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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Question Need help and advice...

So I have decided I want to add flexible LED strips along the top edge of my headlights...300M Special. Now, I searched all over here but could not specifically find where anyone has done this or how. I tend to drive with fog lights on always and headlights only when dark. I would want the LED's on all the time so I do not know whether to wire them to the fogs, since I have them all the time, or to the front parking lights, because those are always on in order to have fogs on, or if they can be wired to the ignition or some other source that always gets power when the car is on. If they go to the fogs, would that be too much power for the LED's? If they go to the parking lights, would that cause the LED's to flash with the signal?...I do NOT want that. Or is there something that can easily be tapped into that is on every single time I start the car? Advice, thoughts and especially experiences would be hugely appreciated.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 12:41 AM
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With my spyder halos I wired the LED's to the parking lights so they turn on when they are turned on. I don't believe that they flash with the turning signals.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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With my spyder halos I wired the LED's to the parking lights so they turn on when they are turned on. I don't believe that they flash with the turning signals.
I haven't looked yet, but are there separate wires for the parking light feature and the signal feature going into the single socket for the bulb there? That way I could just tap into the parking light wire itself and not have the signal wire affect it? Is this what you did, and am I making sense? lol
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 12:57 AM
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I haven't looked yet, but are there separate wires for the parking light feature and the signal feature going into the single socket for the bulb there? That way I could just tap into the parking light wire itself and not have the signal wire affect it? Is this what you did, and am I making sense? lol
I can't exactly remember I just remember finding out which wire was for the parking lights. Hopefully a couple others here can shed some light on this situation! I know it is possible though!
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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I can't exactly remember I just remember finding out which wire was for the parking lights. Hopefully a couple others here can shed some light on this situation! I know it is possible though!
Hey, even knowing it's possible helps a lot, thank you!
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by FlyLikeAnEagle View Post
I haven't looked yet, but are there separate wires for the parking light feature and the signal feature going into the single socket for the bulb there? That way I could just tap into the parking light wire itself and not have the signal wire affect it? Is this what you did, and am I making sense? lol
Yes you can wire to the parking lights without the signal affecting it. The parking light has three wires going to it, running light power, turn signal power, and ground. Just tap into the running light power and ground and you're set. That's what I did for my headlight halos
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 01:24 AM Thread Starter
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Yes you can wire to the parking lights without the signal affecting it. The parking light has three wires going to it, running light power, turn signal power, and ground. Just tap into the running light power and ground and you're set. That's what I did for my headlight halos
That is exactly what I was hoping to hear!! I have been so busy with work and school I have not had time to look how it is wired, but this is what I was hoping for. Thank you. So how did the two of you, or anyone else reading this, decide to tap into this wire? I know there are a few ways to do it but not sure if any one way is better than another. And what is the easiest way to find which is the correct wire?
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 02:26 AM
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I just stripped a section of each wire and wrapped the leads around it then taped it. I tried using those little quick connects but they suck and couldn't make a good connection.

To find out which wire was for the turn and which was for the running light I just used a little probe tester like this...

attach it to a ground and poke the wire while your directional is on. If the light inside the probe is blinking you've got your turn signal wire, if it stays solid you've got your running light wire.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 03:08 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Xyth View Post
I just stripped a section of each wire and wrapped the leads around it then taped it. I tried using those little quick connects but they suck and couldn't make a good connection.

To find out which wire was for the turn and which was for the running light I just used a little probe tester like this...

attach it to a ground and poke the wire while your directional is on. If the light inside the probe is blinking you've got your turn signal wire, if it stays solid you've got your running light wire.
Awesome, thank you. Now I have to hunt down exactly which LED strips I am going to use.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 07:47 AM
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...I tried using those little quick connects but they suck and couldn't make a good connection...
I could be wrong, but it might be that you used the "blue" insulation displacement connectors and not the red ones. Most wires on our cars are smaller gages, and the red ones make reliable connections. Blue ones are for larger wires and definitely will make unreliable connections on the smaller wires. If the auto parts stores don't have the red ones, Radio Shack does.

You might want to go back and use a proper connector or solder the wires. Wrapping and taping is not reliable over the long run.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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I could be wrong, but it might be that you used the "blue" insulation displacement connectors and not the red ones. Most wires on our cars are smaller gages, and the red ones make reliable connections. Blue ones are for larger wires and definitely will make unreliable connections on the smaller wires. If the auto parts stores don't have the red ones, Radio Shack does.

You might want to go back and use a proper connector or solder the wires. Wrapping and taping is not reliable over the long run.
I'll keep this advice in mind when I get to that point, thank you. It would be nice to have the convenience of using these, but only if they are the right ones and work properly.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 06:10 PM
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I could be wrong, but it might be that you used the "blue" insulation displacement connectors and not the red ones. Most wires on our cars are smaller gages, and the red ones make reliable connections. Blue ones are for larger wires and definitely will make unreliable connections on the smaller wires. If the auto parts stores don't have the red ones, Radio Shack does.

You might want to go back and use a proper connector or solder the wires. Wrapping and taping is not reliable over the long run.
Good info to know thanks, the one's i used were the blue ones that came with the lights so that was probably my problem.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 06:14 PM
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Good info to know thanks, the one's i used were the blue ones that came with the lights so that was probably my problem.
Glad to help. Almost certainly the problem.

For reference, red is for 18 to 22 ga. Blue is for 18 to 14 ga. Yellow is for 12 ga. If matched properly, they are very reliable. If connections are not in the cabin, pack them with silicone (dielectric) grease before closing them on the wire to protect from water/corrosion. FSM schematics show the wire gage for every wire.

http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/pa..._ref_page_id=0

Last edited by peva; 03-28-2013 at 06:26 PM.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all very much, I can't wait to do this
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