Taking heads off of 2.7 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Taking heads off of 2.7

Hello so i developed a knock on the drivers side and want to pull the head off to see if the problem if from a broken valve etc... if so it should be an easy fix as i have location of some good heads that i could pop on with new pistons. The cover is off the cams are out, but the cam sprocket is still attached to the timing chain...is there a tensioner that i need to loosen somewhere to loosen the chain so i can unhook that and pull off the head and see if that is where the damage is.Thank you for the help.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:01 PM
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is there a tensioner that i need to loosen somewhere to loosen the chain so i can unhook that and pull off the head and see if that is where the damage is.Thank you for the help.
i usually remove the guides and then the cam (drivers side) tone ring and that will free up the chain for removal.

this might help....https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?p=1719443

how many miles are on her?
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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209,000 on the original motor.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:07 PM
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209,000 on the original motor.
that's not bad at all....
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Not to shabby really hopefully get her back on the road.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:13 PM
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I would pull the oil pan and check the rod bearings to start with. The knock is likely in the bottom end.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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So the tensioner is located on the passenger side?
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:24 PM
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yep passenger side
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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I would pull the oil pan and check the rod bearings to start with. The knock is likely in the bottom end.
are replacing rod bearings an option or not really or is the motor pretty much gone at that point requiring a new crank...?
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:29 PM
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are replacing rod bearings an option or not really or is the motor pretty much gone at that point requiring a new crank...?
if it's knocking and 2 at 209k miles i'd got for a regrounded crank...also if your going to dump alot of money into it...you might be better with a 3.5 swap
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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ive been weighing my options, if it was head damage it would be an easy fix, if the rod bearings are bad I am going to swap to a 25000 mile 3.5 for 1100.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:39 PM
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ive been weighing my options, if it was head damage it would be an easy fix, if the rod bearings are bad I am going to swap to a 25000 mile 3.5 for 1100.
if your bearing are bad...then the one to really look at would be rod #2
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Im just lazy and its freaking cold outside if my 2 car garage had a door on it i could run a propane heater...if it was warm out i would already have that motor out and the 3.5 in.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
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are replacing rod bearings an option or not really or is the motor pretty much gone at that point requiring a new crank...?
If it has a spun bearing its an automatic crankshaft kit, or regrind. The rods will need to have their bores checked as well and replaced/machined true if out of round. All rods should be checked, especially with that mileage.

Any 2.7 I have ever messed with that needed a crank kit got a full rebuild or got replaced with a 3.2/5. If you dont do a full rebuild at that point, you are asking for trouble down the road.
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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If it has a spun bearing its an automatic crankshaft kit, or regrind. The rods will need to have their bores checked as well and replaced/machined true if out of round. All rods should be checked, especially with that mileage.

Any 2.7 I have ever messed with that needed a crank kit got a full rebuild or got replaced with a 3.2/5. If you don't do a full rebuild at that point, you are asking for trouble down the road.
Yeah im not going to do a full rebuild on a 2.7 figure it would cost around a $1000 in parts, plus my time, the 3.2/5 seems like the most logical way to go ($1000-1500....More HP too). the motor still runs, just with a knock, water pump hasn't failed either which surprised me...the 2.7 and I had a good run it went out with its boots on thats for sure @63-500 RPMs coming out of a corner hit railroad tracks and suddenly lost power. Im sure it would of gone another 20,000+ if i drove it like it had always been driven. Not a bad engine if you can maintain it as for all engines I guess. Im thankful for getting one of the good 2.7s I'll tear into it some more tomorrow to and see if i get lucky. Another question whats the best way to drop the exhaust on this thing, how do you disconnect it from the exhaust manifold there's like this cheesy metal cover surrounding the headers? If I can get the exhaust done while the engine is out of the car that would be a plus i would believe.

Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it. Its nice to get on a forum like this and get pro advice from someone with good rep on the site when I'm not the average daily poster. I might have to stick around and give back...
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