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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
But the PCV valve itself needs to be replaced. On that particular part, I recommend aftermarket - I've seen problems on the OEM one for these cars.
Do you have a specific brand that you would recommend? Autozone has one on their website that says it will fit my vehicle... its like 5 bucks. They also have a bunch of 'not vehicle specific' valves.

My wife is going to kill me if I keep ordering stuff for this car lol. Fortunately, she understands the importance of maintaining vehicles. Yet, she's ignorant enough about vehicles that I can occasionally slip something in that I 'want' and she goes with it
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 02:13 AM
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Truth be known, I suspect the aftermarket brands package whatever PCV valve they can contract that month for the best price and still meet whatever their minimum quality standards are. I would go with Purolator - they are commonly available and I would expect their minimum standards to be higher than some of the store brands, but nothing's a sure bet in aftermarket.

Check out this thread to see what I'm talking about with the OEM PCV valve: https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/18-gene...sign-flaw.html

They may have fixed the problem, but frankly, I wouldn't be surprised if they haven't. I'm not saying don't try the OEM PCV valve, but if you do, inspect it for the latching problem that I describe in that thread. If you can't make it latch up, it should be OK.


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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the long delay, I've been afraid to say anything. Replaced the thermostat, housing, and gasket. No more anti-freeze leaks. Haven't lost a single drip of antifreeze.

Oil is still a problem but definitely cheaper to replace. Considering some crud I found while changing the water pump, I'm okay with having to dump some fresh oil in her every few days for a while. I did discover some leak from the main seal so I'll have to pull that off again and do some more cleaning to maybe remove some more of the old RTV -- I swear I got it all but who knows, it was pretty thick.

I'll replace the valve cover gaskets one of these days because it is undoubtedly leaking from there as well.

Also, since replacing all that stuff, the car operates just over the mark that comes before the halfway mark (1/3rd?) and after a good deal of highway driving, then in town stop-and-go, it barely gets to what I used to consider normal operating temperature (just under halfway). I'm pretty sure this can't be a bad thing.

Thank you for all of your help!
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 05:44 PM
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3/8 is "normal" half is getting pretty hot. Anything above is bad news.


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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 04:09 AM
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You're welcome. Did you replace the front main seal?
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Yes the seal and gasket were replaced with fel pro during the timing chain swap.

Whoever did whatever they did before I bought the car used a ton of gasket maker instead of an actual gasket. It was sloppy but it worked, the only oil leak I had before the job was from the drain plug


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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Antifreeze and Oil Leak

Putting this here because I don't know if it's related or not. Just got out to take a break and noticed that my car has a halo.

Anyone know what would cause this?

Edit. I put some on my finger and it has no odor that my 10 years of smoking can detect. It also wouldn't burn (on my finger. Didn't try to light the ground on fire for fear of blowing up all the cars in the lot) so I don't think it's oil or gas. The ground was pretty wet from the snow melting though

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Last edited by JJerrell; 12-05-2016 at 11:55 AM.
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