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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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LED in Auto headlight switch mod

I finally got around to making my auto headlight switch blue like the rest of the interior lights.

What I did was use the LED holders from the ATC, and used 5mm blue LEDs with 470-Ohm resistors that I had lying around. The stock smaller 330 bulb is easy to remove from the gray holder. The resistor is part number 271-1115 from radio shack, but you can use any suitable resistor. The LEDs are Blue, High Output, 5mm T-1 3/4, Water Clear Lens from ebay seller campber. USA based for faster shipment.



I then put the LED into the holder first, and then soldered the resistor to the cathode side of the LED. The cathode side has the bigger side of the LED called the anvil.







As you'll see in the pics, the part that makes contact with the headlight switch comes after the resistor, and not before it. Put a small piece of electrical tape (not pictured) over the LED bases to secure them to the headlight switch.

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 03:30 PM
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 03:37 PM
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I applaud your ingenuity here, but do you realize that you can buy LEDs that just fit the sockets? I would still go a route like yours if for some reason I couldn't get the LEDs I wanted in the pre built sockets.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/i...cluster-gauge/
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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As for the other lights, here's what was done:

#1. ATC: 4 blue LEDs with built in resistors and 3 coats of blue window tint. Purchased from superbrightleds.com. Part number 74-x No base used, just soldered directly to the ATC contact points.



#2. OTIS: Same as above. 3 layers of blue window tint over the display. The OTIS takes 3 LEDS. I used the same #74's as I used in the ATC and soldered them directly to the contact points.



#3 Gauge Cluster: 3 layers of blue window tint over the shift position and mileage displays. I de-soldered most of the factory 3-5mm LEDs and installed blue ones. There are six 194 bulbs in the cluster to illuminate the gauges, another two for the turn signals, 1 for the cruise, and 1 for the traction control if you have it. The indicator lights are 3mm and 5mm LEDs soldered directly to the board. There are twelve of these total. All 194 stock bulbs were replaced with blue 194 wedge type. I got mine from ebay seller hi-autopia. Link here.

The 5mm LEDs used were the same Blue, High Output, 5mm T-1 3/4, Water Clear Lens from ebay seller campber that I used for the ATC. They can be had for cheaper than what I paid by purchasing from an over seas seller.



For the 3-5mm LEDs, I left the coolant, gas, and wiper fluid LEDs the stock orange color, but changed all the others to blue. No need for resistors on these. You can use the standard 5mm blue type like the ones I purchased from ebay seller campber.





#4. Lighted key ring: See here.

#5 Shifter Bezel: I still need to do the shifter bezel. Mine is still stock. Details on this here.



I haven't done the needle mod yet as seen here.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 03:57 PM
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I know I can probably find this searching but, I got like five auto-headlight switches laying around from 98-04 models. None of mine freaking illuminate, even when I install bulbs.

Did you route a wire on the harness of the head light switch, or modify the switch itself? Seems off Chrysler put all the guts and goods there to illuminate them and skip a step?
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainMorgan View Post
I applaud your ingenuity here, but do you realize that you can buy LEDs that just fit the sockets? I would still go a route like yours if for some reason I couldn't get the LEDs I wanted in the pre built sockets.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/i...cluster-gauge/
I know, I happened to have the 5mm and resistors lying around so I just went that route. The NEOx LED bulbs already in the base will work also and are a direct swap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SRT6INTREPID View Post
I know I can probably find this searching but, I got like five auto-headlight switches laying around from 98-04 models. None of mine freaking illuminate, even when I install bulbs.

Did you route a wire on the harness of the head light switch, or modify the switch itself? Seems off Chrysler put all the guts and goods there to illuminate them and skip a step?
What year car are you trying them in? Do any of them have stock bulbs in them when they were removed? Are you using stock bulbs with the key turned to ON/RUN position and the headlight switch turned on? Reversing the polarity? Not sure what variables effect what, but that is how I tested mine when I did this mod. Auto-headlight switches from certain models didn't come with bulbs (02-04) and I think the harnesses on 02-04 may be missing a wire as well. I have an 04 auto-headlight switch and it won't illuminate when I use it in my 2000. Not sure if the switch is faulty or if the internal wiring is such that the stock harness from my 2000 doesn't make it light. The auto headlight switch that I purchased from a member on here long ago (not sure what year it came out of) works just fine. If I wiggle the circuit board on this one however, the lights cut off and on even with the lights themselves securely fastened, so the design of the switch itself seems rather poor and something is loose. I had to tape the circuit board down to keep the LEDs illuminated. The wiring pin outs of 98-01 vs 02-04 will tell if there is any difference. I need to take a look.

Last edited by primetime; 08-25-2013 at 04:24 PM.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
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I know, I happened to have the 5mm and resistors lying around so I just went that route. The NEOx LED bulbs already in the base will work also and are a direct swap.
That's what I guessed. I'm always a fan of using parts on hand. I just used a relay to reverse the action of a momentary switch instead of ordering a new one.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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That's what I guessed. I'm always a fan of using parts on hand. I just used a relay to reverse the action of a momentary switch instead of ordering a new one.
Ya, it looks like the ones that have the 330 bulb base from superbright (#5 and #6 from the link) don't have built in resistors. A standard 5mm LED when tried directly on the headlight switch without the resistor shorted right out as expected.

I picked up a bezzel that has the traction control button so now I just need to get that lit up and find a use for that button, as my car doesn't have traction control.

Last edited by primetime; 08-25-2013 at 04:38 PM.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by primetime View Post
Ya, it looks like the ones that have the 330 bulb base from superbright (#5 and #6 from the link) don't have built in resistors. A standard 5mm LED when tried directly on the headlight switch without the resistor shorted right out as expected.

I picked up a bezzel that has the traction control button so now I just need to get that lit up and find a use for that button, as my car doesn't have traction control.
I don't have Trac either. The button is just there. For years I thought about giving it a purpose but I think I'm going to go the opposite route and get rid of it.

I find it interesting that the bulbs on superbright don't have built in resistors. I would think for this application that would be a must have.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have Trac either. The button is just there. For years I thought about giving it a purpose but I think I'm going to go the opposite route and get rid of it.

I find it interesting that the bulbs on superbright don't have built in resistors. I would think for this application that would be a must have.
Probably not needed for the smaller size 330 bulb replacement LED that is equal to stock, but 5mm would.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 08:47 PM
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Do you sand the l.e.d bulbs before installing them ? Brando, who changed my interior lighting said that sanding them first will distribute the light evenly, snd you wont have any spots that are brighter than others. Look at my page under 300m and see if you can tell the difference. Looks Great tho .
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-26-2013, 03:29 AM
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One was from a pre 02 300M, it had bulbs, the one I got now didn't have bulbs installed. Running a 2003 car.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-26-2013, 03:41 AM
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Do you sand the l.e.d bulbs before installing them ? Brando, who changed my interior lighting said that sanding them first will distribute the light evenly, snd you wont have any spots that are brighter than others. Look at my page under 300m and see if you can tell the difference. Looks Great tho .
It depends on the LED style. That's an easy tip to help difuse light, but if you get a wide angle LED it's mnot needed.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-26-2013, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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One was from a pre 02 300M, it had bulbs, the one I got now didn't have bulbs installed. Running a 2003 car.
The post 2001 plug may be the issue. You may need to run an illumination wire, Easiest thing would be to go to a yard and compare the plug in a pre 02 to the one you have.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I turned on my fogs and that little indicator on the lower left part of the switch is lighting up green instead of blue! Damn it, now I have to take the switch apart.
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