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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-03-2012, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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Auto Stick Conversion

So I've been thinking about switching my 2.7 liter to a auto stick as it seems like a pretty cheap mod and I plan on putting a V6 3.5 in anyways so it's something I'd like to do. I have a few questions regarding this. I'm pretty sure the first two I'm right but I just want to make sure.

Can I use an 300m auto stick cluster for this?

Will a dodge intrepid auto stick work as long as it's in the 00-04 era? (Mines a 2002)

How difficult is the switch? Is it pretty much just replacing the things and plugging the same things back in on the new part that were on the old one? If not what will I need extra for the switch?

Thanks.

Last edited by crysis4; 03-04-2012 at 12:59 AM.
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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 05:06 AM
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I believe the cluster just plugs right in.

You will need a shifter that is auto-stick equipped, proper cables and the proper body harness for the electrical connection. There's a how-to in the archives on splicing wiring into the system instead.
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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 09:24 AM
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Check out this how-to from the Second Generation How-To section.

https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=81451
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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 09:51 AM
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Here's a previous post that I did - it should help. The 4 wires that I mention are the ones that are to/from the A/S module in the A/S shifter. (Also, to make the info. universal across all years, for pre'02 cars, change 'PCM' to 'TCM' everywhere):

You have 4 wires - no more, no less - to be concerned with for the A/S: A power (Red/White), a ground (Black), an upshift wire (Light Green/Red), and a downshift (Yellow/Light Blue) wire.

Simplest way to grab power is to tap the Red/White wire of the DLC (Data Link Connector) - easier than adding a terminal to the connector in the BCM that the How-To's talk about.

For ground - put a ring terminal on that wire and attach it to one of the two ground studs just above the lower edge of the console plastic to the right of your ankle when your foot is on the gas pedal.

The upshift (Light Green/Red) and downshift (Yellow/Light Blue) wires should be tapped to the correct wires on C106 (located on the cluster of connectors to the left of the brake pedal - the left top connector above the blue connector, 10 pins) - Light Green/Red (up shift) and Yellow (down shift). Those two wires are adjacent to each other - the Light Green/Red one is on the last pin of one of the rows, and the Yellow is immediately adjacent to it.

I suggest you remove the single screw (10mm hex head - might be 8mm, but I think 10) attaching the panel of connectors to a bracket to work with C106, then re-attach when done. You won't have much length of wires to work with - just carefully work with those wires (unwrap some harness tape, etc.) to pull a little slack in them for a service loop to splice to. Tight, but do-able.

On some years, the up and down shift wires were not run to C106 from the PCM on cars that didn't come from the factory with A/S, so you would have to run your own wires from the PCM If that's the case, you might just as well bypass C106 and make a direct run from the PCM (under the hood) to the shifter A/S module.

I'm assuming that the wires that would go from C106 to the shifter A/S module are not in your car - that too may vary by year for cars without A/S. But if they are there, the wire that is yellow on one side (PCM side) of C106 will be Yellow/Light Blue on the other side (shifter side). Just be careful not to grab the Yellow/*DARK* Blue wire that is also on C106. Sometimes dark blue and light blue can be almost indistinguishable on these wires. If it's the one immediately adjacent to the Light Green/Red wire, you know that's the correct one.

You have an FSM? You really should have one if only for section 8W that contains the schematics, connector pinouts, and other essential wiring info.

Oh - also - hopefully not insulting you if you already know this stuff, but either make soldered connections, or use *RED* T-taps. Blue T-taps are for larger wires and will make very unreliable connections on these smaller wires. Red (T-taps or other tapping devices) only if that's what you use to splice.


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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgs View Post
Check out this how-to from the Second Generation How-To section.
I checked this out but I don't think it's the same situation I'm in.

Quote:
AutoStick Gauges
Autostick TCM
Autostick Shifer
Autostick Shifter Bezel
Misc Wires
Butt Connectors
If I have to mess with the TCM then I will probably drop the project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Railoffroader2 View Post
I believe the cluster just plugs right in.
You will need a shifter that is auto-stick equipped, proper cables and the proper body harness for the electrical connection. There's a how-to in the archives on splicing wiring into the system instead.
So just with the correct cluster and the autostick piece. Also of course wiring I should be able to set it up right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
Here's a previous post that I did - it should help. The 4 wires that I mention are the ones that are to/from the A/S module in the A/S shifter. (Also, to make the info. universal across all years, for pre'02 cars, change 'PCM' to 'TCM' everywhere):

You have 4 wires - no more, no less - to be concerned with for the A/S: A power (Red/White), a ground (Black), an upshift wire (Light Green/Red), and a downshift (Yellow/Light Blue) wire.

Simplest way to grab power is to tap the Red/White wire of the DLC (Data Link Connector) - easier than adding a terminal to the connector in the BCM that the How-To's talk about.

For ground - put a ring terminal on that wire and attach it to one of the two ground studs just above the lower edge of the console plastic to the right of your ankle when your foot is on the gas pedal.

The upshift (Light Green/Red) and downshift (Yellow/Light Blue) wires should be tapped to the correct wires on C106 (located on the cluster of connectors to the left of the brake pedal - the left top connector above the blue connector, 10 pins) - Light Green/Red (up shift) and Yellow (down shift). Those two wires are adjacent to each other - the Light Green/Red one is on the last pin of one of the rows, and the Yellow is immediately adjacent to it.

I suggest you remove the single screw (10mm hex head - might be 8mm, but I think 10) attaching the panel of connectors to a bracket to work with C106, then re-attach when done. You won't have much length of wires to work with - just carefully work with those wires (unwrap some harness tape, etc.) to pull a little slack in them for a service loop to splice to. Tight, but do-able.

On some years, the up and down shift wires were not run to C106 from the PCM on cars that didn't come from the factory with A/S, so you would have to run your own wires from the PCM If that's the case, you might just as well bypass C106 and make a direct run from the PCM (under the hood) to the shifter A/S module.

I'm assuming that the wires that would go from C106 to the shifter A/S module are not in your car - that too may vary by year for cars without A/S. But if they are there, the wire that is yellow on one side (PCM side) of C106 will be Yellow/Light Blue on the other side (shifter side). Just be careful not to grab the Yellow/*DARK* Blue wire that is also on C106. Sometimes dark blue and light blue can be almost indistinguishable on these wires. If it's the one immediately adjacent to the Light Green/Red wire, you know that's the correct one.

You have an FSM? You really should have one if only for section 8W that contains the schematics, connector pinouts, and other essential wiring info.

Oh - also - hopefully not insulting you if you already know this stuff, but either make soldered connections, or use *RED* T-taps. Blue T-taps are for larger wires and will make very unreliable connections on these smaller wires. Red (T-taps or other tapping devices) only if that's what you use to splice.
If that's most of the hard work I will have to do, then I might try. Can you happen to tell me if my model a 2002 Dodge Intrepid SE has the correct stuff for wiring so I don't have to bother with the PCM? If not is there a easy way to tell with out taking everything apart?
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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 07:45 PM
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I think '02 doesn't need any TCM work since the cluster tells if its autostick or not. You'll need to run 2 wires to the front drivers side and spice them to a connector for the upshift/downshift wires, ground 1 wire to a bolt (I used the one that holds the shifter in place) and insert one of the wires to an empty slot in another connector.



Don't get these mixed up


As for parts you'll need:
A/S cluster
A/S shifter with harness
A/S shift bezel

You also have to make sure you get the right a/s shifter; under the bezel , I'm not sure what its called, but one the doohickeys under there can either be round or square apparently, check yours and get the a/s shifter with the right bracket.

Last edited by 01TrepSE; 03-04-2012 at 07:51 PM.
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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 08:34 PM
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Regarding the TCM: 1) There is no TCM in '02 and up. Starting with '02 MY, the TCM was incorporated into the new design PCM. 2) With the sole exception of 1998 MY, there is no change in TCM or PCM as the case may be needed to convert to A/S. As 01TREPSE said, the TCM (or PCM for '02 and up) takes its cue from whatever cluster is installed to determine if the car is A/S or non-A/S - the firmware is in the PCM/TCM for both modes of operation. (For '98, there were two models of TCM - one an A/S, the other non-A/S, though you could plug a later-year TCM in the '98 and it would work fine too.)

Quote:
So just with the correct cluster and the autostick piece. Also of course wiring I should be able to set it up right?
Correct.

As far as the wiring, follow my 1st post exacty and you should be good - again, you have to deal with 4 wires and only those 4 wires - period. I think it has everything you need for that. The other How-To's leave out several details and variations (year-to-year, etc.) that you may run into. My instructions are very specific, and I think simpler if I may say so.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 01TREPSE
You also have to make sure you get the right a/s shifter; under the bezel , I'm not sure what its called, but one the doohickeys under there can either be round or square apparently, check yours and get the a/s shifter with the right bracket.
That is a good point. There was a change in the shifter design I think in '01. You either *must* get an '02 or up A/S shifter *OR* you can get an earlier A/S shifter and swap out the base part of that with the base part of your old shifter. The change was in a detail of how the shift and ignition interlock cables attach (and those details are all in the detachable base).


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs

Last edited by peva; 03-04-2012 at 08:40 PM.
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 12:42 AM
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Really and truly you don't have to do much wiring. The wiring is already there. Just have to find the pigtail under the center console and add the pigtail to the auto stick to it then it's just plug and play. Problem is it might be hiding under the carpet and also knowing Chrysler they have a gang of electrical tape on the harness.
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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCPMeta View Post
Really and truly you don't have to do much wiring. The wiring is already there...
I think that's only true for certain years or options, and more often than not, it's not there But - yeah - if the harness is there, it would be nice.
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 01:49 PM
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My 02 SE had it so I bet his will too.
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post #11 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-08-2012, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
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I appreciate every one in here for there helpful responses.
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post #12 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 02:39 PM
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Ok i dont have the floor shifter how much work do you think id have to do
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post #13 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 06:06 PM
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I dont' think they ever made A/S for column shifter... so you'll have to convert to floor shift. Could be wrong.. can one of the pro's confirm.
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post #14 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treppinsince02 View Post
Ok i dont have the floor shifter how much work do you think id have to do
I did this exact conversion back in 2007. See my post here: https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=90466

Sorry, don't have the pics anymore. Power is ran to ignition. Do not run to lighter.
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post #15 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-08-2013, 06:18 PM
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Question

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Originally Posted by primetime View Post
I did this exact conversion back in 2007. See my post here: *snip*

Sorry, don't have the pics anymore. Power is ran to ignition. Do not run to lighter.
When you put the wires into the cavities on the TCM's connector do you need a contact to put in there as well? Will it work with just the wire or is there already a contact present?
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