3.2 engine (woes) - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2013, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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3.2 engine (woes)

Hello treppers: ok, here's my latest update. I pulled the 3.2 back out of my '01 trep, pulled the pan, and to my tremendous relief, NOTHING!!! So, I now believe that when I zinged the engine to 5200 rpm, I might have floated a valve, due to one or more rockers collapsing and the retainer clips breaking, allowing the steel valvestem discs to dislodge and get into the valvetrain, hence all the ungodly racket my engine was making. Gonna pull the covers off
tomorrow, and verify my suspicions. Also, the rear main seal housing I had to put on when I rebuilt this motor is different than the original (no seal strip on the oil pan mating surface): do
I need to get a different oil pan gasket, instead of trying to use a piece of gasket paper (miserable failure)? If so, if somebody can post a part number, I would be most appreciative.
Thanks again, and I really enjoy being a member of this forum.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2013, 07:07 PM
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Check out the photos in these 2 threads - same thing in two separate engines - may be what you'll find?:

http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=29668

http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=29368
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2013, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick reply: the more I think about what I was hearing, and reading the posts/looking at the photos you referred me to, I think it's gonna be the same thing as I saw in the pics. Well, it's good to know that a little topside work will get this thing straight again. I'll keep y'all posted, with some pics as to what I find. Also, any info on the oil pan gasket question will be appreciated. Thanks again.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-02-2013, 05:52 AM
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Yikes that's nasty! Wonder what caused those rockers to shatter, must have been material defects?

Well, look at it this way! Top end issues are a hell of a lot cheaper to fix and easier, as it seems in all my experience, bottom end failure writes the whole engine off.

I just started stripping a Dodge 2.4L that just threw a rod through BOTH sides of the block, taking out the bed pan and oil pan. Twisted the piston inside the cylinder and rammed it into the head. engine is a total write off. Wrist pin and rod cap let go due to improperly torqued hardened bolts added to a high mileage motor that was boosted from a 250KM 15PSI life to 30 PSI. Stock internals... Sigh

Worst part? It started and ran... Mopar or no car.

In the case of your rockers doing what we're seeing in those links, if the heads are not cracked, not leaking, and have not damaged the cams, I'd just swap the rockers and try it out. I believe you'll find you have pivot pads just bouncing around from broken plastic retainers.

As far as the gasket. A factory replacement steel one with the rubber not applicable? FSM calls for a RTV sealant on the four corners, where the rear crank seal and oil pump meet the block.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-02-2013, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Well, thanks for all the speedy replies and suggestions. I finally got a chance to examine the engine today
at length: the number two con rod bearing was totally wiped out, so I'll be having a conversation with the machine shop on Monday, cuz there's no way that should have happened with just a little over 1k miles since the rebuild. Don't know if the rod journal was egg-shaped (shop did polish all journals, but didn't say
they found anything out of the ordinary tho' it now seems that SOMETHING was off) . Any suggestions on what else could be wrong (so I can keep this from repeating)?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-02-2013, 08:22 PM
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Garage
for some reason I do recall #2 rod bearing and I think #5 rod bearing was the other one are the mostly likely to spin or have damage from contamination due to a failure. I've seen it on two identical engines that were torn down in hopes of building one good engine on a budget. Were the oil passages in the crankshaft and block cleaned out before reassembly?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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I did clean the block, including chasing all bolt holes and blowing out passages with compressed air: this time though, I'm not gonna use just compressed air, I'm gonna get a set of engine cleaning brushes that will allow me to actually run through the galleys (probably should have done that to begin with), cuz it's possible there was something baked/caked in the crank that the compressed air didn't dislodge, and it came loose after being soaked with oil from normal engine operation. I'll be using brake cleaner along with the brush treatment, which I'll also do with the crank kit after I purchase it as well. I'll keep y'all posted.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2013, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Hello: update on 3.2. I'm gonna have to tear it back down to bare block to clean the oil galleys out and make sure there's no metal shavings anywhere, and then put it back together again. There's one good
lesson I learned from all this: when you have machine shop work done, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE go
over their work and recheck tolerances/clearances. I think the #2 rod journal was out of round, which caused the failure of the bearing. The tolerance is only .0006, which is very small, and a polish won't necessarily get rid of an out of round condition. So, I'm gonna do it again, and this time go with a reground crank kit, which, in hindsight, I probably should have done to begin with. Let this be a lesson to anyone attempting diy engine build/rebuild. It can be done successfully, but take your time and be
thorough.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Hello again, treppers. It's been quite a while since I last posted anything. Last time I posted (in December)
I was relating my engine woes (spun #2 rod bearing on 3.2 rebuild). Well, I found out what went wrong: seems that I had the rod cap on the wrong way, with the bearing insert tangs being on opposite sides of the rod instead of the same side, which left them free to spin (it's a wonder it didn't happen before 1,000 miles) and wreak havoc. While I'm embarrassed by such a mistake, at the same time I'm glad to know what really happened, cuz before I discovered my mistake, I was really concerned about what could have caused such a failure. It had good oil pressure, in fact, after the bearing spun, the oil light still wasn't coming on. I checked the oil passages in the crank and they were all clear, so it was really
causing me some consternation, but since I discovered my blunder, I can now with a clear mind redo this thing the RIGHT WAY and know that this in all likelihood WILL NOT HAPPEN AGAIN. So, I'm back on the trail of getting this done and enjoying my ride. I'll keep y'all posted on my progress.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2014, 01:29 AM
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It happens! Good to lesson to be learned for everyone building.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Hey treppers: as promised, here's an update. Today I went and purchased a reground crank kit w/bearings
so now I'm gonna finish the disassembly process and get ev'rything cleaned up so I can get this beast back together. I do have a question: when I built this the first time, I had to buy the new/redesigned rear main seal housing w/seal. I noticed that it doesn't have the rubber strip seal on the surface where the rear of the oil pan sits on it like the original did. Any suggestions on what to use/how to seal? I believe there are two part numbers: 4663870 and
4663870AC. If these are two separate and valid part numbers, what is the difference between
them, and are they both available?

Last edited by joeljenkins; 04-28-2014 at 09:41 PM. Reason: additional information
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