rear strut replacement issues - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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rear strut replacement issues

I'm in the process of replacing the rear struts on a 99 trep. FSM as well as Haynes indicate I need to remove the ABS sensor. Removed the mounting bolt, and I can't seem to get either sensors to move at all. I don't want to break them, but I'm about to take a chance so I can get the job done.

Any suggestions?

Sam
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 07:57 AM
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No need to remove the ABS sensor, likely it is seized into the hub, and you will destroy it trying to get it out. Detach the wire clips that secure the wire to the suspension on its way to the plug, so there is some movement available in the wire, and it will give you plenty of room for movement to get the strut out.
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Daytrepper, that is where I was headed. I have the drives side detached and then came breakfast time. Now, back to work.

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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 08:41 AM
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Good luck. Let us know if you have any other problems. You've got the SC advantage of little to no rust, so shouldnt be a huge deal fighting the strut pinch bolt.
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, SC (unless you are on the coast) is not a rust belt state. However, I haven't owned the car since it was new.

As far as other problems, well, having problems with step 12 "(12) Remove the lateral links from the spindle (Fig. 22). This requires the removal of one long bolt attaching both links to the spindle (Fig. 22)."

I think that bolt is welded to the spindle. I haven't been able to budge it (inpact wrench, breaker bar with 3 foot cheater), so I'm gonna soak with PB blaster and let it soak for a while then try again.

Thanks for the response.


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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
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Yes, SC (unless you are on the coast) is not a rust belt state. However, I haven't owned the car since it was new.

As far as other problems, well, having problems with step 12 "(12) Remove the lateral links from the spindle (Fig. 22). This requires the removal of one long bolt attaching both links to the spindle (Fig. 22)."

I think that bolt is welded to the spindle. I haven't been able to budge it (inpact wrench, breaker bar with 3 foot cheater), so I'm gonna soak with PB blaster and let it soak for a while then try again.

Thanks for the response.


Sam
Hey Sam,

When you get done please post your resolution, I curious to see what your resolution is. I just changed my front struts and the drivers side sway bar link were seized onto the strut. My solution was a grinder with a metal cutting blade... Also the hex tip on the strut rod stripped and the nut on it was also seized so i used a rotary tool with a diamond tip and a chizel remov the nut. This was not fun

George
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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George, I hate to sound like a wimp, but I'm gonna put that job off for now. I am relatively certain that the thru bolt will break and not break free. After flailing away with a sledge hammer, I decided to put the job on hold for now. I was really running out of time, and need to get the vehicle back in service.

Before I start next time, I'll line up replacement spindles and thru bolts cause I know they aren't comming out intact.

I did get the front done which was the start of the mess. I was fortunate because if went relatively smoothe.

Sam
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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Smile

OK, now you can call me a whimp. I knew the thru bolt was going to break, and didn't really have the time to fix it. So, I hired a local guy to break it then fix it for me. He did a good job putting in the struts and the spring isolators I bought.

The rattle I have had in the rear end for quite a while now is gone. Probably a dried out bushing, or the spring isolators that had very little meat left on them.

Sam
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 10:22 PM
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I was not able to move that big ass bolt either,, so I had a mechanic do my rear struts. He couldn't get it to move at all, so he dropped the lateral links from the other end. Gave him enough room to get to the pinch bolts, one of which broke! He was able to grind a notch into the broken part and use a flat head and air to get it out. What a pain in the ass design.
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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 11:38 PM
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Sounds like time for the hot wrench and back to
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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 10:49 PM
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Here's something you might find interesting : the mechanics at the local Chrysler dealer say they never remove this 14" thru bolt when changing struts.

Since I'm about to replace all my struts, and having read the previous posts in this thread, I figured I'd get ahead of the game and just order the bolts before I even got started. What got my attention was when the parts guy at the Chrysler dealer said that in all his years at the dealership, he'd never ordered one of these bolts. "Hmmm. That means the mechanics are successful in getting them off ?". The guy shrugs and says they must get them off because none of them have ever come and asked for one. In walks one of the mechanics and the parts guy asks him about this 14" bolt and shows him the drawing on the screen. Mechanic says that he's never once had to remove that bolt to replace a rear strut on an Intrepid. And he says they probably do struts on 2 or 3 dozen Intrepids per year !! He says there's enough "articulation" in the rear suspension that it's not necessary to completely drop the rear knuckle.

So I'm going to try it as the Chrysler mechanic suggested. Good thing too because those bolts in Canada (where I am) - are 50 BUCKS each !! And 5 bucks for the nuts. With 13% tax, that comes to $135 for two bolts and two nuts.
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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-26-2009, 08:00 PM
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nothing is cheaper in Canada.
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-26-2009, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
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nothing is cheaper in Canada.
Nothing is cheaper in canada... your comment should have been everything is ridiculous in Canada, that is expensive....
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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-27-2009, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
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Nothing is cheaper in canada... your comment should have been everything is ridiculous in Canada, that is expensive....
You're both absolutely right. Let me give you another example of the outrageous difference between US and Canada : the price of the Monroe Quick Struts themselves.

For the Intrepid the best price I could find for the Quick Struts was $385 each. For 4 of them with the 13% tax = $1740. That's just the struts - no installation. Canadian Tire Sale pricing doesn't count because they don't stock them for the Intrepid (I've tried 3 times in the last year during their 25% Off sales).

Typical installation is $285 per pair plus tax. So for all 4 the installation cost is $644.

Total for the whole thing in Ontario, Canada = $2384.

From Rock Auto in the US, total cost for all 4 Quick Struts was $688 delivered to my Niagara Falls, NY pick-up address. With the currency exchange plus the 13% sales tax the bastards at the border make us pay, my cost was $816 (Canadian $) for all 4 Quick Struts. Less than half the cost of buying them in Canada ($1740).

Rear Through Bolts : $56.50 each Canada. $20.40 Rock Auto (US).

Front Sway bar links : $64.61 each Canada, About $30 Rock Auto (US)

Moog Problem Solver Tie Rod adjusters : about $55 each Canada. About $26 Rock Auto (US).

And it goes on and on.....

Last edited by va3ux; 09-27-2009 at 09:09 AM.
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 08:39 AM
 
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I just got done changing the rear struts on my 99 Concorde ( similar to a Intrepid I would think ) and I too had trouble getting that long bolt out. I used my propane torch ( actually it has a MAP gas tank on it instead of propane ) and heated the spindle in the area where the bolt passes through and also soaked it in WD-40 it took about a 1/2 hr but it finally came out. There was a ton of rust on the bolt and in the bolt hole so I cleaned it out and smeared a bit of grease on the bolt when I put it back together.



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