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1999 heater resistor X3

1K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  peva 
#1 · (Edited)
bought a OEM this time and lasted 2 months.This has been an ongoing problem with the system The heater never worked properly from when I bought this 99 plain jane until I changed the BCM.It had a 2002 BCM in it how the car run so good who knows ??What a learning curve for an old guy that hasn't turned a wrench for 30 years.So with all the great help I found here and your patience the suggestion seems to be to change the blower fan??
well how difficult will this be in a garage with no heat as I live in ON Canada.Do you have any tips or instructions I would appreciate.
A big thanks for all the help.
1999 base model 2.7 manual control heater AC
 
#2 ·
ho heat

well changed the antifreeze and heater worked for two days and now no heat
cant bleed the top housing because it just spins in a brass push in insert
Tried forcing liquid down heater hoses and few other things
Can this really be air lock or is it something else??
would apreciate help heading north in 2 days on 2000 mile trip
 
#3 ·
I can’t remember if there are any particular tips on replacing the blower motor.

As far as the bleeder base spinning in the housing, it’s just a matter of time before it blows. Usually it gives some warning by seeping coolant and leaving dried coolant residue on the housing (wouldn’t be surprised if you’re already seeing that). If you replace it, don’t use the aftermarket (Dorman or any other brand).

You should buy the OEM housing and metal pipe. That later design has the bleeder valve seat welded into the metal pipe rather than molded into the plastic housing.

To replace the housing you have to remove or loosen the bolts and raise the plenum. My advice is to remove the plenum, clean dirt and grit from the top of the lower intake and underside of the plenum, and replace the plenum gaskets (inexpensive - use OEM or Felpro). If you just raise the plenum, you risk the inevitably accumulated dirt and grit slipping over into the gasket area and leaking air - then you’ve got to do it all over again with full removal.

Sorry to lay all that on you, but my advice is either do it right or don’t put the effort into it and still have problems. It’s not all that bad to do, but it’s not a trivial task.
 
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#4 ·
I cant thank you and Ronbo enough for your expert and sound advice.It is always priceless and right on.
So in the end for some freak reason after changeing the anti freeze the blend actuator froze in the cold position thus leading me to the bleeding of air thinking it could be an air lock in the heater core. You are right did seep a bit while working on it but was able to stop it with some gentle taps on the plastic with punch and chisel.Since I need to leave on a trip tomorrow I am going to try JB weld over the top and say a Hail Mary.I will change the actuator blower motor and resistor.
All that said I am starting to believe this 99 had a 2004 motor droped into it before I got it because all this started from when I bought it and the heater never worked properly until I finally put a 99 BCM in it.
You guys are truly Make Intrepids Great Again
 
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