oil leak under car - Page 2 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 08:32 PM
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http://m.northerntool.com/products/s...?hotline=false

These worked great for me and great to have around. Northern tools has coupons sometimes too.

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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 09:04 PM
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This won't work if you don't have your own welder, but you could weld a nut or bolt to the drain plug head. Don't get too much heat into the aluminum, and let it cool down close to ambient temperature before removing the plug - aluminum threads are known for breaking loose and spinning out with the plug when hot.

I meant to mention earlier that if you remove the pan (sounds like you won't), look for a steel ball and spring rolling around. They are parts of a check valve/flow restrictor inside the oil cooler return line and have been known to break loose.


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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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@adu1982 ,
Thanks. Trying to get a more immediate solution I admit, since I have all the parts here already. Where I am few parts exist (you have to order them all). It's the same with tools.

@peva ,
I will be taking the pan off, yes. I have to replace the rear main, and gasket. I'll be sure to be on the lookout for those.

I received all the parts mid-day today so I wasn't able to do much before other obligations. The other thing that I'm replacing is the oil cooler lines. Any tips for these please? I already have the one line loosened on the one end, it's getting in there on the bottom without having to remove everything. At the moment, that drain plug is holding everything up.

Headlights are out already too, because I'm replacing those since they take on water and have way too many issues, like haze and broken brackets. This makes some things easier.

Last edited by draconis; 07-25-2016 at 10:36 PM.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I managed to get the bulk of the work done, but will have to replace the oil pan later. So far it doesn't leak, but we'll see as time goes by. It was mainly those 2 hoses that were the issue, and improper torque done on the oil pan. So I torqued the pan to specs, and am now praying for that to do well for now until I get another oil pan on order. Those 2 hoses are a pain in the butt (lol). The one that traverses around the back side of the engine and underneath was rather "fun" to loosen to remove the old one and tighten the new one at 1/8" at a time. That took a bit, but was so worth it. It's a lot easier when you remove the fan shroud to get to the other one. I plan to go to a shop to get the old plug removed. Let them deal with that.

Thanks for everything so far @peva and @adu1982 .
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 12:57 AM
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If I understood correctly, you're going to replace the rear main seal? You realize you'll have to separate the engine and tranny and remove either the engine or tranny or both to be able to R&R the rear main seal? Can't do it by just dropping the pan.
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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@peva ,
Yes, I'm aware. I have that part in hand, but it's on hold for the moment. You have to remove part of the suspension on this car, just to get to 2 bolts of the oil pan. When I realized that this required putting it on jacks or a lift, that's when I decided to "admit defeat" for now. I'll have to get the pan, gasket, and rear main done at a shop--due to them being better equipped than I am. If I had a lift or a "safer" way of doing this, then I'd be all over it.
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draconis View Post
...I'll have to get the pan, gasket, and rear main done at a shop--due to them being better equipped than I am...
That being the case, when you take it to them, I'd print out the bit in the FSM about the torqueing sequence on the structural collar as you explain to them of the potential for cracking the pan due to bolts being at 90 to each other if the proper sequence is not followed. You run the risk of their taking offense at you "telling them how to do their job", but if they put their pride over your wanting to be sure they don't inadvertently do expensive damage to your car, they're not the people you want to have working on it anyway. It's the kind of information that is specific to our vehicles and not obvious unless it is pointed out (hence why you're doing so), and they should be objective enough to take it that way.


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