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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs down Radiator Air Flow ??

Since these cars were built to be aerodynamic and sleek , the openings
in the front valance and radiator support are none too big in my mind.

Has any one ever come up with some under valance panels or any reasonable
way of getting more air into the front of the car ??

The under hood temperatures are ridiculous with such low air flow and the the
exhaust cats being rt. off the manifold.

Of course there's plenty of red neck Idea's but I'm looking for proven ones.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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I guess something like this would help .

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 08:05 PM
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If you could funnel air from the uncarriage via a lip in front of the radiator. You'd sacrifice some ride height, but it would help with cooling if that's what you needed. What I would personally do is try to keep the heat low that is coming from the engine itself. Wrap the headers and the cats that's directly in the engine bay that would keep the engine temps down. You can also wrap the intake if you have an aftermarket one in heat reflective tape as well as use a heat shield. It just would take more time than anything else.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 08:06 PM
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Also getting a hood scoop that isn't sealed up would help with keeping engine temperatures down.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-31-2014, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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I removed these DTR lights " even though I really liked how they looked " and replaced them with some smaller LED ones. I'm not a fan of the blue LED light color.

These lights blocked about half of the SE lower grill opening.
The temperature gauge runs just a needle width over 1/3rd , where before it would
run half way between 1/3rd and half.

I also installed an front valance under panel to keep the air from going out the bottom.

The SE grill seems to be much more restricted than the ES / RT style.

If time or money " ha ha " wasn't a factor I'd put an ES nose on it.


Last edited by ncfrc; 08-31-2014 at 03:16 PM. Reason: -----------------------------------
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-01-2014, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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I also took a demel and extended the openings towards the center.

I may be wrong but I don"t believe the 3.5 ever came in an SE model.

Deffinitely part of the running temp. being slightly high.

The ES front valance looks like it would flow a lot more air.

I should have picked up on that before now.

Last edited by ncfrc; 09-05-2014 at 03:56 PM. Reason: --------------------------------------------------------------
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-28-2014, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs down

The biggest difference I've seen in temperature reduction is to get more air flow to
the upper half of the radiator. I drilled six 1.25" holes in the upper radiator
support and made sure the hood had at least 1/8-3/16" clearance above
the front valance when closed.
Kind of crude but made a good 10 degree difference at 70 mph.

Note : You HAVE TO remove the upper support to do this or you'll damage your a/c condenser.



Just amazing how many of these cars you still see on the road, especially since they havn't
been in production for almost 11 years.
I'm also running an in-line thermostat in the upper hose on this car.
Works good but the additional air flow made a bigger difference.

I agree ugly but functional. Can't see with hood closed

This pic is as high as the gauge goes unless your stopped in traffic and then it stays half way between 1/3rd and 1/2


Last edited by ncfrc; 10-30-2014 at 06:37 PM. Reason: -----------------------------------------------------------
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-29-2014, 03:32 PM
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kinda ugly but it looks like it would work with the 1.25" holes....I thought about cutting some rectangular holes and maybe putting mesh in there and painting it....never got around to it...and to be honest after my wreck I re did the entire cooling system and used a pressure washer to clean out the engine from the thermostat side out the front radiator hose hole....then did a wash with prestone coolant system wash and installed new thermostat, hoses, radiator and correct Zerex fluid.....runs below the 1/2 way mark on temp guage and never goes up higher than that anymore.....u should of seen the nastiness that came out of the engine when I washed it...geezus....and my car only had 116k on it....and I babied it....geez
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 05:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YesImLDS View Post
If you could funnel air from the uncarriage via a lip in front of the radiator. You'd sacrifice some ride height, but it would help with cooling if that's what you needed. What I would personally do is try to keep the heat low that is coming from the engine itself. Wrap the headers and the cats that's directly in the engine bay that would keep the engine temps down. You can also wrap the intake if you have an aftermarket one in heat reflective tape as well as use a heat shield. It just would take more time than anything else.
I've used header / exhaust wrap on other applications including motorcycles and
the problem I ran across was that you moved a tremendous amount of heat downstream
and the rest of the exhaust would run way too hot , especially for a street vehicle.

I'd think the 4.0 builders would run across a very similar problem of cooling the radiator.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 07:32 AM
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I agree, but in doing so the engine runs cooler, you also sacrifice longevity of your exhaust because wrap holds water. What I say would be best is a radiator lip, wrapped intake with heat shield, and either the hood scoop or the hood lifted like ricers do on the windshield side. Could also think about upgraded radiators as well
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-14-2015, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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A two core radiator would do wonders. I havn't been able to find much
info about the Interceptor cooling package as most radiator suppliers
say" except HD cooling ".

Last edited by ncfrc; 07-18-2015 at 08:26 AM. Reason: ------------------------------------------------
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Summer 2015 front Valance air flow mod.

Don't care what it looks like , just as long as it flows more air.

An old Saab grill I cut up and used Permatex RT. Stuff in hold in place.


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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-28-2015, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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The ONLY time even this seems to make much difference is when the
radiator fans are running. Then you can feel the air being pulled in.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncfrc View Post
A two core radiator would do wonders. I havn't been able to find much
info about the Interceptor cooling package as most radiator suppliers
say" except HD cooling ".
I've owned two police pkg Treps. They were both 2002 cars.
They had oil cooling lines which were deleted from all other 02+ Treps.

I did not see ANY difference between those radiators and the radiators in
any other 3.5 Trep -- just the existence of the oil cooling lines.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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I spent yesterday afternoon cleaning the ac condenser as it had more build up
than I thought .Lots of small embedded pebbles . I also reinstalled some side skirting on both sides of the radiator.

The car is still very ambient air sensitive as it ran mid 170 -178 this morning " 170 degree thermostat " and ran 200-211 this afternoon when it's probably close to 90 degrees outside.
" with the high speed fan circuit turning on at 203 "
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