Steering wheel doesn't straighten out after a turn - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Steering wheel doesn't straighten out after a turn

My steering wheel doesn't straighten out after a turn, this happens sometimes, I think this more usually happens while turning the wheel while applying minor acceleration (driving inside a parking for instance). Do you know why this happens to me? which part or component is the responsible to make the steering wheel to return to centre by itself after making a turn?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Hello, I still experience this issue in my car, I asked about this behaviour to a mechanic, and he thinks that might be caused by a defective steering pump, giving less pressure than expected. Sincerely, I am sceptic with this diagnostic, what do you think about?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 04:55 PM
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Basic return is a function of the caster setting in the front end alignment. If you havent hit any curbs, gone off road etc that should still be ok. Always good to have the alignment checked to nake sure its in specs.

You could have binding up ball joints, outer tie rod ends or an issue with one of the strut plates at the top of the struts. They would check all of these with an alignment precheck. You can jack up the front end so the tires are off the ground and make sure the wheels turn all the way both directions without binding or high effort. Should be smooth.

Beyond that the valving in the steering rack controls a lot.Could be a bad rack. If you have good assist turning the steering wheel at a stop the pump is likely ok.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2018, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imanoljeeptek View Post
You can jack up the front end so the tires are off the ground and make sure the wheels turn all the way both directions without binding or high effort. Should be smooth
I already did it, and I didn't found any suspicious. But, the front alignment couldn't be done because it was impossible to turn or loosen the tie rod ends nuts, (they are very rusted).
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2018, 01:16 PM
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Those toe adjusting sleeves often are a problem. They are poorly designed with knurled grips. They get a little corroded and are hard to turn on the threads. This requires squeezing harder with pliers, which makes them bind even harder on the threads, the pliers slip on the knurled grips, stripping the knurled off, and it just gets worse and worse, and sometimes the sleeves break apart from being squeezed and twisted without rotating on the threads.

I recommend you replace the adjusting sleeves with the much better designed aftermarket ones. The aftermarket sleeves are of two designs: The first is just like the OEM sleeves with knurled grips; the second is a much-improved design where the grips are large hexes for positive grip by open-end or adjustable wrench. Each aftermarket company makes both types. Be sure to get the ones with the hexes.

Replace those (lube the threads of tie rods and adjuster sleeves with grease as you assemble to prevent future corrosion and binding), then go for your alignment. This would also be a good time to check the inner tie rod bushings and the outer tie rod ball joints for wear and replace if needed before the alignment. The inner tie rod bushings generally need to be replaced one to three times over the life of the vehicle (cause front wheel shake, accelerated tire wear, and sloppy steering), outer tie rods maybe never or once. You never need to replace the inner tie rod because there are no wear points on them.

Getting a good alignment may or may not fix the steering not returning to center, but is a must before going any further to fix the problem if the alignment doesnít fix it.

If caster is off, it is not adjustable by traditional methods, but there are ways to make some adjustment to it described in the FSM. It would be very unusual on these cars for the caster to be a problem, but anything is possible. The alignment may rule that out.

Do tires have any unusual wear patterns? You could try rotating them to different positions to see if the problem changes.

First step is new toe adjusting sleeves and alignment. Be sure they provide you with your complete alignment measurements, including front toe, camber, and caster, and rear toe and camber. If they donít agree to do that ahead of time, go somewhere else. We can help you interpret them and diagnose alignment problems if any.


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2018, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Peva, I already have a pair of new MEVOTECH inner tie rod, bought a year ago (some mechanic recommend me to replace them, but later he only replaced bushings, never returned to him). I really dude that splitting inner, outer and adjusting sleeve would be possible because the very much rusted they are, I surely will have to replace at least that three parts in each side of the car.
If I could separate (split) them, would you recommend keep the very rusted Mopar inner tie rods or replace them for new MEVOTECH ones? Is it a good idea to go with MEVOTECH also for adjusting sleeve and for outer tie rod ends?

Quote:
Be sure they provide you with your complete alignment measurements, including front toe, camber, and caster, and rear toe and camber. If they donít agree to do that ahead of time, go somewhere else.
I'd love to full understand and to can express and explain this to the mechanics or shops here in Spanish, I think that they never do all this stuff to do alignments here, they only use adjuster rods.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2018, 08:59 PM
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Try a good penetrating oil to get the tie rods separated from the adjuster sleeve. It may be easier to disconnect the inner tie rod and outer tie rod from the car and try to separate the from the adjuster sleeve on the bench.

For the inner tie rod, unless the threads or the end that hold the inner bushings are badly corroded, you would be able to re-use the old inner tie rod. But since you have the new ones, maybe go ahead and use them. As long as you get the adjusting sleeve with the large hex, they should be alright in any brand. But like I said, grease the threads when assembling to prevent corrosion and to keep them easy to adjust.

Because the life of ball joints is very much dependent on good manufacturing quality, I donít particularly recommend Mevotech for the outer tie rod. Iíve never used a Mevotech part, but I do not think they have a good reputation. They should be OK for the inner tie rod and adjusting sleeves because those parts do not wear..


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2018, 09:13 PM
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So what do you recommend for the Outer Tie Rod Bill? Which manufacturer?
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronbo View Post
So what do you recommend for the Outer Tie Rod Bill? Which manufacturer?
I’ve gotten good vibes from the NAPA and AC Delco 1st tier steering and suspension parts in the last few years. I call them “1st tier”, but by that, I mean they both seem to have two versions of any given part at two price levels - I go with the more expensive ones. AC Delco’s two tiers are called “Advantage” and “Professional”, with the Professional being the more expensive, better part.

When I rebuilt the front end of my ‘98 Concorde (my current DD) about 5 years ago, I used NAPA for the tension strut bushings and control arms at competitive prices, and they very much looked to be the OEM parts - have had no problems. I’ve seen some real junk in other brands of those two parts.

When I replaced all 3 steering links on my ‘85 F150 2 years ago, I used AC Delco Pro that I found at really good prices on eBay. Prices were so good that I was suspicious of a switcheroo with either the Advantage line or another brand.

Saw on the AC Delco site that they have an anti-counterfeit team, so I sent them clear close-up photos of the ball joints and other tooling marks on the parts, thinking probably that I’d never hear from them, but was pleasantly surprised when they came back with some questions, like where did I get them - and I told them. About a week later they informed me that after studying the photos, they concluded that the parts were genuine AC Delco Professional line parts. I was impressed that they seemed to put a genuine effort into vetting the parts for a “nobody” customer.

With his being in Spain, I don’t know what brands our OP, SeŮor EagleScreen, has ready access to. I do see that Rock Auto has the AC DELCO Pros of the outer tie rods @$28. NAPA’s two tiers are at $17 and $56 - ouch!! I don’t Know if that’s typical of their “better” version of their parts these days or not. I didn’t check eBay.


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Last edited by peva; 02-25-2018 at 02:10 AM. Reason: Typos
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-14-2018, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Hello friends!
I finally gone with MEVOTECH for all (inner and outer tie-rod ends, hex nut andjusting slieves, and also bushings). The mechanic said that they seem to be a good quality tie-rod ends when he saw them.
My old mechanic didn't remove inner tie-rod ends to install new bushings, he cut them, set them, and leaved them glued with glue! and as you can expect, the glue were gone and bushings were not well fixed. By these kind of things he is my old mechanic.
After replaced all this stuff and before doing the alignment, I was suffering of this problem (Steering wheel doesn't straighten out after a turn) much than ever before, but after doing the alignment, now the steering works very well and smooth, and I almost can't expecience this issue, so I think it was related to bad alignment, bad bushings, or both.
My car is racing nice again!
Thanks you one more time for your apreciated help.
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