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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2007, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
 
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Brake Upgrade?

I have got new 18's for my Intrepid, and was wondering if anyone makes a brake upgrade kit for our cars. I have not been able to find any online for either the Intrepid or the 300M. Buth I Have found some for the Stratus and Sebring....

Can those be put on or modified to our cars? And if so, how much work would it be?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-28-2007, 02:37 PM
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There's on for 2gs+ floating somewhere on here.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-28-2007, 04:01 PM
 
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-28-2007, 09:37 PM
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damn....2 grand? Will that work directly on my 00' r/t? Might be worth it since I'm tired of warping rotors so fast and the fade also suckx it!
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2007, 12:09 PM
 
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It should be the same for the R/T. What exactly are you doing to the car to get fade? I consider myself hard on the brakes and never get fade, or warping for that matter. Although I do tend to replace my brakes every spring regardless if it needs them or not.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2007, 02:42 PM
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a '00 RT doesn't have EBD, the rear brakes will never ever fade. even an '02 EBD will fade only AFTER the fronts have long been toast.

The fronts can overheat (that is why the police intrepid had a retrofit brake cooling duct)
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2007, 04:18 PM
 
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True, the fronts can certainly overheat. But if the fronts are overheating, you are either punishing the shit out of them, or you are using shitty pads/rotors. If ARedTrepRT is using shitty stuff, than an easy (and inexpensive) fix is to use better pads/rotors. Now if ARedTrepRT is using quality stuff and punishing the shit of them, well, that is a different fix.

EDIT: This is assuming your braking system is in good condition. If you have a stuck caliper or something else broke, than that could cause overheating too.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2007, 04:21 PM
 
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or your rear brake proportioning valves are not working like they should, or just not up to par!,
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 01:00 AM
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well, I got my car with about 46000 miles on it...brakes worked fine, no warping feel in the pedal, no squeeking noise telling me to replace pads, etc....drove it for over a year maybe 2 without problems...I am NOT hard on brakes at all...I usually get around 40000 on pads or close to that...I bought my previous vechicle, a 1996 s-10 brand new and didn't have to replace the pads until almost 46000 miles...and I do occasionally drive hard, but not much.....anyhow, back to the trep...I started hearing a faint scraping noise coming from the passenger front brake area....I worked at a factory at the time and worked 12 or 16 hour shifts and didn't have time to change the brakes...after 3 days of driving it got alot louder and worse feeling...well, finally took the trep to get brakes and the guy shows me the pads, or lack of a pad on the passenger side...the pad was basically not left and barely any metal shoe of the pad either...the caliper was locked on that side and the drivers side still had some pad left and just needed to be changed soon...the rears were fine still...anyhow, he put on new calipers, factory dodge on both sides, factory dodge r/t rotors, and some carbon/ceramic pads, bled the fluid and filled with new, checked lines, etc...basically re-built the passengers side with all new screws, springs, caliper, etc....that was at around 55,000 miles....at around 67000 I had to get new rotors again as they were feeling crappy when I pushed the brake pedal..u know that feeling of warped rotors, bump bump bump on your foot....well, I took it back to the same guy, my dads soccer buddy who owns his own auto repair business and jiffy lube in one big building....he showed me the rotor he had put on, it was cracked in 3 places and full of rust from the inside out...the pads were still good but I asked to be replaced anyhow since he gave me a good deal...so this time he used an aftermarket rotor, not sure of the brand anymore...but he didn't have alot of choices due to the r/t size and not being a standard intrepid rotor for other models (i guess?) with smaller wheels....well, those warped pretty quickly also, but no cracking this time...it had a lifetime warranty so I got my $ back on them. Now I have a different brand of rotor, once again he had trouble finding rotors for my application besides slotted/cross drilled foreign ones I never heard of from online...he got them from napa in town and they were pretty expensive...only had em on for about 10000 miles now, I just turned 80000 on the trep...guess what...slight vibration on the brake pedal once again today..not bad, but its there....I don't drive hard...never slam on the brakes at all, like NEVER....I had to like once to avoid an accident in front of me but only for a second then swerved to other lane...so?????????? cheap parts, possible...but I PAID alot for em....coincidence, maybe....underpowered/poorly designed braking system for heavy car from dodge, also possible...I am digging the 4 piston calipers on that aftermarket kit...not really digging the $2k price though...lol....
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 01:01 AM
 
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that is wayyyy too much to read.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 01:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeW
a '00 RT doesn't have EBD, the rear brakes will never ever fade. even an '02 EBD will fade only AFTER the fronts have long been toast.

The fronts can overheat (that is why the police intrepid had a retrofit brake cooling duct)
To be honest I have to say the brake ducts don't do shit. On my origional rotors with the aggressive police compound pads, it took one stop from 100 mph and they were warped (no I didn't sit still at a stoplight).

But since the rotors were already getting thin, I'll let it go. But: new rotors, Bendix Titaniumetallic (think that's what they're called). After 4 months of grandma driving (not a single hard brake), they're slightly warped again.

I figure the stupid "Nascar Inspired" ducts simply don't see even speed during everyday driving to be effective. When the weather gets warmer, I'll do a battery relocate to the trunk. That chunk of lead hanging waaaay over the front axle can't help.

2003 Police Package
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 12:23 PM
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The big problem is uneven pad deposition, due to flexy calipers.
The second problem is vastly undersized front brake rotors.
When I replaced the OEM rotors, they weighed 16.2 lbs [rusty]. The exact brembo replacements from TireRack weighed 16.6 lbs [shiny] When I got the Brembo HP (RT style) rotor, it weighed 17.6lbs.
The front rotors for the LH should have been ~20lbs
The rear rotors are ~12lbs (if I remember correctly)

Compare to:
http://www.worldcarfans.com/photos.c...nz-slr-mclaren

18.3lbs, for a rear drive SLK320
34.4lbs for the SL55
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 12:59 PM
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Brakes are like a see-saw [or teeter-totter if you like] On one side is heat generation, on the other side is dissipation. Generation is always greater than dissipation, so you need a buffer-which is the thermal mass of the rotor.
See:
http://www.stoptech.com/products/img...rDataSheet.pdf
They are pretty light, so they need to be thermally stable at elevated temperature (they are, no coning) and the brake pad that StopTech likes to push is the Axxis 109, fade starts at 850F, mot 932F, or the street/track BHP XPS, MOT 1130 F

Damn look at what StopTech offers for the new M5, 380x35 front, 380x32 rear, ST-60 6 piston fronts (bigger pads) and ST-45 4 piston rear.

Since that isn't an option, I utilize the thermal mass of the wheel, (aluminum has a higher specific heat capacity than iron) by applying anti-seize to the wheel-rotor interface. The wheel spokes can get really hot, in theory the wheel strength could be significantly reduced, but I don't get them that hot.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-01-2007, 04:40 AM
 
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The only other thing I have found besides the $2000 horsepower freak set up is the Baer cross drilled/slotted/plated rotors
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