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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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LED fogs

Been having an issue that's been annoying me!

I recently bought these from VLEDS for my fog lights: http://www.vleds.com/bulb/h-series/h...h3-1-pair.html

When I installed them they did not work. So i shot an email to VLEDS asking for advice.
They sent me this response:
"The LEDS are polarity Sensitive
We have seen on some Subaru and Nissan cars where one side works and the other side does not.
The issue is that the base of the LED is ground and the wire is positive.
If you could some way reverse the connections then polarity will be correct and the LEDS will light up."

So I opened them back up again and swapped the wires and they still wont light up.

Am i missing something? Need some advice!
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 10:32 PM
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test them directly of the +/- jump points on the passenger side of the engine
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 11:50 AM
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^ x2. If they don't work like this they are bummed. When I put LED's in my interior I thought the same then I "discovered" the polarity thing lol..
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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test them directly of the +/- jump points on the passenger side of the engine
How do I go about doing this exactly? Where do i touch the body of the led to ground it?
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 06:49 PM
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there should be some metal there you just ground it to that
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 07:39 PM
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I took a look at the link you provided. If you put that led in the fog light like you do a normal fog light bulb, then there should be no polarity mixup. It is designed to work just like the regular bulb.

Just to make sure it is not your fuses or some broken wiring somewhere do the test off the jump point. If it is long enough, you could touch the male spade connector from the LED to the positive jump point right behind the passenger headlight, then touch the body of the LED to some nearby bare sheetmetal. I would think the bare steel bracket that the positive jump point plastic body is attached to should work. if it doesn't light up swap where you are touching the two connections

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Last edited by sc.intrepid; 07-21-2013 at 07:46 PM.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 09:01 PM
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fearing I was going to get you electrocuted. I went out with a normal fog light bulb and tried the positive jump post method I described above. I couldn't get a good enough connection touching the metal bracket the red plastic base is mounted to. I took a pigtail of wire and connected it to the spade connector. Pressing the square base of the bulb firmly against the side of the nut on either pos or neg terminal, I was able to touch the end of the pigtail to the other terminal and get the light to come on.

Of course with my regular bulb it lit up when connected either way. Your LED bulb will only light up with the correct polarity matched up

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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 09:03 PM
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Bzzzzzttt! Ooopps!
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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haha thanks for the info, i'll try this later this week when I get home and see if I can get em to light up.
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-26-2013, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so here's an update on this issue, still not solved -_-

I tested the LEDs on the battery and they light up fine so I know they're not duds.
The wire is positive and the metal on the back of the bulb is ground, just like OEM.
I checked my fuses and I had a blown 20A fuse at slot 16 I believe it was, which was for the fogs, so i celebrated and replaced it thinking it would fix them but no they still don't light up...

I have another issue which may or may not be related I'm not sure. My LED switchback turnsignals are malfunctioning. They work perfectly normal switching from white to amber flash when i put on my signal, except when I apply the brake then they turn back to white and stop flashing, while the turn signal indicator on my gauges continues to blink like normal. So people can only see my amber turn signals if i'm not braking which is a bit dangerous lol.

Is this an issue with my LED electronic flasher or is there a fuse blown somewhere that I'm not seeing? I recently swapped out the lights in my cluster with LED's including the turn signal indicator lights, could that have anything to do with it?
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-26-2013, 04:59 PM
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If i remember correctly when i tried leds in my fogs i had to reverse the polarity to get them to work but they sucked as far as light output due to the length of the bulb assembly being to long so i took them out.

Im not sure if this is your issue or not but i tested mine with 12v also off the battery and they worked fine just not wired to the car the way you think they should be.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-26-2013, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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If i remember correctly when i tried leds in my fogs i had to reverse the polarity to get them to work but they sucked as far as light output due to the length of the bulb assembly being to long so i took them out.

Im not sure if this is your issue or not but i tested mine with 12v also off the battery and they worked fine just not wired to the car the way you think they should be.
Okay, I'll try to reverse the polarity again now that I replaced that blown fuse. We'll see if that works. Thanks for the info.

Last edited by Xyth; 07-26-2013 at 10:41 PM.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-26-2013, 05:20 PM
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One of these days i will finish the mod i started to my fogs using 3157 5000k switchbacks wired to my signals which put out allot of light in 1st gen housings but iv been to lazy to go the yard to get the sockets with the wiring lol.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-26-2013, 05:23 PM
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it seems that putting in the LED's is too much of a hassle..
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-26-2013, 05:32 PM
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After trying it myself i have to agree but honestly after i got my switchback test fitted into one of my fogs i was really happy with the light output and the fact that they will be an extra signal is pretty cool to.
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