DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner

help on a 2004 not starting

2K views 34 replies 5 participants last post by  jreefer6 
#1 ·
ok i got given a 2004 dodge intrepid 2.7 litter. the car was parked for two years needed the rack and tie rods so on front end. i got the car wanted to get it started before doing the work on it put new battery,starter,cam and crank sensers still noting car will crank but doesnt even seem like it even wants to start . pretty sure im not getting any spark.any ideas where to look thanks.
 
#2 ·
#6 ·
*engine cranks does not start

possible causes
fuel filter/pressure regulator (high)
fuel filter/pressure regulator defective (high)
fuel pump capacity (volume) out of specs
fuel system disabled by vtss/skim
powertrain fuses open
secondary indicators present
engine mechanical problem
high resistance in the fuel pump relay output circuit
fuel pump relay output circuit open
fused b+ circuit to fuel pump relay open/high resistance
open/high resistance in the fuel pump ground circuit
fuel pump inlet strainer plugged
high resistance in the fuel pump ground circuit
fuel pump module
fuel pump relay
kinked/restricted fuel supply line
fuel pump module jumper harness defective
no ckp sensor signal when cranking engine
fuel pump module
no cmp sensor signal when cranking engine
ckp & cmp sensors out of sync
 
#7 ·
alright so what should i be looking for did the cam crank new stater new battery getting fuel got power to fuse box all fuses look good.what is best next step car ran good before it was parked. could the timing belt go bad well it sat for two years pretty sure im not just getting spark
 
#11 · (Edited)
Is sensor power good? The engine sensors share a common 5 volt sensor power bus (from the PCM). That can get pulled down by one bad sensor - a.c. pressure transducer is famous for that - try disconnecting it to see if it will start then - but also measure the sensor power wire at any sensor and see if you have 5 volts.

Any codes???

Also this v v v
 
#12 ·
Can you clear some things up?

Sounds like this is a car bought without seeing it run? It was sitting 2 years before you bought it? Was the car running before it was "parked"? Or did you just take the Sellers word?

It's a possibility if it was sitting that long that there might be rodent damage to the wiring. Not saying there is...but it's a possibility.

Having a "Test Light" is fine for certain testing but you need a DVOM for a lot of the things Peva is asking about. DVOM=Digital Volt Ohm Meter. You don't need a super expensive one but you need to know how to use it properly for test readings.

Like Peva said:
1) Check all fuses in the PDC=Power Distribution Center under the hood for continuity with a meter. As he said just visually inspecting them isn't enough.
2) Need to verify that you have the 5 volts DC at the sensors. It comes from the PCM. If not present then wiring is fooked or the PCM is fooked.

Power to the coils is great but it's the PCM that provides the ground to fire the spark plugs. Again that 5 volts for the sensors is critical.

So give us some answers to these questions???
 
#17 ·
I was going to ask the same but I was more interested in the "Mystery" wire that caused the No Start condition first! heh
 
#21 · (Edited)
...do u have any ideas way the starter would stay connected to the flywheel like could it be a bad shim or something else im lost. could it be just a bad starter.
I’m thinking bad starter capstan, but I’m not an expert on that. Hopefully someone who is will come along.

EDIT: It could also be starter relay sticking closed. Can you tell if the starter motor is actually being electrically energized or if it’s just mechanically hung up (i.e., voltage not being applied to starter while still engaged with flywheel)? You might try pulling the starter fuse or relay when it’s in this condition to see if it then disengages. If you do that and it stays engaged, then it’s a mechanical issue, and again, I’m thinking bad capstan. Or swap starter relay and see if problem goes away. Check that starter mounting bolts are tight.
 
#22 · (Edited)
For possible quick fix, you could just hit the starter a few times to see if it is "mechanically hung"* as Peva says. Light taps with a hammer, and/or more solid whacks with a block of wood. The starter isn't much fun to remove and this _might_ "fix" it.

If that doesn't fix it, then go with Peva's tests shown just above.

For a more complete fix, remove it and bench test it.

* Insert your favorite comment here...
 
#23 · (Edited)
For possible quick fix, you could just hit the starter a few times to see if it is "mechanically hung"* as Peva says. Light taps with a hammer, and/or more solid whacks with a block of wood. The starter isn't much fun to remove and this _might_ "fix" it.

If that doesn't fix it, then go with Peva's tests shown just above.

For a more complete fix, remove it and bench test it.

* Insert your favorite comment here...
 
#28 ·
. I suggest buying a Haynes Manual for your car. They can be found on eBay cheap. Folks on this forum are always glad to help but a little studying of a repair manual will speed up the process. And help clarify terminology and such. Also YouTube has videos demonstrating things like checking timing on the 2.7 engine. I’m not familiar enough with that series engine to answer your question about checking timing.
 
#25 · (Edited)
The 2.7L doesn't have a Timing Belt...it has a Timing Chain. There's no specified interval for the chain replacement.

How many miles are on the car? Your biggest worry should be the Water Pump which is internal to the engine and driven by the timing chain. One of the biggest failures in the 2.7L is the water pump having the bearings fail and putting slack in the chain. Or leaking internally and ruining the crankshaft bearings, etc.
 
#29 ·
new shims were done to the starter and the noise stopped.and sorry i know its a timing chain not belt type o. the car has 101.000 miles on it and not trying to check timing just to see if chain is good or if it needs done.car starts up great hearing a noise from the harmonic balancer just dont want to buy that and it be the chain.thanks again
 
#30 · (Edited)
If the noise is chain related, it would most likely be from a bad (collapsed) tensioner causing chain slack, resulting in the tensioner arm clacking back and forth from camshaft cogging.

Minor complaint: Please use proper punctuation and capitalization in your posts. Not being a grammar Nazi - it just makes reading easier *and*, without it, the meaning of what you are trying to say can sometimes be unclear.

You say the “harmonic balancer seems to be jumping around a little”. If it just has a consistent wobble as you view it from above with engine idling, that can be normal. If the wobble is less than, say, 1/16”, then it’s probably OK. If wobble is more than 1/8”, then it may be tilted.

The outer ring of the pulley is press-fitted onto a thick rubber band around the hub of the pulley (that gives the pulley it’s “damping” properties) - the outer ring (grooved for the accessory belts) should stay fairly straight, but if it slips so that it has a tilt/wobble to it, it should be replaced. Usually if that happens (slips one time or gradually slips over time) it has a constant wobble while you’re watching it, but if it actually gets loose on the rubber band and starts moving around, you will see the amount of wobble change a lot. That’s worse than a constant wobble, and it could come apart (possibly doing damage).

But again, a minor wobble 1/16” or less is normal. Between 1/16 and 1/8” wobble is a grey area. I wouldn’t think the pulley would make noise unless it was really loose and changing its wobble.

But if you’re hearing what I would describe as a “clacking” noise, I would suspect a bad chain tensioner (again, the noise would be from the chain tensioner arm slapping back and forth from cam cogging at certain engine speeds) - that can eventually wreck things if the chain were to slip teeth.

If your water pump bearings are getting ready to go (trying to lock up, or pump shaft wobbling), I don’t know if it would make noise either from the pump itself or it’s effect on the chain.
 
#31 · (Edited)
If you are hearing a more or less constant rumble noise, that could be one of the accessory belt tensioner pulley bearings - they do wear out. If so, replace the whole pulley. Could also be a.c. compressor clutch bearing, but failure of that is more rare. If compressor clutch bearing gets really bad with a lot of play, the compressor pulley can make a lot of noise rubbing against the body of the compressor.
 
#33 ·
alright guys the promblem im having is with the starter just took the new one out again was burning up when i tried to start the car battery drained quick and cables got hot is there a ground on the starter itself the car was missing the center bolt to the starter i was looking at another post is there a ground that goes to the middle bolt on the starter or what could cause the starter to go bad drove the car for 105 miles today was shuting it off and on with no promblem till i got to work any ideas thatnks
 
#35 ·
Yea sorry. i was driving the car for work was driving great.. Went in side for 20 30 mins left lights on went to start it woulnt start. The starter started to smoke if the key was held. Is there a ground wire where the starter goes? Was missing the center bolt on the starter when i got the car just put in a bolt that worked.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top