heater temp sticks and only comes out defrost - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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heater temp sticks and only comes out defrost

Hello all.

I got a 2000 Intrepid this January. The fan will turn op and down as it should, the vents are just stuck to defrost and the heat/cool controls like to get stuck, usually on full hot.

Any typical sources of failure I should look for?

It could be two unrelated failures also, when I bought the car it all worked. After a couple days of playing with things I bet its been on defrost/feet 99% of the time and I don't fool with the temp controls much.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 02:22 PM
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My 2001 RT with only 60k miles had a similar issue.
Heat was only coming out the front panel vents.
No defrost and no floor.

I replaced the mode door actuator and while I was in there
I also replaced the blend door actuator.

The mode door actuator is just behind and below the radio.
The blend door actuator is just about dead center of the tranny hump, just above the carpet (very, very uncomfortable to get to)

I removed quite a bit to get to them.

There is a service manual on this site under Second Generation, general service information
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 06:04 PM
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Do you have Manual or Automatic Temp Controls? Automatic has a digital display.

There's a Diagnostic test procedure for each version that can help you narrow down which component(s) are causing problems.

As TGS indicates above most likely a Mode Door Actuator. Could be something else therefore running the diagnostics would pinpoint the problem.

https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/113-se...ble-codes.html
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you both.

I have the manual controlls. I pulled the codes and got AC 49 and AC 24.

It seemed to do some kind of physical system movement during the test. Now I have had temp control for a day but it still just blows out the defrost.

There are no obviously broken vacuum lines but I'm bad at finding those. The car also does this presumably unrelated thing more often now where at first when I go to start it just a click, then I take it out of park and put it back in and all is fine for a dozen trial starts.
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 11:39 AM
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There aren't any vacuum lines used in the HVAC control. It's all electrical.

Those two codes point to a Mode Door Actuater failure and you'll need to replace it as Terry talked about in the 2nd post.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
...The car also does this presumably unrelated thing more often now where at first when I go to start it just a click, then I take it out of park and put it back in and all is fine for a dozen trial starts.
You could need to adjust the shifter cable, or it could be a starter problem. Which engine do you have? The 3.2/3.5 starter is more prone to the starter click problem (the 2.7 not so much).

Is your shifter hard to move? It should be very easy to move between positions, with the detent being 95% of the resistance to motion. The earlier 2nd gen. years had a shifter cable design problem where they would start corroding internally and binding up. But if itís moving easily, thatís not your problem, but it still could need adjusting.


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 03:58 PM
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Mode door actuator is a little easier to get to but still have to remove many other parts to get to it.
Much more comfortable when the actuators are working!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips.

Far as updates.

The only code I get now is AC 49. Temp control was splendid today, still just blows out the defrost.

Hunting down the code that means CONTROL MODE DOOR INPUT SHORTED TO BATTERY. Is that usually the Mode Door Actuator or are there any likely shorts.

Between that and the no start until I move the shifter I had the charging system checked for permanent drains. The auto parts store reported I have a .3 Amp drain, the battery "needs charged" despite me driving plenty, they report the alternator works great as does the starter.

My plan is to get the battery out, which apparently I don't need to take the wheel well apart to do, check the connections for corrosion, charge the battery and maybe toss a new battery in if it still shows "needs charged".
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 12:48 PM
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Thatís 10 times the normal drain. It may be the battery itself having an internal short. But that wouldnít explain the controls issues, unless itís bad enough to be pulling system voltage down. Have you measured system voltage with and without engine running?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thatís 10 times the normal drain. It may be the battery itself having an internal short. But that wouldnít explain the controls issues, unless itís bad enough to be pulling system voltage down. Have you measured system voltage with and without engine running?
Ah, back at it. I have a couple cars and seem prone to just put up with things.

Off it read 12.11 volts, running nothing on 13.9's to 14.0's. Those sound like old 1/4 times lol.

On a side note, what is the Mode Door part number? I see a Doorman 604-007 at Advance (I can't link yet), and does Rock auto have it or do you all have a favored brand?
post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 07:15 PM
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Look up this Tsb 240200 here on web site. I am having the same problem,I even changed the BCM with no difference. I narrowed it down to the flap hitting the housing(inside of box). The one right above the hump.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 07:38 PM
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Look up this Tsb 240200 here on web site. I am having the same problem,I even changed the BCM with no difference. I narrowed it down to the flap hitting the housing(inside of box). The one right above the hump.
Give it a rest. Your instance is probably one in a Billion.

If you want to verify...pull your dash and the HVAC box and replace it. Unless you do that it;s speculation.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 09:12 AM
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There are past threads about the Dorman actuators not working, but you can make a good unit by combining certain parts from the failed factory actuator with the other parts from a DOA Dorman one. I wouldn’t be surprised if other aftermarket brands are different-labeled crappy Dorman ones, but I don’t know that for a fact.

EDIT: See post no. 16 here about making a good actuator out of bad factory one and a DOA aftermarket/Dorman one: https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/18-gen...-exists-2.html


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Last edited by peva; 03-31-2019 at 09:54 AM.
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