FAQ Info on A/C: please read if not working - Page 5 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #61 of 242 (permalink) Old 09-11-2003, 03:06 PM
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It's a "Nippondenso" compressor -can't get away from the Japanese...
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post #62 of 242 (permalink) Old 09-13-2003, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by alarkyokie
It's a "Nippondenso" compressor -can't get away from the Japanese...
its a very good compressor though...and economically priced...

Last edited by bjlv; 09-13-2003 at 01:52 PM.
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post #63 of 242 (permalink) Old 09-17-2003, 06:10 PM
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Adding some info...

Nippondenso Compressor 10PA17-R-134a [01][02]

Evaporator Oil Charge 2.0 oz.

Condenser Oil Charge 1.0 oz.

Receiver-Dryer Oil Charge 2.0 oz.

Lines Oil Charge 1.5 oz.

I cannot find a consistant figure for the total system charge...most say 5oz...others say 7,8,9,10, or 11 oz dont know which is correct. Contact the dealer...
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post #64 of 242 (permalink) Old 10-03-2003, 04:07 AM
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I haven't seen it posted here, but 1st gens are notorious for evaporator leaks. I myself had it replaced 6 times under warranty, I know of another trep that had 8. If a leak allows enough refrigerant out, it will cut off the compressor.
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post #65 of 242 (permalink) Old 10-06-2003, 09:48 PM
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On non-ATC systems, the LED light on the rear-window defogger button will display some diagnostic codes by blinking.

1) To begin the diagnostic mode, run the vehicle at idle with the controls set as followed:

Blower Speed Knob - Any position other than OFF
Temperature Knob - FULL COOL
Right Knob - Defrost Mode

2) Then, press the defogger switch in for 5 seconds until it begins to blink, then release it. It will continue to blink for about 30 seconds, if the light goes out, calibration is OK, if calibration is Okay skip to step 6.

3)If the light remains blinking, switch the mode knob to the MIX position, if the light still remains on there is a problem with the control head.

4) Then switch to FLOOR position, if the light stays on it indicates a problem with the blend door or the blend actuator wiring.

5) Then switch to BI-LEVEL position, if the light stays on it indicated a problem with the mode actuator, or circuit.

6) If the light went off, move the knob to the MIX mode, the LED should flash twice then pause, and continue the 2 flash sequence indicating that this mode is OK.

7) In the FLOOR mode, the light should flash in threes, indicating this mode is OK. In BI-LEVEL mode, a 4-flash sequence indicates this mode is OK. In RECIRCULATE-PANEL mode, a 5-flash sequence means OK, and in RECIRCULATE-BI-LEVEL mode a 6-flash sequence means OK.

8) The temperate KNOB can be checked by switching the mode knob to DEFROST and rotating the temperature knob, the light will flash faster as you turn the temperature knob up, and will turn off at full HOT setting, indicating this mode is OKAY.

9) Switch the KNOB between Panel and Re-circulate Panel and watch the recirculation door, proper operation means the circuit and components are OK..

To get OUT of SELF Diagnostic mode, push the A/C button once.
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post #66 of 242 (permalink) Old 10-25-2003, 03:10 PM
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I have 2 first gen Intrepids, both with over 275,000 km that I maintain. The radiator fans are operated by two relays. The relays are controlled by the PCM. The PCM operated the relays relative to two input signals, one from the coolant temperature sensor and one from the A/C pressure transducer. The coolant temperature sensor is a variable resistance device that operates in a range from 300 to 2000 ohms. Any signal outside this range is seen as a fault by the PCM. The A/C pressure transducer is a variable voltage device that operates from 0 to 4.5 volts. Any signal outside this range is seen as a fault by the PCM. You can use a 1 or 5 watt 2000 ohm potentiometer and solder on 3 test leads to trouble shoot either sensor. Label the test leads 1-2-3. You should have 2000 ohms between leads 1 and 3 and variable 0 to 2000 ohms between leads 1 and 2. For the coolant sensor remove the connector and attach the the #1 test lead to either connector wire and the #2 test lead to the other. Turn the pot full clockwise (2000) ohms and start the car. Slowly turn the pot ccw and mark the point when the low speed fan turns on. Continue and mark the point when the high speed fan turns on. You cannot connect an ohmmeter while performing this test. You must position it at the marks and take a reading after the test. Compare to the chart below.
To test the A/C pressure transducer, remove the connector and connect test lead #1 to the Violet/Purple wire, #2 to the Dark Blue wire and #3 to the Black/Lite blue wire. Connect a DC voltmeter to test leads #2 and #3. Turn the pot full counter clockwise and start the car with the A/C off. Slowly turn the pot clockwise and note the voltage reading when the low speed and high speed fan turn on and off.
This is the relationship of readings to fan operation.
FANS A/C Press Transducer Cooant Sensor
PSI VOLTS TEMP RESISTANCE
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Low ON 210 3.5v 99 c 800 ohms
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Low OFF 125 2.2v 93 c 900 ohms
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
High ON 250 4.4v 130 c 500 ohms
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
High OFF 230 4.0v 110 c 700 ohms
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post #67 of 242 (permalink) Old 11-12-2003, 09:51 PM
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The transducer is a redesigned part with a new connector that relpaces the origional wireharnes connector,,,you need to lift the front end, i used ramps to install it,,,use solder for a trouble free connection,,,the AC started working after the new transducer was put in... BE preparied to screw in the new on in a hurry,,,there is a schreder valve behind the transducer,,,mine was stuck open and some gas got lose,,,screwed on the new one right away however...LOL
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post #68 of 242 (permalink) Old 12-27-2003, 08:26 PM
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I'm lucky that I don't have to deal with this. Don't care about AC much anyway and after the compressor seized, chopped the belt and no more problems...
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post #69 of 242 (permalink) Old 01-22-2004, 09:48 PM
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do not have to flush just to replace the clutch its a external part not internal. To jump one if power is going to ac switch on drier you can jump it there. That switch is also a cycling switch so if you have one that runs for a few then shuts off I would start there. The new R-134 feron is not like the old r-12 you must charge the 134 system with a set of gauge's to get it correct. The old 12 systems you could just eyeball the sight glass. when flushing a system it best to remove lines and flush eah one then back flush the evaporater because of the exspanion valve. My self I dont flush a system unless there has been a compreeser failure
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post #70 of 242 (permalink) Old 01-24-2004, 08:05 PM
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My specs:

'94 3.3L trep
332000KMS
Tranny rebuilt last year, currently having more problems (probably fluid related)

Now, my problem is that my brother tried to turn the compressor "head" or the thing that the belt turns (bare with me...i love mechanics but i'm still new at them) and it didn't budge a bit! He claims my compressor is siezed and i think he's right. When i did the whole "turn on off on off on" trick with the engine error codes...i got two codes "33" & "45". 33 says that i have something wrong with my A/C clutch? and well 45...that's another story that i'm still fearing replacement of the tranny...*shivers*
any ideas about how i can start fixing the a/c...i really wanna impress the ppl who gave me this car, who gave up on the a/c after they broke a couple of belts....
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post #71 of 242 (permalink) Old 01-25-2004, 02:33 AM
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the compressor is shot. No good. And in about 99.9% incidents of compressor failure the compressor spreads fragments of its internals throughout the system requiring you to flush the system...replace the reciever drier..all the o-rings and maybe even the expansion valve depending on its condition on top of the compressor itself.

you will need to disassemble the sytem. take it all out except the evaportator as thats a 8hour job. You will need to flush the system with mineral spirits and blow everything dry with DRY compressed air. You can flush the evaporator in the car by using your figure to build pressure on oneside and letting the pressure go...this will get more out. From there you will put a distribution of new oil in the components. Be certain to use PAG100. From there the last and final component you will install will be the NEW reciever drier. then a long deep vacuum will need to be pulled and then the system will need to be recharged.

other than that i suggest reading this whole thread to get a good biasis of how to service your A/C.

for your tranny. I always suggest changing the fluid in the event of problems. Drop the pan...lift the front end up high and you will get all the fluid out of the trans except that within the tranny cooler. I personally view flushes as waste of money and often a decieteful tactic used by shops to ge more $. The proper way to do it is to drop the pan and change the filter and clean the metal from the pan.

hope this helps and feel free to ask questions as you go. Also you may want to add a auxilary tranny cooler to your car...
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post #72 of 242 (permalink) Old 01-25-2004, 08:34 AM
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If you can turn the clutch(flat piece on front of comp with a nut holding it on) its not locked up. If the pulley the belt rides on is locked up and clutch turns you can replace the assemble. Sometimes the bearing in the pulley goes bad and it will lock up and can be replaced.......
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post #73 of 242 (permalink) Old 01-25-2004, 09:17 AM
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I'll have to check it out in a few months from now...it's kinda -25 C here in Montreal and everyone is feezing their butts off! For now, i've got the a/c running without having to use any compressor...since it's so bloody cold out! I'm wondering if i can mod my heater to be able to add a compatiable BLOW TORCH in there to warm things up quicker! lol
Thanks alot for your help guys...i'm gonna read up on it a bit more and i'll check back with anything i've found/done!!
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post #74 of 242 (permalink) Old 01-25-2004, 05:51 PM
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yeah the intrepid heaters arent the best...I suppose they should have gone with a thicker heater core or something. All i know is that its not enough for me when its 10f degrees here. Bet the heater doesnt do much of anything at -25 C degrees!
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post #75 of 242 (permalink) Old 01-25-2004, 07:40 PM
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has anyone tried running a hotter thermostat, not for sure what temp stat's are stock on these
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