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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot for this great help.

What are the differences between diesel and gasoline oil, is it only phosphorous percentage ?

If the engine runs very hot, would a 5W40 or 5W50 be better for that purpose ?

What about water, can I use standard cooling water ?
What model Champion or Bosh spark plugs can I use ?

For the EGR system, is it possible (technically) to redirect oil vapor to the atmosphere rather than into the intake ?

Louis
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 05:47 PM
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Hello! Welcome!
I also live in Europe, in Spain, which is your country?
Chrysler 300M is a nice car! I usually find part numbers using this site: https://www.factorymoparparts.net it is good to identify parts and find their part number, but can be some expensive to buy parts from Europe due to shipping costs. A similar site is https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com
I also recommend you to take a look at https://www.oscaro.es , this online shop does service to at least these countries: Spain, France, Belgique and Portugal (see the bottom of the page) and they have a lot of parts for our vehicles, they ship from Europe so it is usually less expensive than ordering to American shops.
You always can go to a local Fiat-Chrysler-Dodge dealer and ask for parts, they will sure be genuine parts but the usually also are expensive.
And another nice sites to buy parts are www.ebay.com and RockAuto but you will also have an additional cost by the shipping because parts usually comes from America.
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delorehal View Post
Thanks a lot for this great help.
If the engine runs very hot, would a 5W40 or 5W50 be better for that purpose ?
What about water, can I use standard cooling water ?
Chrysler recommends oil 5W30 syntetic, and for coolant, some G12 at 50% like this MOTUL Liquido anticongelante INUGEL LONG LIFE 50% G12 (ROSA) 5L | eBay
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-26-2017, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Hola,
Thanks for the links

Louis
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-26-2017, 05:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delorehal View Post
Thanks a lot for this great help.

What are the differences between diesel and gasoline oil, is it only phosphorous percentage ?
I’m not sure. There’s a forum devoted to discussing motor oil: www.bobistheoilguy.com
I’m sure that has been discussed there. That’s where I got the details on the Rotella T6.

Quote:
If the engine runs very hot, would a 5W40 or 5W50 be better for that purpose ?
The engineers have a reason for recommending the operating temperature viscosity (the second number of the viscosity spec.) that they do for a given engine, though I know the manufacturers skew their results towards the low viscosity side to help their federal fuel economy numbers, which is why I usually go one step in the higher viscosity direction, especially after the engine has some age on it.

Think of all the important things they consider in the recommended oil viscosity, like normal operating temperature lubrication protection and wear and fuel economy. There’s pretty much a bell curve on those two things - higher viscosity (within reason) is better for lubrication protection and wear, but worse for fuel economy. They are pressured to slightly sacrifice the protection and wear for slightly better fuel economy numbers due to government pressures. I put a higher priority on engine life, so I figure one step higher in normal operating temperature viscosity is putting things more like they really should be (for my personal priorities). But you can go too far in that direction too, and the tweaking of the viscosity I do is a guess with no data to tell me how far is too far in either direction. I doubt 50 operating temperature viscosity will do any damage - I just don’t want to get too close to that end of the scale without really knowing the technical details for the particular engine.

And of course the first number of the viscosity spec. can be low (like 5) for a synthetic as the oil is going to be more viscous at startup temperatures, and good flow takes priority at cold startup. 0 probably would work too, especially for a colder climate, but, again, there’s a balance to everything.

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What about water, can I use standard cooling water ?
I’m not familiar with G12 coolant - is that a European thing? Or maybe it’s a later improvement. In North America, Chrysler says G05, which Some Fords and Mercedes also use.
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What model Champion or Bosh spark plugs can I use ?
A lot of experience on the LH car forums says that the Champions are the sweet spot in spark plugs for the 2.7 engine, and NGK or Champion spark plugs are it for the the 3.2/3.5. Several people have attempted to get jiggy with spark plugs and almost always regret it. Usually other plugs just don’t run as well in our cars, but there have been more than one instance of electrodes breaking off into the combustion chamber on some of the Bosch plugs with the real thin ground electrode. Bosch may be an OK brand in general, but Bosch parts (spark plugs and engine sensors) and Chrysler engines just don’t play well together.

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For the EGR system, is it possible (technically) to redirect oil vapor to the atmosphere rather than into the intake ?
Do you mean PCV or do you mean EGR? If PCV, you need the intake vacuum of the PCV to actively pull exhaust gases and moisture. The crankcase would be a mess without PCV. If the use of oil concerns you, some people install a small oil trap (similar to oil and moisture traps used on compressed air systems) in the PCV hose. My experience says that if your PCV system is kept in good condition (PCV and crankcase vent hoses clean and not cracked, PCV valve clean and working properly), you don’t get oil usage. However, it’s not unusual for a 2.7 much above 100k miles (150km) to use oil heavily due to bad valve stem seals. More often than not, replacing the valve stem seals on a high km 2.7 eliminates the high oil usage.

Get the PCV system and valve stem seals in good shape, and there should be almost no oil usage. (Check that oil is not dripping from the oil pressure sensor - replace if leaking - use OEM only for that part.)


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-26-2017, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Peva,

I really appreciate your answers

Do you know what are the champion reference ? I readed on the link you provided me the Mopar reference SPRE10PMC5.

I just come back from Mercedes to buy the air filter and trans filter.
I asked the price for distribution kit.
The new pump come with a complete kit, price is 1090 euros with the accessory belt and tensionners.
To that price I may have to add 1000 or 1200 euros for the work (I don't know how much time is needed for this kind of work, but one hour cost 90 euros)

I wonder now why I bought this car knowing before all the problems related to the 2.7 dohc engine.
I liked this engine despite all these problems though, that probably why I bought this car.

Now I don't know what to do ?
I can't afford right now 2000/2500 euros for a car which only costed me 1300.
I wanted to use it for the weekend with my family so I need a reliable car.

The car has 179 000 km, so the water pump failure may occurs soon.
Shat should I do ?
- Drive it until the water pump goes and then disgard the car ?
- Wait to have the required money, but after the water pump, the trans may need to be replaced, then the struts, ....

I can't do the work myself.
Mercedes is too expensive right now, but they will use Mopar parts and if there is a mistake with the parts, it will be their problem.
Buying eBay parts which will fell in a couple of months or doesn't even adapt is not a good idea.

BTW, the Mercedes garage told me that there are two kits and that depends if the ECU has one or two connectors, any idea ?
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-27-2017, 05:13 AM
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The originally-specíed spark plug number was RE10PMC5. Iím not familiar with the SPRE10PMC5. Maybe an updated part, or the EU version? But itís the right plug. Thatís the single platinum plug. The RE10PMP5 is the same plug with dual platinum, though not sure what benefit the dual plat would give because the single plat has the platinum on the electrode that has the high wear on it due to the spark polarity.

For the timing chain set that comes with the cam sprockets, there were two PCMs used on our cars: SBEC (single board engine controller) - used thru 2001, and NGC (next generation controller) - used starting with 2002. The earlier (SBEC) PCM has 1 board and 2 connectors, and the later one (NGC) has 2 boards and 4 connectors. Thatís because they combined the TCM and the PCM into the later PCM.

The hole (tone) pattern is different on the cam tone wheel (on driverís side cam sprocket) and the flywheel (AKA flex wheel) between the SBEC and the NGC systems - so the difference in the timing kits for SBEC and NGC is a different tone wheel on the driverís side cam sprocket. Since your car is 2000, it takes the SBEC kit.

Quote:
...The car has 179 000 km, so the water pump failure may occurs soon.
[W]at should I do ?
- Drive it until the water pump goes and then disgard the car ?
- Wait to have the required money, but after the water pump, the trans may need to be replaced, then the struts, ...
Several years ago, I had the same decision to make. I decided to keep driving it until it failed, but it got to over 200kmiles (325km), and I decided I couldnít let that happen, and I put a new timing kit (the fine-pitch chain version), water pump, and oil pump in it at 207kmiles. (I didnít plan it that way, but that just happened to be the miles on it when I did it. Notice 207 is similar to 2.7 (2o7) - I thought maybe that was Godís sense of humor).

Anyway - Iím glad I did it because a few years later, the 3.2 engine in my Ď98 Concorde went bad (timing belt broke 5000 miles before the change interval). The body on the Ď99 Concorde with 2.7 was banged up and the paint clear coat was bad, so I scrapped the bad 3.2 engine and the bad Ď98 body, and put the 2.7 engine in the Ď98 body (which I had had a really nice paint job put on). The 2.7 is still my daily driver at about 280kmiles (450km) and runs absolutely perfectly.

About 4 years ago, I rebuilt the front end (all new KYB struts, strut mounts and bearings, control arms, tension struts, and bushings).


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-27-2017, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again Peva,
I will do the same, use it and change water pump asap.

BTW I like Intrepid and Concorde much better than the 300m, unfortunately they were not sold in Europe.
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