battery to the trunk - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-27-2005, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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battery to the trunk

hey if i got the battery and box
but i dont have the cables if i got to a audio shop and get like a 4gauge cable and run it to a 80 amp fuse then hook it up with all the right connections is that all i need or do i need to do other stuff?
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post #2 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-27-2005, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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also i was looking at sounddomain and i was thinkin would i be able to use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse if i used a 100 amp circuit breaker would that work
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post #3 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-27-2005, 10:13 PM
 
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4 Gauge isn't enough to run the battery to the trunk. The longer the wire, the more the voltage drop you have (if you do audio, you should know this). You need to run 2 gauge or bigger and you really don't need a fuse as long as you grommet all of your passthroughs.
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post #4 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-27-2005, 10:35 PM
 
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i dunno.... 4 gauge can run a constant 140 amps.......
i think it would be fine.......
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post #5 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-27-2005, 10:36 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellsspawn
i dunno.... 4 gauge can run a constant 140 amps.......
i think it would be fine.......
Its not running the car that is the problem. The starter can draw well over 200 amps when trying to start the car. As a matter of fact, just a few days ago, I did a starter check on an Intrepid at work...the starter drew over 230 amps while trying to kick the car over.
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post #6 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-27-2005, 11:06 PM
 
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what i did was put another battery in the trunk then run the hot wire to the front of the car and hook it up to the front battery you will run 2 batterys together.i needed more amps to my amp in the trunk, so i did this works great.at the same time the battery in the trunk will get charged when the engine is on.
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post #7 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-27-2005, 11:53 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sal2990
what i did was put another battery in the trunk then run the hot wire to the front of the car and hook it up to the front battery you will run 2 batterys together.i needed more amps to my amp in the trunk, so i did this works great.at the same time the battery in the trunk will get charged when the engine is on.

Someone, please shield db from seeing that.
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post #8 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-28-2005, 12:52 AM
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Someone, please shield db from seeing that.
:laughing:
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post #9 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-28-2005, 01:05 AM
 
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someone please delete that mans post cuz db will flip
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post #10 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-28-2005, 01:49 AM Thread Starter
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k if youve noticed i want to move move my battery to the trunk
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post #11 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-28-2005, 09:57 AM
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I'm with 340duster - use bigger wire and make sure to grommet all your pass-throughs.

Lots of 1/4-mile racers put their battery in the trunk for better weight distribution and to make some room in the engine bay. It's a common technique to get the weight off the front wheels and onto the rear wheels where it'll do some good. Usually it's installed on the passenger side to somewhat offset the driver's weight for left-right balance. Personally, I'd use a gel battery (Optima) if I did it in the Trep so I wouldn't have to worry about acid fumes. Either that or get a sealed box and make an outside vent for it ...

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post #12 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-28-2005, 10:45 AM
 
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i guess youre right about the amperage on start up....
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post #13 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-29-2005, 01:42 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellsspawn
i guess youre right about the amperage on start up....
Those of us from the north know full well about how many amps it takes to crank an engine cause we buy our batteries based on CCA's (Cold Cranking Amps), which is the actual amps you're getting when your balls are freezing off.

**EDIT**
By "north" I meant when I was living in MN, I don't think people here in Kansas and Missouri worry that much about it.
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post #14 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-29-2005, 02:33 PM
 
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You want to run 2AWG at a minimum. Under cranking load you're talking a lot of current and over that much distance you can have quite a bit of voltage loss if the wire is too small. And ALWAYS fuse a wire that runs that kind of distance. You can use a fusable link (will be very difficult to solder in line) or get yourself a 300A inline fuse. IMHO, there is simply too much risk of running a wire with that much current capacity the length of your car with no protection. All it takes a nick in the insulation and you could watch the car burn to a crisp. It's amazing the amount of heat that will built up in a fraction of a second when you short something with that much current potential and something like 2AWG or 1/0AWG isn't going to simply burn in two very quickly. Always better safe than sorry... ;)
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post #15 of 74 (permalink) Old 08-29-2005, 02:38 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sal2990
what i did was put another battery in the trunk then run the hot wire to the front of the car and hook it up to the front battery you will run 2 batterys together.i needed more amps to my amp in the trunk, so i did this works great.at the same time the battery in the trunk will get charged when the engine is on.
If you really think wasting your money on a second battery is helping you I have this awsome island out in the Bahamas I'll sell you for $5. The only thing a second battery will do is provide you extra time to play the stereo once the car is shut off and if installed right prevent you from killing your main starting battery. And by installed right the second battery must be isolated from the main battery when the vehicle is turned off. When the car is running a battery is nothing more than an additional draw...
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