FAQ Info on A/C: please read if not working - Page 6 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #76 of 242 (permalink) Old 02-01-2004, 12:20 PM
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If your heaters aren't keeping up it's not the design, you have something wrong. I had a 1 year old '94 Concorde in Sault St. Marie, Ontario, one December, the temp was -42 F. It started after sitting outside overnight, and with the fan on high (auto ATC actually) it kept kept the interior reasonably warm and the windshield clear.
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post #77 of 242 (permalink) Old 02-01-2004, 01:03 PM
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the thermostat is fine as the car heats up in the appropriate amount of time. However the heater just is not as affective as other cars that i have owned/driven. However i have seen much much worse.
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post #78 of 242 (permalink) Old 02-01-2004, 05:09 PM
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maybe you have a door inside your heater box not closing completely or a bad servo or may be something binding up. Most of the have seperate chambers for heat and a/c and a door between to regulate temp...Just a thought.............
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post #79 of 242 (permalink) Old 03-23-2004, 07:36 PM
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my AC works fine but when I'm running it, it seems to drain my power or something because after running for a min or so the radio will go silent but still be running, and my lights are weakened when the SC has been running. Everything goes back to normally a few seconds after I turn off the AC. Anyone know what the problem is and/or how to fix it?
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post #80 of 242 (permalink) Old 03-26-2004, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Shortly thereafter, the flipping hose blew off of the high side quick connect. I immediatley realized that there had to be a seroius restriction in the system.
I installed a new dryer in a car a while back and had a big restriction....turns out the damn thing was welded solid shut on the inside of 1 tube
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post #81 of 242 (permalink) Old 04-06-2004, 11:31 PM
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Lightbulb Transducer By-Pass

I do air conditioning repair on the side. I have a simple circuit which allows you to diagnose a bad transducer. The transducer is fed by a 5 volt signal which has 2.5 volts at the output in a static (no pressure) situation. With three resistors and a variable resistor I can makt the clutch engage and high speed fan come on.
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post #82 of 242 (permalink) Old 05-27-2004, 08:29 PM
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To bjlv..Quick AC question

Hey, you've done a great job in your AC discussion. My complements to you.

I am going to try to replace the evaporator in my 93 Intrepid. Have done some study, and am well aware of the care in getting out all the moisture, adding the dryer LAST and so on.

Quick question, I am replacing the evap, the Orafrice tube, and Expansion valve...I believe they also refer to that as the "H" valve??? Can you explain what the orafrice tube is for, and where it exists in the system,

I am presently driving around with my dash half apart. Not pulling out the Evap/core housing till the weekend. Thanks in advance.

-dave
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post #83 of 242 (permalink) Old 05-28-2004, 02:31 PM
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there is no orface tube on these cars. There is a expansion valve instead. The location of it is in the engine bay where the two lines come to the firewall on the passenger side. Depending on the nature of your failure it may not be necessary to replace it, and since it does not require the disassembley of the dash to replace you may just want to leave it alone.

Let us know about how long the job took and the difficulty...
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post #84 of 242 (permalink) Old 05-28-2004, 09:29 PM
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Thanks Bjlv

Thanks buddy. Well, since the evap appears to be bad, might as well replace all the componets associated with it.. Again, when the AC ran for the ONE day after a recharge, there was a solvent type smell in the passenger compartment...Just like the last time the evap failed, maybe 5 years ago...

I will take some photos along the way to catalog the job. I love this car, so despite some headaches, It is a labor of love, and I want to learn new things. i'll post them here when finished.

regards,

-Dave
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post #85 of 242 (permalink) Old 05-30-2004, 10:54 PM
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in all likely hood the evaporator failed becuase of acid build up in the system from water. Did you replace the reciever drier last time?

At any rate you should...and keep the lines you do pull plugged up during the job. Do the drier last and pull a long long long deep vacuum on the system. If you can..when you pull the vacumm run the engine to heat the engine bay up...this will help to boil off water in the system.

Last edited by bjlv; 05-30-2004 at 11:03 PM.
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post #86 of 242 (permalink) Old 05-31-2004, 12:27 AM
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Day one... Evap replacement

hey there friend..

Going back over my records... When the compressor LAST seized, I recall they did NOT replace the dryer unit. for reasons I cannot recall. The evap was replaced prior to that failure. Maybe 5 years ago.

Ok, so far so good. Spent the day removing the dash. and the AC/Heat plenium box.
The hardest part?.. Draining the coolant, and removing the hoses from the heater core. A real knuckle banger The PetCock on the radiator is a bitch to open due to location. Removing the line to the condensor helped, as was the removal of the compressor belt.

A Trick for future use...To hold up the dash, I grabbed what I could.... I had 1000 feet of cat 5 data cable in the shed...I cut off two pieces and lassoed the dash with the cord, using the visor hardware as an anchor. Unplugging all electrical harness' under the dash is essential, plus removal of the ground strap, and the hardware at the front of the center console...you can pull the dash back toward the seat, and just let it hang.

Once the three nuts on the firewall are removed, the torx studs removed from the expansion valve, then hoses disconnected, the box comes out easily. The tools to remove the hoses came from autozone, something like 8 bucks for the set of four.

Once you separate the plenium box with the many screws that hold it together, the damage to the evap is evident, at the bottom, in fact, the dye in the refigerant that leaked out coagulated at the condensation drain. I wiped it out the housing with soapy water, dried and then coated the plastic with armour all.

I actually have purchased the wrong Evap. The one I purchased is the Newer style, the one I need is the older style. The two look like they may be interchangeable, but the larger line up to the mounting flange of the expansion valve, is fabricated further away on the newer style. Which is called the "Serpantine" Newer sytel. So I gotta exchange for the old style. No biggie... That'll set me back a day due to the holiday...I'll just go rent a nice car for the interim.

And with the evap, they give you a bunch of o-rings.. that is cool.
And yes, I got a new dryer.. I'll put it in last!

Ok, as per your suggestion Bjlv.. I'll run the engine when I connect the vacumn pump. I take it you mean JUST the engine running for heat, and NOT with the AC compressor engaged??? I also have 8oz of pag 46 oil ..to pour into the evap..correct? And the pump is connected to the low side.. right?.. There are NO stupid questions..Right?? Wrong??. Whos on First??

Have a great Memorial Day, and thanks for your sage advice. I may try again to take pictures of the disassembly for those who may wish to try this. It is not so hard. Just takes some patience.

-dave
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post #87 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 07:10 PM
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Re: Day one... Evap replacement

Quote:
Originally posted by dskalish

Ok, as per your suggestion Bjlv.. I'll run the engine when I connect the vacumn pump. I take it you mean JUST the engine running for heat, and NOT with the AC compressor engaged??? I also have 8oz of pag 46 oil ..to pour into the evap..correct? And the pump is connected to the low side.. right?.. There are NO stupid questions..Right?? Wrong??. Whos on First??


-dave
My reply is a little late...sorry about that. I meant run the engine to get more heat in the engine bay which will help boil off water in the a/c system. When i went to get oil for my system they gave me PAG 100 which is a different viscousity. If you havent gotten it back together yet i would ring a dealer and double check which is right though.

8oz sounds like way too much to add to the system unless you have flushed the entire system. I have seen several specs for how much oil the entire system holds and the most common is 5oz. So if you have insufficient cooling from the system youll need to remove some of that oil.

Shouldnt matter what side you connect the vac to...its all connected together. Althoug when you charge it you need to be on the low side for safety

Stupid questions? no, i have yet to fix my a/c LOL I need a new suction line, drier, and to flush the whole thing. I just dont like having the down time with the car and all the work ;)
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post #88 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-14-2004, 09:42 PM
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So I was sitting in my car (96 ES with ATC) with the A/C on, and all of a sudden, it shut off. Hasn't turned on since. Checked the pressure, it's okay. Shorted the relay, and the clutch turned on, and cold air came out. Put it a new relay, but the clutch still didn't turn on. Messed with the transducer wires (it has the two-wire one), and the compressor still didn't turn.

So... what's my car's problem?

Thanks.
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post #89 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-14-2004, 10:16 PM
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Run the diagnostic on the ATC
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post #90 of 242 (permalink) Old 06-14-2004, 10:29 PM
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Ran the diags, no codes were returned.
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