Speedhut Guages - Install Clarification - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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Speedhut Guages - Install Clarification

I didn't find the answer in the threads I looked through. I would have looked through more but I'm at work and can't spend all day reading (I have to get some work done ).

I'm planning to finally install my Speedhut guages this weekend. I read the How-To (which is very good, well done romeo).

https://dodgeintrepid.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48408

I have just a couple of clarification questions.

1) One of the steps is to cut a slit in the factory guages. What is the purpose of this? Looking at the pics I don't see anything going through the factory guages. It says "NOT DONE YET!! you must now make a passage for the clip to go through. the slit you just cut will be the top of the T- shape cut that you need, so cut down toward the needle and test to see if the clip will pass, only cut what you need, not too much. it really wont make much diference, but you dont want them too sliced up."

What "clip" is being referred to here? What "T-shape" cut?

2) Where is a good point to ground?


That's it.

TIA,
^chase
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 12:41 PM
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if you have your gauges out, you will notice the dials are recessed into the bezel.... this will cause the needles NOT to move if you just lay them ontop of the bezel. SO you have to cut a T shape cut into the factory gauge.... this will allow the "connection clip/wires" from the aftermarket gauges to slide through..... now the aftermarket gauges can lay flat on top of the factory gauges.
a good ground is right under the fuse panel on the left side of the dash, simply drill a hole on the flat spot, and mount the ground there.
look here between the 4 and 4.5 mark... you can barely see it, but there is the TOP of the T slit.


Last edited by r0meo021; 09-08-2005 at 01:25 PM.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 02:06 PM
 
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still waiting for mine to show up......
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01redMS
still waiting for mine to show up......
When did you order them?
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 03:41 PM
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warlord.... did that clarify things? im in a knee brace, stuck at home for 2-4 more weeks, so if you need anything, just post and i will reply as soon as i can.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0meo021
warlord.... did that clarify things? im in a knee brace, stuck at home for 2-4 more weeks, so if you need anything, just post and i will reply as soon as i can.
Yes and no. I have a better understanding, but I think it will become even more clear once I do the install.

The "connection/clip wires", are those the two red things that came with the Speedhut guages?

Thanks.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 05:19 PM
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no there should be a clip between the gauges and the transformer... the press and release clip is what i am referring to.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0meo021
no there should be a clip between the gauges and the transformer... the press and release clip is what i am referring to.

Oh, ok. Those clips are already part of the cluster.

Two "clips" came with the Speedhut guages and I have no idea what they are for. They just "press" closed, so that is why I thought you were referring to them.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 06:47 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlord187
Two "clips" came with the Speedhut guages and I have no idea what they are for. They just "press" closed, so that is why I thought you were referring to them.

Those are "scotch locks" they are used to splice a wire into an already exsisting wire to tap into it, this is used for tapping into the factory harness for powering the gauges.

I went the route of cutting the gauge to run the wires behind the gauge(one of the four) but found it was simplier to simply use electrical tape and cover the wire and have it layed over the top of the gauge face. My main logic is being that it was alot easier to install and I wouldn't have to worry about the hole being ripped open more from the install.

For the ground I thing I found a bolt that was right next to where the factory headlight plug is and simply looped it around the bolt and screwed it down.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sport/SoundEdition
Those are "scotch locks" they are used to splice a wire into an already exsisting wire to tap into it, this is used for tapping into the factory harness for powering the gauges.

I went the route of cutting the gauge to run the wires behind the gauge(one of the four) but found it was simplier to simply use electrical tape and cover the wire and have it layed over the top of the gauge face. My main logic is being that it was alot easier to install and I wouldn't have to worry about the hole being ripped open more from the install.

For the ground I thing I found a bolt that was right next to where the factory headlight plug is and simply looped it around the bolt and screwed it down.
does yours not have the lip in it?... i tried to go over it, and my gauge needle would stick right where the part went over.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 09:23 PM
 
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yea mine did but I ended up having to remove all the needles for the install I simply set them so they sat higher, if all else failed it wouldn't be too hard to sand then end till it cleared.


On a side note, If you went with reverse glow and you don't have a large glowing halo like area at the center of your gauge you will need to leave the factory bulbs in, otherwise your needles won't glow.

Like mine, I had to leave the bulbs in cause there was nothing to light needle up with:

{click for bigger pic}

In the pic you can see where I cut the surround for the wire to go, I did it at the edge where the edge of the white was but ended up cutting a lil more and thus the light ball, now this is easily fixed with lil electrical tape like the others I've yet to do it and take a pic.

The way Romeo is saying to do it is inset in the white basicly right under where the wire goes into the gauge overlay itself, the "T" cut is so you can pull the flaps up to get the lil connector thru the whole since it's a big lil bugger. Only thing that Romeo didn't know (but it would only be thur keen/obsessive observations) is that on some of the gauges(center ones) the wires come off going away from each other and some come off going towards each other (it's 10-2 verses 2-10)....... god I hope this makes sense to somebody....
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 09:47 PM
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the 4-4.5 thing is just where i cut mine... its easier when they come away from each other... i didnt like that part. lol, it took me a few times reading it to get what you meant, but it finally made sense. IM BLONDE!

also, you dont really need the T, if you cut the wires and then splice them back together

AND,...all gauge changed require that you leave the factory lights in, it is the ONLY thing that keeps the needles lit

Last edited by r0meo021; 09-08-2005 at 09:51 PM.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 10:15 PM
 
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I installed mine a while back but I haven't driven it yet cuz i'm swapping engines.. i'm still stumped on how to calibrate the guages... I know how to do the diagnostics test where u let them do thier lil dance but do u have to take off the needles and set them back on a way as to make them align or what?
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-08-2005, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUTTAZTREP
I installed mine a while back but I haven't driven it yet cuz i'm swapping engines.. i'm still stumped on how to calibrate the guages... I know how to do the diagnostics test where u let them do thier lil dance but do u have to take off the needles and set them back on a way as to make them align or what?
well, its kinda like trial and error... on the diagnostic, at one point the needles should all be at halfway, and if they arent, remove them and adjust them accordingly
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-09-2005, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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For the placement of the needles, I'm going to do the diagnosis before attempting the mod and recording their position at each level. Than when the mod is done, I will run the diagnosis again to make sure their position is the same as before.
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