When replacing all gaskets in a 3.2/5L..... - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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When replacing all gaskets in a 3.2/5L.....

Im puting new felpro gaskets rear main seal,rear mainseal retainers backing plate seals(2), thermostat, and gasket, oil pan, valve cover gaskets seals, sparkplug tube seals(6), egr flange gasket, egr tube gasket, egr circular tube -to- plenum gaskets(2), upper, and lower intake gaskets,throttle body gasket, exaust manifold gaskets (hard as hell to find,lol, I got them tho),, Now heres the thing, since the front timing gear is bitch, and I already practiced the removal of this procedure on my old 3.2L block that still had the oil pump housing, and timing oil gear as well, I broke a bolt in one of the two threaded holes(9-o'clock, + 3-o'clock), with a timing gear puller, so I dunno, If I should risk this on the new motor?, also If you remove the gear from the shaft, will you hav eto reset the top dead center mark from the pump housing withe the piston 1 on top dead center with a rod/stick in the spark plug hole on piston 1?, or is there a groove on the shaft that fits rite on the the timing gear it self?, or...?, I wanted to know should I remove the front crankshaft seal? Im doing the rest of the engine minus the headgaskets, since there good "Knock On Wood", because im going with full synthetic motor oil, and plus the oil pan gasket is a BitCH to get at while it needs service to replace the gasket, so as the rear seal, such, and such....., wat do u guys think?, and procedure for removing and installing the rear main seal?, that part is critical, due to leaks, such and such,any help would be great,The motor has 74,000 miles. Its a 2001 Chrysler 300M 3.5L H.O., I have a new water pump on handy, and timing belt as well, so wachu guys think?,


Thanks!


;)

Luie

Last edited by luisa; 10-30-2006 at 10:58 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 11:54 AM
 
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not to nit-pick, but if you could edit your first post into sentances and paragraphs it would be loads easier to read and might get some technically helpful responses.......
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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im typin at work bro, when not suppossed to, so, just to clarify, sorry for the long paragraph, lol
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 12:50 PM
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The main crankshaft pulley has a small pin that locates it on the shaft, so it will only install back into the same position.

While your at it, you might as well change the front seal and oil pump gasket. Couldnt hurt.

The rear main is removed by dropping the oil pan and removing the 6 or so bolts that hold the seal retainer to the block. Of course, the engine has to be out for this. (assuming it is already) Then it is a matter of replacing the seal in the seal retainer. Make sure you get it straight. There is a gasket too behind the seal retainer.


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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the front oil gear is a pita to remove, I have a timing gear puller, and practiced on my old 3.2L oil pump gear,a nd fucker broke a bolt in one of the gears, wtf?, do the threads have to be in deeper?,or is there only one kind of special puller for this?.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luisa
the front oil gear is a pita to remove, I have a timing gear puller, and practiced on my old 3.2L oil pump gear,a nd fucker broke a bolt in one of the gears, wtf?, do the threads have to be in deeper?,or is there only one kind of special puller for this?.

Harmonic balancer puller or crow-foot puller will work fine. There is not really a special one for this. Just use grade 8 bolts and get them as short as possible with as much thread into the pulley, so they wont bend or break when you are using the puller.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-02-2006, 10:36 PM
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I used a 2 bolt puller for this available from autozone. Worked great. However I did have to get some shorter bolts and it took a helper to hold the 2 bolt puller still with a big adjustable wrench while I torques on it. Other then that it came out great, I just need to evolve that third arm and make sure it doesn't come out like a dolphin flipper.

I have had to pull my freshly rebuilt engine because the rear seal was not properly seated and the lesson I learned was to look at the damn thing before I tightened the bolts and make sure the seal was centered. These cars have a "floating" rear main plate which means there are no stops to set it in the exact right spot so you have to just eye ball it and make sure there is not so much as a hair gap on any side.

I did replace the front seal with the engine in the car a few weeks ago. It was not bad. The problem was when I built the engine I only drove the seal in flush. It actually goes about an eight of an inch deeper then flush, so make sure you get that right.

You basically need to pull the engine if you want to do everything you are talking about doing and do it right.

The rear main seal in itselfe damn near requires it. Either the engine or the transmission has to go. On this car I would rather pull the engine.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-03-2006, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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thanks guys for your help, ;),
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-03-2006, 08:09 AM
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btw you might as well go ahead and underdrive it while you are at it. That is it underdrive is something that appeals to you.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-03-2006, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
 
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dont have the money for it now...
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