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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Question Buying expensive rims

I've been having a hard time justifying buying new wheels for my Intrepid. I know it's a common upgrade, and it's one that makes a large difference to the look of a car, but I just can't bring myself to spend the high amount of $$$ needed to do it. The best deals I've found are $100/each wheels. Now, even if I get those (which are the cheapest I've found), that'd put me up to $400, plus tax, plus shipping for the big boxes they will occupy. THEN I've gotta buy new rubber for them, and that can get just as expensive, if I want to get the performance ones that would do the wheels justice. I bought the 2000 model at $3500, so how am I gonna spend nearly 1/3 of the car price on wheels that don't really make a performance difference?

How do you (those who have purchased wheels) justify spending so much money on wheels? I want to iterate, I'm not bashing on people who have bought wheels. On the contrary, I want to buy them myself, but how do I logically do it for such a high price. Or am I missing some awesome website that gives good deals?

Thanks for any feedback!
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 02:14 PM
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It depends on how much you want to upgrade the car... desire is the only thing that makes you buy new wheels at our stage of the game (with second gen anyway). The first gen guys on 15" would want to upgrade to 16" if they do a front brake upgrade. Otherwise, the factory wheels and tires will do just fine TECHNICALLY for anything the average Joe would throw at the car.

You can't justify love. You can't justify raw "want"... Now, if you curb check bad enough, you might have to replace a wheel, and an OEM wheel may run (depends greatly on the wheel) you as much as a set of wheels unless you go to a junk yard.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 02:27 PM
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Look for a set of those expensive rims on a wrecked car. i.e. the junk yard (recycle yard in CA)
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 02:40 PM
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Good idea to find compatible wheels in a yard - but all yards I've been to think that the wheels they have are brand new and cast from gold.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 05:57 AM
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i look at it like this, I havent done a rim upgrade persay really yet, but Im justifying the cost with the fact that the larger rim will allow for a greater contact patch to the ground which will help with acceleration and deceleration, as well as moving up to an 18 inch from a 16 inch rim will also add a smaller side wall which will decrease flex and and increase cornering ability.

tho I should admit that I am actually in the works of hoping to actually 'track' my intrepid and it is parked in bad weather so I am also looking at high end tires and rims.

I paid roughly 8000 for my 99 from a stealership, and I put out roughly 8500 in parts and work in 18 months so Im not worried about the cost end of it anymore lol


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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 05:38 PM
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I came up with the look in my head. I thought hey what the heck nobody has done it yet I liked the idea and I was like eehh there alot but the ''want'' is there the funds at the time were saved up for some kind of wheel. I just went and made it happen. I like the car alot and the look on something sometimes might just make you wanna take even more care of it and/or drive it more often! Soo now I enjoy what I have done I get comments when my 20's are back on in the summer was worth it to me!
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2011, 01:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMT0924 View Post
I've been having a hard time justifying buying new wheels for my Intrepid. I know it's a common upgrade, and it's one that makes a large difference to the look of a car, but I just can't bring myself to spend the high amount of $$$ needed to do it. The best deals I've found are $100/each wheels. Now, even if I get those (which are the cheapest I've found), that'd put me up to $400, plus tax, plus shipping for the big boxes they will occupy. THEN I've gotta buy new rubber for them, and that can get just as expensive, if I want to get the performance ones that would do the wheels justice. I bought the 2000 model at $3500, so how am I gonna spend nearly 1/3 of the car price on wheels that don't really make a performance difference?

How do you (those who have purchased wheels) justify spending so much money on wheels? I want to iterate, I'm not bashing on people who have bought wheels. On the contrary, I want to buy them myself, but how do I logically do it for such a high price. Or am I missing some awesome website that gives good deals?

Thanks for any feedback!
what you do to justify that is by taking the length of time you own the vehicle, devide how much you spent on all non oil/gas purchases (tires,brakes,replacement parts; fuel lines, gas tank, seats, new radios, batteries etc. ) so ill use me as an example.
i paid
0 for the car in 06,
3K putting in a rebuilt 2.7 having the tranny solenoids replaced, alignment.
500 for ceramic pads and rotorsm
200 on battery(optima redtop),
300 on replacement lines(tranny line and fuel line)
500 for my yakima rack
400 for custom tow hitch
4900/60=81$ a month
for 60 months ive owned it.
(before i throw a 1000 rebuilding the motor again.)


or alternatively you can look at it like this.
so taking my equation and applying you to it is ur job but if u wana have the car for more then a year. id say its worth it, keep the old rims/tires and you can always put them back on if u sell it and resell or reuse the rims..

just a couple of views.

Last edited by zerokool; 03-29-2011 at 01:46 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2011, 12:25 PM
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One way to justify it is by how much you love your car and how much its worth to you personally. Setting aside a little but at a time for wheels and tires might help it feel better when the time comes. I've always wanted to upgrade from my steelies, and the look transforms the car. It's my second biggest upgrade behind the 3.5 swap.

Another way t look at it is this: $400 is a great deal on wheels. OEMs can go for much, much more through the dealer. As far as tires go. Tires are a wear item and have to be replaced periodically anyway.

You can also just keep your eye out on Craigslist and ebay for really good deals.

I got lucky and scored a sweet deal on my wheels, which came with tires for $200. Granted, they're winter tires (ironic because I don't drive it in the winter) but for the price I'm fine with that until its time to buy new tires.


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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2011, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimura View Post
One way to justify it is by how much you love your car and how much its worth to you personally. Setting aside a little but at a time for wheels and tires might help it feel better when the time comes. I've always wanted to upgrade from my steelies, and the look transforms the car. It's my second biggest upgrade behind the 3.5 swap.

Another way t look at it is this: $400 is a great deal on wheels. OEMs can go for much, much more through the dealer. As far as tires go. Tires are a wear item and have to be replaced periodically anyway.

You can also just keep your eye out on Craigslist and ebay for really good deals.

I got lucky and scored a sweet deal on my wheels, which came with tires for $200. Granted, they're winter tires (ironic because I don't drive it in the winter) but for the price I'm fine with that until its time to buy new tires.
just do it when "you need new tires anyway" ..
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 09:43 AM
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Little bump...I'm kinda sorta thinking of slapping some new rims on my 'Trep, but really have no idea where to start. This thread:
https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=58559
...shows all the sizes and widths, which is something I needed, but I'm still stuck. I'd like some rims like these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-84-5865/overview/
for a sort of NASCAR-chique, but the stock steelies that come on the Intrepid are (and forgive me if I'm using the wrong lingo here) sideset, and those Summit rims seem to be center-set. Would the Summit rims stick out too far past the edge of the fenders, just due to the fact that the hub is centered within the width of the wheel?
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 10:32 AM
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You need to make sure the offset is in the correct range. I can't remember what ours are but I'm thinking it's around +42. Those wheels you linked to are -19. They'll stick way out!

Last edited by Ronbo; 02-01-2014 at 10:37 AM.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 10:51 AM
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What you're talking about is called offset, also called ET (from German "Einpresstiefe" = "insertion depth").

The major concern with those wheels would be bearing life. The offset of our cars (and all, or most all, front-wheel drive cars) is positive. That is to center the upward force on the tire and wheel at the center of the bearing width. The offset on our wheels is around +43mm. The offset on the wheel you linked is -19mm. That puts a huge 62mm (almost 2.5"!) moment arm twisting the bearing out of plane. They aren't designed for that. You will be replacing bearings frequently.

Also, due to the additional moment arm on the effective lever acting on the strut spring, the car will sit lower and the suspension will effectively be softened.

You might need to roll the fenders to keep the tires from rubbing.

EDIT: I was researching while Ron was posting - he's right about the 43mm offset on our factory wheels. I've edited my post to reflect that (I was thinking our offset was around 30mm).


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Last edited by peva; 02-01-2014 at 11:19 AM.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 11:56 AM
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Craigslist is always good for used rims. Also old Special wheels that have been rehabbed with a new finish always look bad ass.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
What you're talking about is called offset, also called ET (from German "Einpresstiefe" = "insertion depth").

The major concern with those wheels would be bearing life. The offset of our cars (and all, or most all, front-wheel drive cars) is positive. That is to center the upward force on the tire and wheel at the center of the bearing width. The offset on our wheels is around +43mm. The offset on the wheel you linked is -19mm. That puts a huge 62mm (almost 2.5"!) moment arm twisting the bearing out of plane. They aren't designed for that. You will be replacing bearings frequently.

Also, due to the additional moment arm on the effective lever acting on the strut spring, the car will sit lower and the suspension will effectively be softened.

You might need to roll the fenders to keep the tires from rubbing.

EDIT: I was researching while Ron was posting - he's right about the 43mm offset on our factory wheels. I've edited my post to reflect that (I was thinking our offset was around 30mm).
I was pretty sure that +35-45 is a safe number for our offsets, or am I mistaken?
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 03:37 PM
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Thanks again, guys! The collective knowledge here is absolutely astounding.
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