The car's goin "Christine" on Me! (Sorry Long Post) - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation The car's goin "Christine" on Me! (Sorry Long Post)

Right... now that the mod-bug still creeps up and bites my arse in the gloaming my Trep has been affected by well, crazy possessed electrical gremlins.

Here's the story so far. I pulled all the carpet out and put sound deadening in the floor pan and trunk. I found a few minor water leaks around the door sills so I re-did the body seals. Reinstalled carpet.

I pulled the roof down and installed a complete new OTIS harness. The old one is still up there, just had it's end cut off. Re-installed roof.

I ran a 4g. amp wire directly off the new battery (Mopar) fused at the post, to the trunk for both my amps. Amps grounded to a self-tapping screw in the rt. trunk floor. (still hearing alternator whine through speakers...prolly need to sand some more and re-ground).

Pulled the old gauge cluster out and replaced it with a 300M. Also replaced the mechanical shifter to Auto Stick. I haven't hooked up the wires to the BCM yet. Installed a new steering wheel (@#$%#$% Sweet!!!) but haven't hooked up the volume controls yet. Cruise controls work and no SRS warning lights so I guess I did it right.


I've also installed a new bumper cover with fogs. That one is connected to the blue fog lamp output wire and works perfectly. This is the only mod that has worked without a hitch for me. I've also added an auto light switch with a sun-load sensor. The sun-load sensor is not hooked up yet either.

While I had the dash ripped apart I reinstalled all the wires for my audio. Ran new RCA's and remote power to the trunk when the carpet was out. Installed a three gang power outlet to power the Xm, iPod and Nav systems. (Never hook a Xm outlet to 12v directly.... it makes one hell of a zort!)

Installed new to me leather seats and drove the car for several days.

Now I can start the car, drive it and park it. Put the thing in park and turn the key to the off position and remove it.

THE CAR STILL RUNS. The dash lights stay lit....then randomly put up odd warnings. No two alike warnings... I have to pull the red fuse to get the car to choke off.

Ok so I rip apart the column yesterday. The key cyl. is fine. I hook up the OBD III scanner (ah the advantages to working at a Chrysler/Dodge dealership!) and the thing says unknown code. WTF?

Looks like I'll order the electrical part of the ignition switch today and install it tomorrow. I'm hoping that will fix everything. But I just can't understand if the key is off and the ignition wires are unplugged how can the car still run? I've checked all the fuses in the car. They are all intact.

One other clue that might help you, help me. When I changed the shifter, I had to replace the shift cable interlock with the one for the autostick. The difference between the two is that my old one had an electrical connection to it. (No idea what this is, but the one for the 300m didn't have it) I'm thinking this might have something to do with the odd electrical problems.

Seriously, this has gotten to the point of not being fun anymore and now all I want to do is just drive the car....OFF A CLIFF
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 07:41 AM
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Get an FSM and study the schematics. No way to troubleshoot things like that without doing that.

Also - A/S wires go to the TCM, not the BCM.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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I've gone over the FSM and can't find anything.... I thought I read you could install the AS wires into the BCM so you didn't have to go through the firewall. I think it's in a post in the "How to A/S" section.
Thanks for the warning though.

[EDIT] I re-read the "How to" discussion and it's kinda fuzzy. Sounds like the C106 circuit depends on the model of the vehicle. Concord seems to have problems but there's a little grey area with regard to Second Gen Intrepid. It seems to me like your saying wire directly to the TCM in all cases to avoid the confusion. PITA in either case, but a better connection?

I've photocopied a whole bunch of schematics for the ignition circuitry. I'll get into it again when I'm not seeing red. I also might stop by our local u-pick yard and see if I can find an ignition module.

Last edited by VAtrepn; 04-21-2011 at 01:44 PM. Reason: Additional Information
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 10:56 AM
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ok,, was fine before,, but not after,, something is feeding back current, my advise,, start disconnecting things you connected,, one at a time
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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That's the thing.... I've haven't connected anything yet. I've pulled the amp fuse, disconnected the fog lights and pulled the 300m cluster out. I've even re-connected this...

Same problems. I'm beginning to think it might just be a coincedence and the ignition module decided to die on me.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Wait... ya know I haven't unhooked my 3 gang outlet yet......will try during lunch.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 12:00 PM
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maybe a pinched wire somewhere? something when you did the steering wheel?
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Pinched wire is possible....I put sound deadening material that had a aluminum backing over the whole floor pan and trunk. But you'd think that if a wire was exposed it would just ground out. As for the steering wheel, all this was happening before I put in the wheel.

The 3 gang power accessory had no effect on the system. I un-wired it and the problem still exists.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VAtrepn View Post
I've gone over the FSM and can't find anything.... I thought I read you could install the AS wires into the BCM so you didn't have to go through the firewall. I think it's in a post in the "How to A/S" section.
Thanks for the warning though.

[EDIT] I re-read the "How to" discussion and it's kinda fuzzy. Sounds like the C106 circuit depends on the model of the vehicle. Concord seems to have problems but there's a little grey area with regard to Second Gen Intrepid. It seems to me like your saying wire directly to the TCM in all cases to avoid the confusion. PITA in either case, but a better connection?...
Here's the best I can explain it in a nutshell - it might help to make simple sketches as you read thru the following:

There are 4 wires to the up/down shift module in the shifter: Power, Ground, Up Shift, and Down Shift.

The BCM connections from TFC's instructions are for the power and ground for the A/S up/down shift module. I wasn't thinking about the power and ground wires when I made the statement earlier about the A/S wires not going to the BCM - I was only thinking about the up and down shift wires - sorry about that. Another reason I wasn't thinking in terms of the BCM was that in my installation instructions for the Puttstick (an A/S accessory), I have you grab power by T-tapping the red wire to the DLC (Data Link Connector), and ground by attaching a ring terminal to one of the two ground studs under the carpet to the right of the driver's right foot (at base of console) - so that is an option for you to run power and ground for the up/down shift module without involving the BCM connectors.

The other two wires are the up and down shift signal outputs from the up/down shift module - they go to the TCM ('98-'01) or the PCM ('02 -'04). In either case, those 2 wires go first to the C106 connector in the cluster of connectors near the brake pedal. On some cars, the wires are already run from the factory between C106 and the TCM/PCM whether or not the car came with A/S. On other cars, those wires were only run if the car came with A/S. All I can tell you is that my '99 Concorde came with the C106-to-TCM wires already run, my '98 Concorde did not come with them already run - neither car came with A/S (in fact, *no* Concorde came from the factory with A/S). I don't know what the story is on various years of Intrepids regarding those two wires already being run or not (FWIW, some Intrepids came with A/S, some without - obviously the ones with A/S have those wires already run - unsure about those w/o A/S, and, again, may vary by year as with my Concordes).

IN ANY CASE - if your car has the wires between C106 and the TCM/PCM already run, you can run the up and down shift wires from the shifter directly to the mating half of C106, or T-tap to the existing wires. If your car does not already have the two C106-to-TCM/PCM wires already run, you can run wires all the way between the shifter and the TCM/PCM (bypassing C106 altogether), or do it in two parts - i.e., two wires between TCM/PCM and C106, and two wires between the mating half of C106 and the shifter. It is totally up to you which way you do it, taking into consideation if your C106-to-TCM/PCM wires are already there or not. One way is not necessarily better than the other - do whichever makes sense to you.

Does this address all your questions related to the A/S wires?


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs

Last edited by peva; 04-21-2011 at 11:34 PM.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 11:21 PM
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BTW - You're in Blacksburg - I'm in Radford.
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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Holy Shit. Much better.... Definately makes much more sense now.

I work in Radford.... How cool is that?
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 08:18 AM
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Holy Shit. Much better.... Definately makes much more sense now.

I work in Radford.... How cool is that?
Does the name of the company happen to start with a 'K'?
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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No. I work at Thompson Chrysler Dodge. Where were you thinking of?
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 08:23 AM
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-25-2011, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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So I broke down and ordered a new ignition switch. We'll see if it helps...
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