Rotors that don't suck? - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Angry Rotors that don't suck?

I've had Powerstop cross drilled and slotted. Warped within a year.

I've now had 2 full sets of of R-1 concepts (cross drilled/slotted) and the front's are warped in in record time. Nine months! This is with their brand of ceramic pads to boot. The back are in good shape, but still.

Brakes were bled and the break in procedures were followed. I have no hanging/frozen calipers. I'm just stumped. I've owned six Dodge vehicles over the years (this being #7) and I've never had a car eat rotors like this before.

Thoughts?
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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 08:38 PM
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NAPA Performance Rotors FTW!



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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 08:43 PM
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NAPA Performance Rotors FTW!
I second that. Ive had napa United Parts rotors on my car going on 6 years now. No warp, never have needed to be turned. They are just the regular ones, but still.
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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 09:10 PM
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Bendix. A bit pricey but worth it. I bought their standard ones for my car. Not much use. But have seen and been in cars with their rotors that have been heavily abused. Not one pulse in the pedal.
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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 09:13 PM
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Had R1 ecolines rotors for 4 1\2 years on front, and rear. And the current set of 300m PHP R1 rotors going on 2 years with no issues on the front.

Not to mention both sets saw autocross and very spirited driving.

I don't know why your have warped like that have unless it was bad run or something else is going on.
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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 09:36 PM
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My guess is that the rotors aren't the problem - that the problem is pads with "gummy" binders that unevenly film the rotors mimicking warped rotors. I used to have problems with what I thought were warped rotors. No matter what I tried, the brakes still pulsed. When I finaly realized that the pads were the cause and attacked *them* instead of the rotors, my braking problems disappeared (the break-thru for me came when an engineer at Frozen Rotors talked me into quitting using ceramic pads).

Last edited by peva; 05-18-2012 at 09:40 PM.
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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 09:37 PM
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go with the Napa's,, forget the drilled and slotted stuff,, it just weakens the rotor,,
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 09:44 PM
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go with the Napa's,, forget the drilled and slotted stuff,, it just weakens the rotor,,
Those would be the NAPA Premium Rotors instead of the Performance Rotors that I pictured. I had a pair of NAPA Premiums on the 2002 R/T which worked fine for over two years.
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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-18-2012, 09:50 PM
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I've also had good luck with the NAPA premium rotors, followed by the Bendix. Although availabilty has been an issue with the Bendix.
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 04:45 AM
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I've been running Wearever rotors for a while now (6 years) and so far no issues. Bought those from Advance Auto.

I tend to agree with PEVA on the pads being a problem on it .
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post #11 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Ronbo View Post
Those would be the NAPA Premium Rotors instead of the Performance Rotors that I pictured. I had a pair of NAPA Premiums on the 2002 R/T which worked fine for over two years.
There's also the NAPA Ultra Premium rotors (86777), which are painted (and may be one notch better as far as materials and processing - how do you know?) which aren't drilled or slotted.

Be aware that NAPA rotors are reboxed Raybestos - so you can use that fact for price shopping the same exact rotors. (NAPA Ultra Premium 8677 are Raybestos 76777). Also, consider the Centric 12063048 competing rotor. Rock Auto has Raybestos and Centric.
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post #12 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 09:55 AM
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I have never liked Centric. I worked at a shop that loved to sell them to customers. They all sucked. For one, not one was even close to being true to shape or centered. Majority of them had to be re-cut out of the box before being bolted on the car or they would shake and/or pulse. Quite a few came back around 1,000 miles with center ribs splitting. They were okay or bad, but too much chance of bad IMHO.
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post #13 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 02:54 PM
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Same problem.....

I have endless trouble with front only

Factory rotors, warped first couple years

Power slot rotors lasted longer, warped, and hawk ceramic pads gave no stopping power unless they were HOT- very bad!

Now have Raybestos rotors and pads, tons of dust, and squeak like he'll! But no warp yet.

But that's over 10 years and 100 000 miles, and my only major recurring problem with this car.
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post #14 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 08:06 PM
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ceramic pads are better but work alot hotter causing your warping.
i found the same thing. my rotors need machineing once or twice a year.
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post #15 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zerokool View Post
ceramic pads are better but work alot hotter causing your warping...
For a given stop (i..e, energy dissipated), the same amount of heat is generated. From what you're saying, ceramics (if you can generalize) don't conduct the heat away from/out of the rotor as well as other materials. That's an argument not to use ceramics in my book.

Last edited by peva; 05-20-2012 at 09:46 AM.
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