a new transducer (post '95 style I guess) from Advanced Autoparts for my 1994Intrepid 3.3. It came in, and sure enough, did NOT have the right socket. So, I went to the local u-pull, and got a couple of harnesses. One from a Sebring (I think) that has like a one foot long harness, but broken clip. The other came from a New Yorker (I think) just so I had the best chance at having the right color wires...

now for the $10,000 question...

do you know if the colors of the wires are the same from year to year, model to model? If I cut off my old one, can I just splice in the new one color for color?
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post #212 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-23-2008, 06:12 PM
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It is probably the same "color for color" , but without being there to reverse engineer it, I couldn't confirm. I don't believe there is any harm in trying. it'll either work or wont work.
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post #213 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-23-2008, 08:57 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
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The harm in just trying it is that you could probably supply 12 volts to the PCM, and the PCM wouldn't be happy (in theory, I'm not about to risk a PCM just to try it).

Well, I'm HAPPY to report that I have a 35 dollar solution to the Transducer problem!!!

Parts America sells a Factory Air brand (by 4Seasons) pressure switch, part number 20951. It retailed for $31.58 (or somethign like that, it was $33.90 with tax), and was a special order next day item at my local Advanced Autoparts. It has the wrong plug on it for my car, a 1994 Intrepid 3.3. As described in this forum earlier, it does appear that Dodge did change the sensor in 1995. It is the only one available though. To solve this problem, you have two choices... Auto zone sells a pig tailset for $31, or you go to your local pick-n-pull. Cut the harness off of a car with the correct end! Mine actually didn't cost me a thing as the guy manning the desk over the lunch hour was lazy.

As I went to install it in my car, I pulled apart the loom... it's already been a repaired! There were heavy shrink tubes already covering the dealer's splice... I just swapped color for color, it worked fine.

I did not use the complete harness that is about a foot long, if anyone wants it, let me know. I'll send for the price of postage...

Much cheaper than going to the dealer and shelling out $92-$115 that I was quoted on Friday... and still having to get a harness!
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post #214 of 242 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 10:57 PM
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Talking a/c not working!

I have a 1995 Dodge Intrepid ES, and the ac isn't working. I got the ac to work a couple of weeks ago when I filled the system with R134a (making sure not to over charge using two seperate gauges to be sure) and it was working fine for a few days. Power to the compressor was normal before I even put the R134a in. But after the few days, it started working sometimes, and sometimes not. I pulled the ac clutch relay out of the fuse panel (to see if it was bad) under the hood and opened the relay itself. I turned the ac on inside the car and touched the connector inside the relay (holding it for less that a minute) and the ac started working fine on its own (without me holding it). Now the only way I can get the ac to start is to do it this way. I bought a new relay at the auto parts store and installed it, but the same thing is happening so I know it not the relay itself. When the ac does work, it's nice and cold so I know it's not the compressor that's the problem. Why do I have to manipulate the ac relay to get it to work. What is causing the relay to not activate and turn the ac on? Is it the transducer? Or I saw someone mention the evaporator sensor? I know where the transducer is by reading the threads, but where is the evaporator sensor located, and is it accessible?
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post #215 of 242 (permalink) Old 08-07-2008, 10:25 AM
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A bad evap sensor will keep the AC from shutting off, IIRC, not keep it from turning on.
Oddly, my ac has stopped working all together. I need to replace my transducer again, and fix my wire-splicing I think... I wonder if I'm not getting a bad connection. I need to solder it.. Anyway, you might also try pulling the heating and cooling diagnostic at the pannel (both MTC and ATC models have a self diagnostic you can put them through, check your favorite Haynes manual).
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post #216 of 242 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 06:26 PM
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Thanks, I will be trying your suggestions this weekend.
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post #217 of 242 (permalink) Old 08-10-2008, 08:56 PM
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Well I tried the self diagnostic on my ATC and no codes! Went to several auto parts stores looking for the transducer and they all referred me back to the dealer because they couldn't order it. It was $108 too expensive, but I bought it anyway. I disconnected the wiring, and when I started unscrewing the transducer, some freon came out, so I didn't go any further. I tightened it back up. But isn't there a schrader valve behind it? Maybe I had to keep unscrewing it before it would stop? Should I just go for it and hope for the best?
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post #218 of 242 (permalink) Old 08-10-2008, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beo111 View Post
Well I tried the self diagnostic on my ATC and no codes! Went to several auto parts stores looking for the transducer and they all referred me back to the dealer because they couldn't order it. It was $108 too expensive, but I bought it anyway. I disconnected the wiring, and when I started unscrewing the transducer, some freon came out, so I didn't go any further. I tightened it back up. But isn't there a schrader valve behind it? Maybe I had to keep unscrewing it before it would stop? Should I just go for it and hope for the best?
There should be a schrader valve in that fitting. There will be some "blow by" as the sensor is removed until the pin on the schrader is not depressed.
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post #219 of 242 (permalink) Old 08-10-2008, 11:56 PM
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The transducer is available at both Autozone and Parts America. If you can't get one of them to get it, I'll go get you a part number. It's only 30-40 dollars there. Return the dealer part, IMO, but some would prefer the dealer part.

Removing the transducer will release Freon, as Paul said. I went ahead and replaced my schrader valve when I put my new transducer on, it took some work to get the tool I had in there to remove the valve, but swapped in a new one. Then the transducer will make SOME leak as you remove or install it, but it won't be much.

Keep us posted. I changed my transducer, and it worked fine for about 2 weeks, then failed. I changed transducers again, and it's still broke. I had changed the wire harness to a late model end, any supplier you buy from will have the new style plug and you'll have to do the same probably.

If you have to get a new harness... do yourself a favor and cut a pigtail from a salvage yard (bring your new sensor so you know you get the right end), and then splice it to your harness. Just match up the colors.

I need to go fix my splice I think. Make sure you solder your joints and then protect them well. That I think may be my problem, as the signal from this switch is very sensitive to voltage variations. I've just got some quickly crimped connections wrapped in electrical tape (Hey, it was a parking lot repair, give me a break )
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post #220 of 242 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 11:35 PM
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Turns out, it was the transducer! As soon as I replaced it, it's been nice and cold in the car. Thanks for all of the help! This place is the best source for Dodge problems!
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post #221 of 242 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 10:19 AM
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A quick update on mine as well... I took it on Saturday night and put it up on ramps to get easy access to that wire harness... pulled the tape off, and sure enough one of my wires had pulled from the crimp. So, i just cut off all the crimps, twisted the wires together, applied flux and soldered it up right. Slipped shink tubing on them before soldering and the shrunk each wire independantly, then one big piece to cover that. THen slipped the loom back over it and wrapped that all in black tape...

DING! It worked! Not to add just a tad more freon and we're good to go!

Congrats Beo111... Did you have to change the pigtail, or did you get the transducer with the same plug? Where'd you get your part at?
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post #222 of 242 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 06:06 PM
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I had to change the pigtail because it wouldn't fit on the new one. All three wires were the same color so no problem. I got the transducer from the dealer because none of the local auto parts stores could not order it for me, they said it was only a dealer part. Paid $108 at the local Dodge dealer, but it was worth it because I need the cool air!!
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post #223 of 242 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 06:31 PM
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Good deal!
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post #224 of 242 (permalink) Old 09-04-2008, 02:19 PM
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Hey all..I've read several pages and I can't seem to find the answer..MY '97 LHS 3.5 a/c problem..The a/c air will stop blowing out of the vents after an hour or less..it works great up to the hour and s-l-o-w-l-e-y stops.The air still is cold..but hardley nothing coming out of any vents...The fan runs normal and at all settings..I can feel a little "ICE" on the vents on the passanger side, under the dash..is there a vent door that is shutting on me..vacuum leak?? if I turn the heat on for a while the unit will work again , but for a shorter time..ICE buildup..help as I'am listing the car for sale over the weekend..thanks,thanks, & thanks..SUPER web site here !!
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post #225 of 242 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 08:43 AM
 
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Hello all, I am having a really weird problem, my ac will blow nice and cold then all of a sudden switch to defrost with full blown heat, I can then push the ac button and it will go back to blowing cold. I have pulled out the ATC control head and while it is blowing cold, pull the plug that powers the control head, and after a little bit will go to the defrost/heat mode. Thanks in advance. Matt
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