Timing Belt WooHoo! - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Timing Belt WooHoo!

Hey guys, Jackfish again. So i rolled 170k the other day, time to do the timing belt. I bought a belt, water pump and serpentine belt just to cover the bases while im there. Also doing a transmission service and oil change. What kind of things can i expect to trouble me during the timing belt job? I have a shop for monday, and a special puller so i dont have to remove the rad. Courtesy of my boss. Any heads ups would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 06:30 PM
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I have the short puller too but found it easier to work on with the rad out of the way.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 06:48 PM
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i do with the rad in place. remove the fans though, and top rad hose. restarting the pulley on the crank is the funner part. either find a longer bolt of the same size/thread, or you might get away with some tapping to get it on far enough for the original bolt to start some threads.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 07:46 PM
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Have a bench vise so you can recompress the tensioner.

Last edited by BatCaveTrep; 09-02-2012 at 09:00 PM. Reason: fix wording
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 08:17 PM
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Be sure to double check the tensioner before re-using it. so far I've only seen one bad one. try to push in on it by hand - it should be really stiff ( thats the reason why you want to have a vice ).

If you don't have the special tool for locking the cams, the drivers side camshaft may try to turn about 90 degrees if you bump it or move it a slight bit while trying to fit the new belt in place. Don't worry, just turn it back to within the timing marks and try again (valves should be ok).

I can't remember which side the manual says to start with when installing the timing belt, but I started with the drivers side cam. In either case it may be a little bit difficult to get the new belt timed perfectly on the 2nd cam because any slack will cause it to be off by a tooth.

When you have the drivers side cam within the timing marks and installing the belt, the passenger side cam will probably either point directly at one dot or the other depending on which teeth of the belt that the sprocket is on. If this is the case, you want the crank sprocket mark to be centered, the drivers side cam to be centered between the timing marks, and the passenger side cam to be pointed towards the inner dot.

I do recall how one member mentioned that the wadded up plastic bags or something like that and stuffed them between the sprocket / timing belt and the front housing in order to help hold the belt in place while he positioned it on each sprocket. Not a bad idea in my mind, but be sure you don't leave any remnants behind.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 08:28 PM
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Cut a piece of plywood to protect the rad fins, it is slightly tricky getting the pin in the crank and the puller on the pin. once on, all is good.

Change your differential fluid too, real easy.

I've SLOWLY worked the tensionor up on the block. It WILL go, just a few turns on each bolt and watch the belt with the pulley as the tensioner tightens up. Take your time, feel the two bolts as you tighten, restart if something is amiss. I've done about 5 of these this way. Compressing that thing is a bear, breaks pins and drill bits. This way is easier, take your time.

there's a timing belt how to on here, look for that. I use small needle nose vise grips to hold the belt to the timing gears. Work counter clock wise.

rotate the engine slowly, ensure nothing binds, get back to the timing marks. Repeat, if marks are a go and no bind, your good.

Here's a pic of the cam bolt coming out, if you look at the bottom, you'll see the wood. Never removed the rad.



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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 08:28 PM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BatCaveTrep View Post
Have a bench vise so you can decompress the tensioner.
Don't you mean Re-Compress the tensioner?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 08:59 PM
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Don't you mean Re-Compress the tensioner?
Yes.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Well, all went well. Tensioner, i did it in the car with longer bolts. Then swapped the proper ones back in. found it to be breaking and bending everything i tried to hold it with. Got everything back together, did the oil change and transmission service and the car ran like a champ! Ran a heck of a lot better then before. Went for a ride visited my cousin, went for a coffee and BAM! It puked all the anti-freeze right out the bottom. Got it to the shop again, lifted it on the hoist and it appears to be coming from behind the front cover No hoses leaking or rad dripping. So thinking back, i noticed the new water pump o-ring had a split in it. Noticed the old one did not, FANTASTIC! Guess who gets to do it ALL over again tomorrow after an 8 hour shift of pulling wrenches.....
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 09:56 PM
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That sucks
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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That sucks
Yes sir. But up until it started leaking, it ran like a CHAMP! Hasnt ran that good since i got it. Shifts are way better, not so laggy. and the performance feel is back
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Jackfish View Post
Well, all went well. Tensioner, i did it in the car with longer bolts. Then swapped the proper ones back in. found it to be breaking and bending everything i tried to hold it with. Got everything back together, did the oil change and transmission service and the car ran like a champ! Ran a heck of a lot better then before. Went for a ride visited my cousin, went for a coffee and BAM! It puked all the anti-freeze right out the bottom. Got it to the shop again, lifted it on the hoist and it appears to be coming from behind the front cover No hoses leaking or rad dripping. So thinking back, i noticed the new water pump o-ring had a split in it. Noticed the old one did not, FANTASTIC! Guess who gets to do it ALL over again tomorrow after an 8 hour shift of pulling wrenches.....
>.< Ouch.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Well, first time i disassembled it took me about 2.5 hours. Today, i have it out i 45 minutes HA! Parts store is covering a new water pump and all the antifreeze, SCORE! Put it all together tomorrow after another 8 hour, wrench pulling shift. The life of a mechanic never ends eh?
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