2000 Intrepid 2.7L engine replaced, problem, questions? - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-29-2005, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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Question 2000 Intrepid 2.7L engine replaced, problem, questions?

I posted some of these things in another forum and just joined this one, so I would like to know what you guys think. What follows in quotes is only my comments from posts in another forum:

"I started hearing some knocking coming from my engine last week and a buddy of mine at work said it's probably bad gas. So I put some Techron Fuel System Cleaner in it and then when I was done with that tank and filled it up with Premium from a different station and company and then used Fuel Injection Cleaner with that tank. There is about 1/2 tank left of the second ("good gas") tank and it still knocks. Actually, it only knocks when I accelerate too fast and has a nasty quick sound when I start the car."

"I have about 30,000 miles left on the warranty from CarMax that should cover it. I'm taking it to CarMax for an oil change on Monday and will ask them to check it out (will not tell them about adding the cleaners to the gas of course). I'd like to save the engine if I can and I think they might already be using synthetic 10W30 in it for the oil changes. Yes, I change the oil every 3,000 miles regularly. Any suggestions?"

"Been using 10W30 since I bought it. Maybe I could ask about synthetic for an extra cost as long as it doesn't void my warranty. Of course, at this point it probably doesn't matter. I just hope the engine can be saved and they pay for it under warranty or just cut me a deal on a new car. This sucks because 2 years ago I wanted the 3.5L, but I also wanted burgundy. I got burgundy, but settled for the 2.7L and it looks like I'm going to pay for it now."

"What would happen if I switched to Synthetic Mobil 1 right now? Would the knocking stop or does it sound like a major engine overhaul or at least something close to that to get the gum out?"

"OK guys, the car is at Carmax and they said they can use Synthetic Mobil 1 and said that they think it only comes in 5W30 and 10W40, but I just checked the web site and it looks like it does come in 10W30. According to some of those links, it looks like I need 10W30. If they come back and say all they have is 5W30 or 10W40, what should I do?"

"OK, I don't know much about cars, but here's some bad news and good news. The bad news is the engine has heavily-scoured connecting rod bearings and heavily-scoured crankshaft (many shavings in oil pan) and Carmax says the whole engine needs replacing. If it's that bad at the bottom, then the rest of the engine is probably shot. The good news is he thinks the warranty should cover it as I change my oil every 3,000 miles (Carmax has a record of this). An insurance adjuster is coming out tomorrow morning and they think they can replace the engine before weeks end!!!"

"They just told me today the rebuilt long block and they would cover everything. Looking like they will get the car back to me on Friday. No word on the warranty yet; I forgot to ask again."

"Warranty on new engine is 3 years/36,000 miles, which goes slightly past what's left on my old warranty, which still covers the rest of the car."

"Just picked it up tonight! It sounds a lot better than it did. They actually put 10W30 regular oil in it and said to do it again after another 1,500 miles. Something about coating the new parts of the engine or something. After that, I can then switch to Synthetic Mobil 1 10W30. I'll probably still change it every 3,000 miles though. Hopefully, this engine will last a lot longer than the previous one. If I didn't have a warranty, I would have paid $1,618.76 but I only paid $25.00."

Sorry this is so long, but I wanted you to know the whole story before asking questions. Here's some questions if anyone can help:

1. Is this a bad plan?
2. Should I suggest doing something else or am I bound by their suggestions for the first 4,500 miles because of the new warranty?
3. As far as Synthetic Mobil1 5W30 vs. 10W30, what would be a good plan for this engine in light of the suggestions from Carmax?
4. What's the difference between the original engine and this rebuilt long block?
5. Anyone got any ideas on how I should care for this new engine to make it last as long as possible?

Thank you.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-30-2005, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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I realize that a lot of this has been discussed before, but I'm just trying to fill in some blank spots with details. Actually, if you just read the last 3 quotes and then the last small part of this post, then that should be enough for you. Can anyone answer any of my questions? Thank you.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-31-2005, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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I think I'll try Amsoil 10W30 instead of Synthetic Mobil 1.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-01-2005, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkaarjMaster
5. Anyone got any ideas on how I should care for this new engine to make it last as long as possible?
Use Mobil One synthetic motor oil. With a new filter. Highway miles seem to help more than city miles do. Enjoy your "new" car.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-02-2005, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
 
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The rep from Carmax just explained a few things to me. The rebuilt longblock is the whole engine with all new or reconditioned pieces inside. A rebuilt shortblock would just be the block or bottom part of the engine. They do not have any idea how old this new engine was before it got rebuilt though.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-02-2005, 01:00 AM
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Sounds like you've done the right thing. My advice would be to change the oil out after 500 miles and then agian after a further 1000. This might seem excessive, but for the price of an oil change it's cheap insurance. The main reason for this is that because this is a new engine you have bearings, piston rings and such, and all these parts require "breaking in", which is where alot of the initial wear will occur. You need to get this out of your engine asap. After that, run Mobil 1 10w30 and a decent filter (mobil, K&N or purolator i believe are the best), and you should be ok doing an oil change every 5000 miles. I have seen some members going as far as 7k between changes running Mobil 1.

It's the same old story, if you look after the engine with regular maintenance, as you have a record of doing, your 2.7 should last you a long time.

Oh... and welcome to the site. There is plenty of info here relating to your car. Remember, The search "button" is your friend.

No matter how hot she is, someone, somewhere, is sick of her shit....

Last edited by DodgeyAussie; 02-02-2005 at 01:06 AM.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2005, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
 
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did the 500-mile oil change and then the 1,000-mile oil change. I will do one more oil change (3,000 miles from now) with their standard 10W30 at Carmax and then switch to Mobil 1 3,000 miles after that. I just don't trust these 2.7L engines farther than I can throw them, hehe.

I did the 60,000-mile transmission flush-n-fill also with the 1,000-mile oil change and used Amsoil transmission fluid and it seems a lot smoother. Bought 17 quarts of Amsoil trans. fluid from a friend at work...........I hope it's worth it.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-22-2005, 10:00 AM
 
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Is Amsol a suitable sub for ATF4? Not familiar with their products...
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-22-2005, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by alarkyokie
Is Amsol a suitable sub for ATF4? Not familiar with their products...
There are people who will tell you it shouldn't be used in our cars, but Robert, the previous Prez of the 300M Entuhsiast Club has been using it for quite a while with no problems.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-24-2005, 02:41 PM
 
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Smile Congrats on your new engine

Congrats on your new engine. the reason they said to use the normal oil in the begining is so that the molly coated piston rings need to seat correctly to the cylinder walls. the only way to do this is to let them wear in. Now, for the reason the engine failed. Sludge, yes that nasty word. Synthetic oil is a good idea, and it will slow down the process. But it will not stop it. unless the motor is new, there may still be partially blocked ports in the heads. the overhead cams are proned to having sludge in there. plus it doesn't help that the manufactuer has set the radiator fans to kick on at 225deg. Normal oil just doesn't do the job. The cooling fans were set this high to comply with the emmission standards of today engines. Every manufacture needs to produce an average MPG over the range of their product (ei: Dodge). This means for every gas guzzling 5.7l hemi, they need to sell 4 neons. The hotter tempatures assures lower emissions, but this causes the sludge to build up. I use the BGM-MOA44 oil addative. When I pull of the valve covers, They shine like new. Also change the thermostat to a 190 degree thermostat. I'm glad to hear that they replaced the motor, so let it be the last. good luck.
OH yea. I own 1995 LHS 3.5l (178000 miles) - 1994 Jeep Cherokee (114000 miles) and a 2000 Dodge Intrepid (131000 miles). They all are the original engines.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-24-2005, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Intrepid Mechanic
...the manufactuer has set the radiator fans to kick on at 225deg. Normal oil just doesn't do the job. The cooling fans were set this high to comply with the emmission standards of today engines. Every manufacture needs to produce an average MPG over the range of their product (ei: Dodge). This means for every gas guzzling 5.7l hemi, they need to sell 4 neons. The hotter tempatures assures lower emissions, but this causes the sludge to build up. I use the BGM-MOA44 oil addative. When I pull of the valve covers, They shine like new. Also change the thermostat to a 190 degree thermostat...
My understanding is that our cars came with 180 thermostats. Going to a 190 thermostat would mean:
(1) The cooling fans, which already have a very limited finite life, will be running a lot more, and
(2) Since you say heat is what causes the sludge, there will be more sludge due to slightly higher temperatures.

Either you have mis-stated something, or there's something that I missed. Help me out here.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-24-2005, 07:58 PM
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I switched to synthetic around 30k in my 2.7 . I used Castrol synthetic blend for two oil changes before going to Mobil 1 synthetic. Been using it ever since. I have 81k and it runs great. Actually idles smoother than a 3.5 R/T w 66k I test drove. I use 10W-30 all year round
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-15-2005, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question

"BGM-MOA44 oil additive"

What is this exactly and where can I get it?
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-19-2005, 11:35 PM
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Sad 2000 Intrepid 2.7 engine being replaced.

I hope this is the right spot to vent my Frustration if not I apologize. I have a 2000 Chrysler Intrepid with a 2.7L engine, I bought he car Jan 04, so I was going to dress it up a little. Well my first problem was the flickering oil light which from reading post on DI.NET I knew what to tell the garage saved a few dollars because they did not have to find the problem, I gave them the solution and perfect fixed the problem. My second problem, I was drivng to work and heard this knock so I shut off the car and called my warranty company to find out the correct action to take, I am Canadian so I won't tell you my warranty was with global!!! They told me to get it towed to the shop ad have the mechanics look at it? Well it was the Tensioner for the timing chain once they found out what the problem was they replaced the tensioner, BUT they had a problem getting it started timing was out but they swore it was right on, so when I told them that some members suggested it was the timing they said they would look at it again and later that day I got a call saying my car was ready (do you think they would admit it was the timing no). So 5000 km later and 2 oil changes (I change my oil every 3000km) I started to here a faint tapping noise brought it back to the garage and asked them to look into it, they said to get the engine flushed so I booked an appointment for the following week now thay said it would do no damage by driving it just annoying. So I left the garage and went home and the next day I got up went to work and on the way it went from a tapping noise to a heavy knocking noise. So I made a bee line right to the garage to get them to look at it and guess what happened next, If you guessed blowing the motor you are correct. They found half the piston in the oil pan along with a piece of the block. Now they said it must have been making that noise for a couple of weeks/days, then the mechanic that looked at the car the day before came in and was surprised to see me and my car. To say the least I have to have a new engine put in the car and my warranty will only cover a certain dollar amount the garage found me a used engine with 60000km on it for $3200.00 of which my warranty will only cover $2950 so I have to pay the remaining money on the engine and pay to have it installed. I have read some threads about changing from a 2.7 to a 3.2 or 3.5L but I have to pay enough now and by the sounds I would have to purchase additional parts to make it work and at least with this engine I can use parts off of my blown engine. The engine that was blown had 137000km on it, and what they are telling me is that the tensioner is operated by oil pressure and they think that I lost oil pressure and the timing went to Shit causing me to throw a rod. Does that make any sense to any one? Oh yes I still love my car, and thanks for all the information I got from this sight and thanks for allowing me to vent.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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Question

Man, I need to check this forum more often. I guess what they told you is possible, but if you had all the symptoms that I described then it's probably the sludge build up in the engine like everyone else. Did you get it fixed and how is the new(er) engine?

Any clarification to this thermostat issue? Also, where can I find this BGM-MOA44 oil additive? I did a google search for it and the only thing that comes up is 3 links to this thread. :eek10: I'm going in next week for my first oil change with the Mobil 1 oil that Carmax told me I would be better off supplying myself. Thank you.

Last edited by SkaarjMaster; 09-08-2005 at 08:53 AM.
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