FAQ Info on A/C: please read if not working - Page 2 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #16 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 07:27 AM
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It's early and I may have missed it but did anyone ever figure out which wires to jump to test the low pressure switch (transducer)?
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post #17 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-14-2003, 01:10 PM
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I have neither the time, the will or the effort to read something that long.
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post #18 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-14-2003, 04:49 PM
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sorry, i tried to break it up into sections...but you really should read the part that applies to your problem and the laast 1/3 of it before doing any a/c work....
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post #19 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-14-2003, 06:04 PM
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bjlv,

Thanks a lot for the information. Do you think that there is any other way to perform a flush without going to a mechanic? This is my problem and I have asked for advice here, but no one has answered hopefully you can...... My compressor was changed out as well as the reciever/drier, the clutch engages for about 3-4 min. then shuts off and no more cold air in the cabin... Personally I think that it is electrical, however how do I pinpoint that it is the transducer (where is it located) and how do I tell if it is the clutch relay??? God I would it if you can give me a pointer, I am dying of humidity and heat here in MN. Thanks!
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post #20 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-16-2003, 12:41 AM
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so the system wasnt flushed right? Its possible that its a electrical problem, but it also could be bits of metal that are plugging up the expansion valve, which is causing the compressor to build a excessive amount of pressure since the gas has no where to go, so then the high pressure cut may be getting triggered and turning off the compressor. Although i would think that the compressor would cycle off by then as the pressure on the low side would be very low in that case. tell me this. When the car quits cooling is the compressor still cycling on and off? If it is then its not a electrical problem. I think you may need to connect a manifold guage set to the system to see exactly what its doing pressure wise. Also try posting your situation on www.aircondition.com those guys over there are great. Most of the above info is stuff i have picked up in that forum. Let me know....
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post #21 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-16-2003, 11:04 PM
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Hey Keifer,

I spent the better part of 1 and 1/2 hours on my back trying different combinations of jumpers and key positions today and still cant find a way to jump this damn switch. There are three wires at the plug. NONE are hot constant, ONE is a hot ignition(purple), and the others are ground or just dead.

I got really pissed and figured with all the time I spent trying to bypass this damn thing, I should just buy a new sitch from the dealer (Allen Samuels Dodge here in Katy $70.13).

I tried to remove the sensor today and found that the check valve is bad, causing a leak as soon as I get about two full turns on the thing.

I spoke to the dealer and the service manager says that the problem is not the switch, but the check valve. The short tube that the valve sits in is facing the ground, causing all sorts of crud from the system to collect in it, in effect causing the sensor to see a reduced pressure. This might explain why I can tap the sensor and it then kicks the clutch in.

All total, the parts are about $90. Better than 98degrees!!!!

Check with your local dealer.

Last edited by Tiregod1; 06-19-2003 at 01:29 AM.
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post #22 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-17-2003, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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Actually, I went to a U-pull-it junk yard today and got a new tansducer with wire harness (from a 97, with a new connector) and paid only $5 for it. I should have pics of it soon when I get the rest of my film developed.
It was an easy install too. Too about 5 minutes and the A/C is finally fixed. Gotta love a $75 dollar part that works for only $5.
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post #23 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-17-2003, 11:21 AM
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Imagine my surprise when I find the very problem I am experiencing is at the top of the page! My AC clutch will not engage. I thought at first due to low refrigerant levels as the system does have a slow leak. I ran a hot wire to the compressor so it would run while I added some R134. After 2 cans the compressor still will not run on its own. I suspect a bad transducer as well, but am reluctant to spend the $87 till I know for sure, plus the fact that I will lose the 2 cans of refrigerant I have just added. Another reason to suspect the transducer or perhaps this check ball I read about earlier in the post is that I have used R134 with leak sealer in the past. I have since learned that this stuff can gum up a system. A problem which may be related is that I noticed back during the winter that the electric radiator fans had started to run all the time, even when the engine was cold. When I unplug the transducer the fans quit, when I plug it in they start again, even when the engine is cold. Could the transducer be telling the computer not to turn on the compressor and to run the fans all the time? Could it be a faulty coolant temperature sensor causing both problems?
Thanks for any help.
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post #24 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-17-2003, 10:55 PM
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KY, the 134 w/leak sealer will do nothing more than ruin a perfectly good dryer.

Today I replaced the transducer and check valve. Pulled a 30lb. vacume for over 1hr and held it for 45min with no leaks. Then began to charge the system. After about a minute and a half, the high side guage pegged at over 500psi!!!! :mg: :crazy:

Shortly thereafter, the flipping hose blew off of the high side quick connect. I immediatley realized that there had to be a seroius restriction in the system.

After spending the next 30min blowing the dryer out, I began to draw a vacume again. Finally, we have cold A/C!!!

Just so you know, if you have a set of manifold guages, the low side should read close to 35 and the high side no more than 250 with the clutch engaged.

Enjoying the arctic blasts of a properly charged A/C system
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post #25 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-18-2003, 11:10 AM
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OK people, apparently we are all expierencing the same damn thing, so where do I find this transducer and this ball thing?? Can I do it myself or do I have to take it to yet another garage to vaccum out and pressurize again? Please help me, it is getting hot and humid here in MN.
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post #26 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 01:45 AM
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Hey Van, check out this picture, it's from an earlier post.



It helped me.

Goodluck
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post #27 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 10:27 AM
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Tiregod,

Thanks! Now what do you have to do to replace the damn thing?
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post #28 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 04:06 PM
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No offense, but this has to be one of the most unorganized FAQ posts i've seen in a while. I'm so confused after reading all of the replys, i'm beginning to think AC is the same as Heat!

Anyways, I have a Code 33 is this for sure either a bad relay, or a bad pressure transducer? Will no freon in the system trip this code? Will a bad clutch coil trip this code? Could it be anything else?

Can the pressure transducer be tested or bypassed to determine if that is the problem?

Is there anyway to do a "dirty" test to see if there is freon in the system without AC tools?

Thanks for a clear explanation ahead of time!
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post #29 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-20-2003, 09:27 PM
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Ussually you can jump the Clutch if it has 2 wires gooing to it. pull it out and one goes to positive battery one to neg. it shoul run. do you have a set of gages. If you do and when you hook them up, if the Blue side(low side) goes in a vacuum them it is probbally a Expansion valve or orvice tube.
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post #30 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-23-2003, 10:50 AM
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I discovered that you don't lose the charge when changing transducers, the fitting it is screwed on to has a shrader valve in it. I just ordered a transducer for my 96 Eagle Vision. If this turns out to not be my problem I will probably be willing to sell it to someone else at a discount. Stay tuned.......
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