My Trep Story - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2011, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Greensburg, PA
Posts: 16
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
My Trep Story

Ok guys, I am in a bit of a pickle. I need a new transmission. Its been to two different shops and both tore into the tranny and it needs a total 100% rebuild. I cant afford it and frankly I'd rather do a tranny swap and I want to do it myself. I spoke to a lot of techs and I feel comfortable with following a step by step but as a how to with pics or detailed descriptions, I don't have.

First the specs:

Engine: 3.5 HO (installed by a garage)
It is a an Intrepid ES

Tranny just gave up after wear and tear.

Second, the questions...

!. I have been told there are 6 bolts holding the engine in place on rubbered engine mounts.Where are they located and does anyone have any picture reference?

2. Besides bolting the transmission bell housing to the engine block, does the fly wheel and torque converter slide together and then bolts onto the engine block, or are there other things that need bolted first?

3. I searched the How To section and could not find a step by step guide to a tranny swap or removal/install. I would greatly appreciate ti if someone can draft one up for me that is a bit more clearer than the service manual.

Any tips, help, suggestions would be helpful.
copypaper is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2011, 05:28 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,449
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
Hi there. Go to the first gen section and look for how to swap a second gen tranny into a first gen car. There you will find some of what you need.

In sort:

Jack the car up, and remove the lower bell housing cover from the engine - I do not know how this is done, but it should be pretty obvious

With a 15mm socket on a short extension, and turning the engine CLOCKWISE ONLY (as facing the front of the engine, standing at the bumper), rotate around till you find all four flex-plate to converter bolts. These are 17mm or 18mm heads, and there are 4 of them. Rotate the crank clockwise only using the front end. You may have to brace the engine from turning while loosening the TC bolts. You will have to likely use a combination wrench on the TC bolts, as there will not be room for a socket and wrench.

With those four removed, reach up the passenger side of the bell housing and find the crank sensor plug, and remove it. Look for any bolts low on the engine that bolt into the bell housing, and remove those now - on a second gen, that may already be done when removing the inspection cover.

I'd go around the top side now and undo the electrical connectors on the firewall/passenger side strut tower. With that, make sure the wire harness is free of all clips and other connectors so that you can drop the transmission with the wire harness attached. You may have to work with the plugs to remove them from a big bulk connector shell that they clip into. (this may not apply to second gen, don't know for sure).

Now, you will need to lift the car some 25 inches into the air to work on it and clear the bell housing. you may also need to raise it higher to get the transmission in and out on a transmission jack. To lower the transmission out of the car, you can do it with a plane floor jack and a small helper to lower the jack while you balance the transmission - to put it back, however, you will need some under the car with you to do it right - you can do it alone, but I wouldn't suggest it if you can get away from it. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, make sure your car is adequately blocked and secured so that it will not roll, shift, fall, or otherwise kill you or others while you are working on, near, or under it. You would be wise to raise the rear of the vehicle as well as the front, if you can, so that everything is up in the air - will make dropping the exhaust easier if needed.

You now need to support the transmission so that you can free the transmission from its bonds. Inspect to see if you need to drop the exhaust first - on a first gen, you can get away with out having to sometimes. Unbolt and remove the rear cross member and transmission mount. Lower the jack a little bit to get to the top transmission bolts. You will need to remove 4 (I think) from the top, from the transmission end. I would use a long extension. The transmission bolts are 18mm or 17mm (I want to say 18mm). I would crack them all loose, and then make sure the transmission isn't going to slip out or fall, then remove everything else.

OH, just remembered, on the driver's side, you will need to unbolt (and not a bad idea to go ahead and remove) the starter. It is held on with 3 15mm headed bolts.

You will also need to unbolt and somehow cap the cooler lines. Unbolt them at the transmission, and tape bags over them or something. The transmission dip-stick may also need to be removed - depends on how it is routed. To remove it, feel up the stick to find a tab with a 10mm headed bolt, remove it. It is such that it is inline with the car's centerline. THEN, you will find a 13mm nut in the same place, going across the car's centerline - loosen this till what it clamps down can rotate - this is the shift cable anchor. Follow the shift cable back along the transmission to the shift lever, and pop it off with a small pry-bar. Btw, the hold you pulled the dipstick out of should be corked with some sort of plug - it will be sloshing red fluid out as you move it around otherwise.

I would bring the engine and transmission level, remove the last of the bolts, and pull backwards. You will need to slide it back about 4 inches to clear the tone ring on the engine's flex plate. Watch out for the speed sensors located on the driver's side of the transmission. Lower it to the ground, and compare it to your new transmission. You may need to adjust the cooler line connectors to match, etc. Before installing your new transmission, I would follow the transmission cooler lines from the TOP of the radiator to the opening were the transmission is missing from, and hook a hose to the top line. Then, with a funnel on top the line you added, pour in acetone. With some amount of acetone in the line, apply gentle compressed air to blow the old fluid (and contaminates) out the bottom of the cooler, along with the solvent. Repeat if you feel it needs it. A good idea is to put a short line and catch can on the other transmission line so you don't spray fluid and acetone all under the car.

Installation is basically the reverse of removal. Watch out for the torque converter, however - you must watch and make sure that it is seated all the way in. Using your old transmission as a learning tool, remove the TC and see how it goes on. You will feel see that the end of the input snout has two flats ground into it, and then two splines on the two shafts in the middle. The two splined shafts are easy to line up - but that double flat on the end of the snout does NOT readily line up, and must be paid special care to - the TC will go in far enough to feel like it is in all the way - but will NOT allow the engine to turn if it isn't lined up. Take the time now to make sure your new tranny and TC are lined up, or you will be cursing a LOT when you install it and remove it again.

A side note - on 1st gen cars, there are two water pipes and a wiring harness that bolt onto the extended studs on the back of the transmission to engine bolts. If you reach up with the socket on the extension, and can't get them to seat on, you have to stop, put a 13mm socket on, remove two nuts from the top two bolts, then argue with this pipe to get it to clear up and over the studs, then check again with the 17/18mm socket - if you still can't get on, check for a wiring harness stainless steel tab in your way. Curse accordingly, and move, then continue with your bolt removal.

Good luck!
cdmccul is offline  
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2011, 05:34 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,449
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
cdmccul is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2011, 05:35 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,449
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
Here are those brackets on the pipe that cover the top two transmission bolts on a 1st gen. The brackets come off the bottom of the pipe, they are upside down here.

2nd gen may not have them

cdmccul is offline  
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2011, 05:36 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,449
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
Dark picture, but here are the brackets hanging down after having removed my transmission.

cdmccul is offline  
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2011, 05:36 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,449
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
The picture shows where the crank sensor is.

cdmccul is offline  
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2011, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Greensburg, PA
Posts: 16
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Wow thanks a lot for the details! I failed to mention its a second gen year 2002 :( please forgive me for the mistake. Should have known better. I heard from the garage I took it to today and they can't reassemble the tranny so they are going to box it up and toss it in the back. I'll have the tranny case to test with and to see how itll fit.
copypaper is offline  
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2011, 05:53 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,449
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
Yup, I knew you had a second gen - I've only ever swapped them in 1st gen cars though.

If you don't have access to a helper, but have room and have an engine crane, they are just about the same taking out the top with the engine, then splitting on the ground.

Since your tranny is already out on the ground, congrats! half your work is done.

Make sure the transmission you get is direct swap compatable, otheriwse you will have to do some wiring changes on the transmission range sensor plug - that is the only difference in ANY year of second gen car (1998-2004) - if you get a different year transmission, just make sure you get a few inches of wire and the plug that matches the transmission you get (see picture above for which plug is the range sensor).

The engine you get the transmission from also doesn't matter for FIT, but a 2.7 is going to have a final drive gear ratio of 3.89, and all the other ones you get (even first gen) will be 3.66.

I guess also the 300m Special also came with 3.89 gears.

What engine was originally in your car then?
cdmccul is offline  
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-05-2011, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Greensburg, PA
Posts: 16
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Originally it was the regular 3.5 V6 but that blew and was upgraded to a 3.5 V6 HO. The tranny will be plug and play but I will be getting it online. I have a resource but I am open to suggestions is anyone knows of a site or a distributor I can purchase a tranny from.

So far I found one with a 5 year warranty. Id post the link but I haven't made enough posts...
copypaper is offline  
post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-05-2011, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Greensburg, PA
Posts: 16
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
copypaper is offline  
post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-05-2011, 03:15 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,449
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
Don't know anything about them, but it is about twice the price of the one I bought. Then again, it is 10 times the warranty. The labor to install the transmission, to me, outweighs the cost of getting a used one, and so I just go with the cheapest option, since all used transmissions are a shot in the dark anyway.

Nice that it is free shipping though.
cdmccul is offline  
post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Greensburg, PA
Posts: 16
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Recent update on my tranny situation...I found a tranny at a auto-wrecker shop in a town bout an hour from home for $300 and I have a tranny shop who can install it for another $300. Sure as hell beats my original quote I got from Cottman for a rebuild ($2600+). In the next few weeks I'll have my trep back on the road :-D, and I cannot wait.
copypaper is offline  
post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 09:13 AM
Intrepid Pro
 
micholob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Osceola, IA
Posts: 2,455
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by copypaper View Post
Recent update on my tranny situation...I found a tranny at a auto-wrecker shop in a town bout an hour from home for $300 and I have a tranny shop who can install it for another $300. Sure as hell beats my original quote I got from Cottman for a rebuild ($2600+). In the next few weeks I'll have my trep back on the road :-D, and I cannot wait.
Good deal
micholob is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome