99 Intrepid - Turn the ignition, click noise - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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99 Intrepid - Turn the ignition, click noise

Hello All;

OK, the following has been done to this car.
New Battery (Bought today at Advance)
However, after they left the house, my son called me and stated the car was doing the same thing.
Of which is: When you turn the ignition it clicks (click click click click...etc)
Or
It sounds like it is trying to start but does not start.


For my Ford Ranger, it was the Solenoid on the Side Wall (beside the battery)
However, I red that the Solenoid is only on the starter for these cars.

Any information on this would be great.
Wayne
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 09:17 PM
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If all ground and power connections are good (i.e., not corroded, clean, tight - if you re-work any connections, put light coating of axle grease on all metal surfaces before re-assembling) from battery to starter (including the connections at the pos. and neg. jump posts), then it is almost certain that the starter solenoid contacts need to be replaced (Victory Lap brand, complete with new plunger, on Amazon - less than $15), or you can spend a lot more on a complete inferior aftermarket rebuilt starter when all that's bad are the solenoid contacts.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Are you referring to this one.
Victory Lap ND-34SOL Solenoid Repair Kit
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 10:51 PM
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What happens to any lights when you're trying to start the car? Do they dim or turn off completely? If so most likely a bad/corroded connection. If the lights are unaffected then I would tend to look at the starter solenoid and rebuild it.

Easy way to check. Turn the headlights on and have someone watch them while trying to start. If they dim and almost turn off then it's a cable/connection problem.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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I sent the information over to my son.
Will find out the next time it happens.

When I changed the Battery, I also changed the Battery terminal Connectors as well.
The cables on the jump posts, they looked to be in good condition.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 12:19 AM
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Looks OK doesn't mean shit! Take them apart..clean them with a wire brush and install them again making sure they're properly tightened.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 01:17 AM
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Also, if it is the solenoid contacts, almost always, the problem will come and go because each time you actuate the solenoid, the plunger rotates slightly, and the wear points against the contacts move around. IOW, if you keep actuating the solenoid with the key, after a few times suddenly it will start. You might go a day or two with it operating OK or mostly OK, then it will mostly only click for a day or two - just very random operation, again due to the plunger, with areas of different amounts of pitting/wear around its ring of copper contact area, as it rotates a small amount with each actuation. As time goes on, the days of more clicking/less starting get more frequent and of longer duration, until you finally get stranded somewhere with it not starting no matter how many times you click it.

Yes ND-34SOL. (This is not a 2.7L engine, right?)

When checking for loose connections, don't forget the connection of the large power wire at the starter itself. That stud nut can get loose. But more often it's at the battery posts or the pos. jump post (but can be neg. jump post too).

Before putting a wrench to the nuts on the pos. jump post, disconnect the top wire at the neg. jump post. That's to prevent an almost certain dangerous short between wrench and surrounding grounded metal while whipping the wrench around on the pos. jump post. Also use two wrenches, one on each nut on the pos. jump post stud, to loosen/remove and tighten - with only one wrench, the stud will just rotate around rather than nuts loosening/tightening.

Like Ron said, disassemble and clean (with wire brush or sand paper/emory cloth) the contact surfaces of the three terminals on the jump post, apply grease, then re-assemble/tighten - again, wrench on both nuts to get really tight.

Also, for long-term reliability, remove your two connections at the battery posts, apply grease to all metal surfaces, and re-assemble - that will prevent corrosion problems 2 to 4 years down the road.


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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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@peva
Thank you very much for the very detailed information.
I like having that, over a single one-liner any day of the week.

You started if happening on occasion.
That is the issue they are having.
Talking with my son last night, he said that it does not happen at night.
That it mostly happens during the daytime.
And it is not all the time, but at random times.
Seems to happen more with my son driving, than his girlfriend.
Of which is a good thing. Do not like having women stranded.

He is coming over tomorrow, so I can drain and flush the water system.
I will check all the connections on top, and see what I find.

I am thinking it is more along the lines of the plunger.
Will post back with my findings.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I have tried to post since my last post, and the forum has not allowed me.
Hopefully this will go through.

When it is cool outside, they do not have an issue cranking the car.
When it is hot out, like it is today.
The car will not start.

This sounds to me, like an Alternator issue.
However, my son went by Advance Auto and they said that the Alternator tested as GOOD.

Any advice?
I am planning on do the Solenoid repair on it, on Tuesday.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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They just had it tested again at one Advance Auto, and with the new Battery.
They say that it is not get a charge.
WOULD that not mean, that the Alternator is not charging the battery?

They sent them over to another Advance to swap out the damn battery.
This issue started before the battery was swapped out.

But, I guess we will find out in a little while.
This is annoying.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Barron View Post
OK, I have tried to post since my last post, and the forum has not allowed me.
Hopefully this will go through.

When it is cool outside, they do not have an issue cranking the car.
When it is hot out, like it is today.
The car will not start.
The solenoid contact issue is temperature-dependent. The difference between worn out contacts making and not making is like a thousandths of an inch. The expansion and contraction of everything with different temperatures can make the difference between clickety-click and start.

This sounds to me, like an Alternator issue.
However, my son went by Advance Auto and they said that the Alternator tested as GOOD.
Alternator only charges the battery. After you shut the engine off, it's job is done. It either charged the battery or didn't. When you try to start it hours later, the alternator doesn't change anything from when you shut it off previously - it's all dependent on the juice being available from the battery and being able to get thru the wires to a good starter.

Any advice?
I am planning on do the Solenoid repair on it, on Tuesday.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Barron View Post
They just had it tested again at one Advance Auto, and with the new Battery.
They say that it is not get a charge.
WOULD that not mean, that the Alternator is not charging the battery?
*If* they tested it properly, yes. I can't tell if you/they mean that the battery is bad and won't accept a charge or if the alternator is not working or there is a bad connection between the alternator and the battery (such as a bad fusible link at the positive battery terminal). But the alternator not charging the battery doesn't necessarily mean the alternator itself is bad. The way to tell if the alternator is charging is to measure the voltage between jump posts with the engine running at 2000 rpm or higher. If it is between 13.5 and 14.5 volts, the alternator is working. If lower than 13.5, it is not (but, again, if it's not, then it doesn't necessarily mean a bad alternator). Frankly, I wouldn't do anything based on their test without verifying myself using a voltmeter. You don't want to replace the alternator unnecessarily. I'll take a working factory alternator with 150k miles on it over a brand new/rebuilt aftermarket alternator.

They sent them over to another Advance to swap out the damn battery.
This issue started before the battery was swapped out.

But, I guess we will find out in a little while.
This is annoying.
Many places will not R&R batteries in our cars due to their location.

If it starts reliably after you get it back, either the battery was bad, or there was a bad connection that they fixed (either on purpose, or inadvertently in the process of messing with the battery). Otherwise, my money is on bad solenoid contacts. (I'm guessing that the things I suggested in post no. 7 haven't been done.)
...

Last edited by peva; 04-23-2017 at 02:12 AM.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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The other Advance they went to, the woman refused to do a swap (I think it was because THEY would have had to do it, and it is a PAIN in the a** to get to that blasted battery. (thanks Dodge))

I told me son to wait until Monday, and take it down to the garage down the road, and let them test it.
Once he does that, and gets back with me on their findings, I will update the thread.

Now, Reason why I say I believe it is the Alternator.
My mother 2001 Ford Taurus was doing the same thing.
When it was cool out, the car would crank without an issue.
When it was hot out, the car would not crank and we would have to get a jump.

On a 60 degree day, the car did great. We stopped and started about 10 different times through-out the day.
Now.
2 Days later, the temp went up to 82.
That morning, no issues, it was nice out.
By afternoon, we had to get a jump 4 different times.
The last 2 locations, we did not shut off the car.

The next day, went to our friends Garage and they tested, and the Alternator was not putting out enough to keep the battery charged.
I ordered it and replaced it.

The issue my son and his girlfriend are having with "her" car, Is exactly like what we went through with my mothers car.
That is why I believe this is an Alternator issue.

Will have to wait until Monday to find out something.
Thanks Peva for your response.

Wayne
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 02:04 AM
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Again, the way to test the alternator is to measure voltage at the battery (or at the jump posts) with the engine running at 2000 rpm or above. 13.5 to 14.5 volts is good. Below 13.5 volts means the battery is not getting a charge from the alternator.

I have hesitated to mention the green fusible link going to your positive battery cable clamp because it adds one more thing to the list to check, and there are so many things that have been mentioned that haven't been checked yet. But the fusible link connects the alternator output to the battery. You said you replaced battery terminal connections. That would have involved making sure that green fusible link was connected. If it isn't connected or is connected poorly or is broken, corroded, or burnt in two, your alternator would not be able to charge the battery. But the real test is measuring the battery voltage with the engine running at 2000 rpm or above.

There are several possibilities, so a systematic process of elimination needs to be used to rule things in or out. Taking it to a shop is good if used instead of testing things yourself - generally best to do one or the other, and you are going the shop route.

Will be interested to hear what the shop says. Hopefully they know what they're doing so they can systematically work thru all the things mentioned rather than jump to conclusions.


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Last edited by peva; 04-23-2017 at 02:08 AM.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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@peva
>>> so many things that have been mentioned that haven't been checked yet

===
As I stated in my first post after a few days.
I could not post to this thread. There was something going on, and nothing would work.
The [Post quick reply] [Go Advanced]
Everything was not working.
I contacted the Admin of the site of which no reply.
And the site just started working again.
===

Now, with that stated.
I tried to post 2 videos on the 14th, of the car starting.
here they are again.
( cannot post URL's. So. go to youtube and paste these in to watch the videos)
watch?v=YSB169fHzYI
watch?v=812pfOqgOfo

The Jump Post.
I removed and cleaned them, they were FINE.

Everything has been checked accept removal of the Starter itself.
If it was not so blasted hard to get too, then it would have been removed it Thursday.

My son is going to the garage tomorrow to have them take a look at it.
If they say it is the starter Solenoid, then I will repair it. (I have the kit you mentioned, Peva)
If they say it is the Alternator, then I will replace that.
Either one of them, I do not care.
It will get replaced.

I will post back after I find out something on Monday.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 03:02 PM
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From the videos, the starter is spinning the engine, but it won't fully start and run.

In your OP, you said when you turn the ignition, it clicks. Are we talking about two different symptoms - sometimes the starter spins the engine, but it won't run, and other times, the starter won't turn, but you get a click? If so, there may be more than one cause. When you get the clicks, does it click in rapid succession while you hold the key to start, or is it a single click each time you turn the key to start?

Will wait to hear what the shop says. Hopefully they fix it.


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