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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-15-2015, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Overheating

My 2000 2.7 is overheating. I drove it for the first time today (about 20-30mins to school) after timing chain, waterpump and headgasket replacement. Why would it be overheating?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-15-2015, 12:04 PM
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Garage
I would hazard to guess it wasn't bled properly.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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How do I bleed the cooling system I don't see a coolant bleeder value. The pic is what I have I see people with little things to connect a clear tube to but I don't have it.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 12:57 PM
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Hah!

The earlier design had the bleeder in the plastic housing. Proved to be problematic - the metal bleeder seat would separate from the plastic and you'd have a major leak. They came up with a later design that moved the bleeder from the plastic housing to the metal pipe (welded to it).

Looks like some jack wagon left the earlier-design metal pipe (no bleeder) in and replaced the plastic housing with the later design one (also no bleeder) - so you now have no bleeder. A small metal heater core supply pipe branches off that big pipe and goes under the intake (exits at the rear of the engine and hooks up to the heater core thru rubber heater hose), and there are some tricks to getting that out - otherwise difficult to do. I'm guessing the original plastic housing came apart, and whoever replaced it bought the set containing both the plastic housing (without bleeder) and the new pipe (with bleeder), and gave up on getting the old pipe out. AFAIK, you can't purchase just the new-design pipe by itself - I could be wrong.

FWIW, aftermarket does not make the new-design parts, and the plastic housing (with bleeder) that they do sell is poorly made (Dorman) and way more prone to fail than the original-design (typically last less than a year).

If you do decide to fix this, it is highly recommended to get the plastic housing and metal pipe from the Chrysler dealer. If you put in an aftermarket housing, you're asking for big problems.

I hesitate to suggest it, but you could drill a hole in the top of the plastic housing and use a self-tapping screw. Have the system slightly pressurized when drilling so any particles don't go into the system when the drill bit breaks thru. But the "clean" way, again, would be to replace the housing and pipe with the new design ones (dealer only - sold as a set).

EDIT: The new-design housing and pipe is P/N 5017183AB - list is $63.45. On-line discount dealers have it for around $45 (plus shipping). At that, might as well pick it up at a local dealer (will pay sales tax of course). We can give you the tips on doing the R&R if you decide to do it.


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Last edited by peva; 10-19-2015 at 01:09 PM.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Anyway to bleed it without it?
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 04:52 PM
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Nope.

As suggested...get the dealer parts and save yourself a lot of headaches later.
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