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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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"requires relays"

So I've been planning to install a remote starter in my Trep, and have noticed on the wiring diagrams (and some other comments) that when connecting certain wires like alarm arm/disarm, it mentions something about relays.

For example, in the http://howto.dodgeintrepid.net/secon...ntrepid-2G.txt file:
Quote:
(use a double pulse to also unlock the doors), requires relays.
I do a fair bit with electronics/wiring, but this has me confused. Can anyone give me a better explanation?

Thanks!

Warren
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 03:23 PM
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It only mentions the relay for the horn part, and i just tapped in the back of the junction block for that. The only hard part was putting the resistors in for the lock and unlock, because they use the same wire, just different resistances. I bought one of the two-way remote starter and alarm systems and its great.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 03:36 PM
 
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so is there a seperate relay that the installers use for the tie in for the horn and alarm siren?, My alarm is a 2-way alarm/pager as well, my driver side horn isnt working, and my tie in for my alarm and O.E.M. Horn isnt sounding in sync(no even a honk...) hmm anyone?

Luie


(Sorry for the hi-jack, just had to ask, I have had this problem eversince I did m y swap!) ;)
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm yeah I guess I need to know that too! :-)

Also, for any of you electronic geniuses out there, for the unlock/lock I need 620ohm and 2.7kohm respectively... since I have a limited amount of these parts, I can make the 2.7kohm combonation exactly, but the closest I can get for 620ohm is 660ohm (2x330ohm)... is this close enough?
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 04:21 PM
 
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The 660 should work. Depending on the tolerance of the resistors you're using, they could even be really close to 620. I believe I have a pair of 1.2k in parallel for 600 and the actual measured value is like 610.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help!
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so here goes my next question for anyone who can help... My starter has a wire for Parking Light Output (either + or -, depends on jumper), and the wiring guide for the Trep says:
Quote:
parking lights . . . yellow*** . . . + . . . headlight switch
and the note:
Quote:
*** Use a 110 ohm resitor to ground (use a 220 ohm resistor to activate headlights and parking lights).
So being as the diagram indicates this is a pos(+) input, why is the note talking about connecting to the ground(-)? I'll make a quick diagram to show what I think this is supposed to mean, and perhaps someone can confirm it or explain what it should be instead.


Does this make sense? Or am I reading it totally wrong? It doesn't seem right to be hooking a ground up to the positive output on the remote system, no matter what amount of resistors on it...

Warren
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 06:41 PM
 
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I figured out how the parking light circuit works, but it is very confusing. The switch sends a signal, probably to the BCM, rather than just mechanically removing or applying voltage to the lights.

If I rember correctly, when the switch is off, there is +12v on the parking light wire. When you tun the switch on, it connects that wire to ground with a resistance. The resistance varies as you turn the switch which is why you have one vlaue for the parking and another for the headlights. I also found that there is another resistance value to turn on the fogs.

I don't think I have that completely right, but it was along those lines. I found that I needed a relay to bypass the switch while the remote start was activated and it was going to be a big pain. I just decided at that point to get everything else working and I'd revisit it. That was a year ago and I still haven't bothered to mess with the parking lights! It's not a big deal for me at all really because if I have the lights on auto they'll come on when it starts anyway. I don't get the flashing lights when the alarm is armed, but that doesn't bother me either. Good luck with it.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 06:54 PM
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I just did it in the parking light wire. Just used the parts the kit came with except the relay and two resistors from radioshack. Its only confusing mainly because of how all the modules are wired in the trep, Don't forget if you have skim, you need that extra kit to bypass it.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so you say you used a relay somehow? Can you possibly give me a diagram of what you did? And no, I've got the black key, so no need for a bypass (if that's what you meant).
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 08:21 PM
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No I used everything but the relay. Pretty sure the only thing close to a relay that I used is the start bypass module that they have, but its not a regular relay. You have to look at it acouple of times before you can figure it out because of the whole way the car is set up.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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All right, well I'll play around with it and try not to fry anything!
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2007, 10:57 AM
 
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Relays are used to protect the alarm/rs brain as most of the outputs not involved in the ignition/starter are low current 100-200ma so you use a relay to turn on the high current that is is connected to.

If anyone doesn't understand how a relay works imagine using an RC controlled robot to connect a high voltage power line the relay is the robot turning the high voltage on when told to by a much lower signal in this case the rs brain's output.

In the case of the horn and siren usually the siren has a low current draw that the brain can support but hook it directly to your horns and it could burn the rs/brain with the current draw from the horns.

More on relays:
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2007, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
If I rember correctly, when the switch is off, there is +12v on the parking light wire. When you tun the switch on, it connects that wire to ground with a resistance.
Just took a closer look at the wording on the note for the Parking Lights wire, and it seems that yes, depending on resistance either the parking lights will be on (110ohm gnd), both parking lights AND headlights (220ohm gnd), or neither (no gnd). Still kinda confusing since it says this is a pos (+) input, and if you're correct, 00r/t.mopar.muscle, about the wire showing +12V when all lights OFF, wouldn't grounding the wire with the resistor still cause a short / blown fuse?

Code:
Yellow:          P/L:    H/L:
(-)gnd (110ohm)  on      off
(-)gnd (220ohm)  on      on 
(+)12V           off     off
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2007, 11:12 PM
 
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it says that if 12 volts are put into the wire that no lights will be on, not saying that the wire puts out 12 volts or is constant. grounding the wire negates the postive, would be my guess but hold on ill get a better diagram.

Parking Lights+ black/yellow + driver kick panel
Parking Lights- yellow headlight switch
Notes: Use a 110 ohm resistor to ground (-) for parking lights and a 220 ohm resistor to ground (-) will do both headlights and parking lights.

to make matters worse for an 03 it says that if u go into the driver kick no resistance is required and it does take a 12 volt signal.
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