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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-15-2007, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Dangers of using resistors...Questions arise.



This resistor lasted 4 days. I put a new one to hold until the new relays arrive. When it burned up, it split down length-wise and melted the rubber sleeves for the wires.

I now have a few new questions.

I put the new resistor (front driver side) in, and get the fast blink still. I check out the rear driver side resistor, still in one piece and working. The new resistor slowly gets warm. The problem I have now is...I checked out the right T/S, the front left T/S LED came on with the passenger lights.
Could this be from the relay about give way?

She's going in to have a few other things taken care of, hood latch is rusted, has to be replaced. Dousing it with Cyclo silicon spray did nothing.

I also have another electrical problem, minor nuisance. She has laid waste to 2-size 194 LEDs now. For some reason, I'm thinking the voltage regulator may haven taken a hit when she went under. I'm sure I'm wrong about this, but does anyone have any comments?


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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-15-2007, 04:18 PM
 
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I'm not familiar with the mod you did or the resistors in question so the only thing I can offer is that you might have used a cheap low wattage resistor.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-15-2007, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windowpane
I'm not familiar with the mod you did or the resistors in question so the only thing I can offer is that you might have used a cheap low wattage resistor.

LED upgrade

That's the same resistor that's most commonly used. Radio Hack 10 Watt/10 Ohm resistors.

EDIT :
Since I use the "cheap" resistors, why are the other resistors still holding together and not burning up?
Probably just too much voltage going through the whole system.

Last edited by Scarface; 04-15-2007 at 05:30 PM.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-15-2007, 07:20 PM
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Your resistor is not big enough in terms of power dissipation capability. You need a higher wattage one; 15W should do the trick.

Or better yet: See if you can get away with a higher resistance.... that will lower the amount of power dissipated in the resistor when a resistor is wired in parallel with the voltage source as an additional load.

Are you sure all your resistors are the same resistance? I bet the load resistor you are using that DIDN'T burn is a higher resistance. Check the markings again.

As for the 2 LEDs.... they may be just crappy, intentionally overdriven LEDs.... I have had one die as well. They overdrive them in an attempt to make them brighter, but this shotrtens the life disproportionally to the amount of extra light. A bit more light, but a LOT less life.... sounds like a great trade off..... NOT!

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Last edited by hardwareguy; 04-15-2007 at 07:27 PM.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-15-2007, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwareguy
Your resistor is not big enough in terms of power dissipation capability. You need a higher wattage one; 15W should do the trick.

Or better yet: See if you can get away with a higher resistance.... that will lower the amount of power dissipated in the resistor when a resistor is wired in parallel with the voltage source as an additional load.

Are you sure all your resistors are the same resistance? I bet the load resistor you are using that DIDN'T burn is a higher resistance. Check the markings again.

As for the 2 LEDs.... they may be just crappy, intentionally overdriven LEDs.... I have had one die as well. They overdrive them in an attempt to make them brighter, but this shotrtens the life disproportionally to the amount of extra light. A bit more light, but a LOT less life.... sounds like a great trade off..... NOT!
They're all the same resistance. I couldn't find any 15 watt resistors. I will have to make due with the fast blinks until the new relays come in. Hopefully in a few days.
Any ideas about the front left T/S light coming on when I turn on the right T/S lights?
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-15-2007, 08:35 PM
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i used these resistors when i changed my rear turn signals to LED...


No problems so far, but now you've got me wondering. I'm gonna pull the taillight out and see how they look.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-15-2007, 08:55 PM
 
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You have to add those in even with the drop in 3157 LED bulbs I see at various parts stores? I thought you just had to put in an electronic flasher and you're good to go.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-15-2007, 09:04 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodgaholic
You have to add those in even with the drop in 3157 LED bulbs I see at various parts stores? I thought you just had to put in an electronic flasher and you're good to go.
You need either resistors or a non load dependent flasher.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-16-2007, 04:26 AM
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The electronic ones SHOULD be load independent.

That resistor from VLEDS looks to be at least a 25W.

I have no clue why the wrong signal blinks.... I think you messed up your wiring somewhere. :p
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-16-2007, 06:37 AM
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I had those resistors (V-Leds) but changed to the electronic flasher. I like the electronic flasher better. 1. don't have to hook up resistors to each circuit. 2. On mine I can set the flash speed, and flash pattern. 3. They are less expensive then the resistors, because you only need one flasher for all your turn signal lamps. 4. they work with LED's or bulbs (you can even run the two together. 5, You do not have to deal with the heat from the ballast resistors.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-16-2007, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwareguy
The electronic ones SHOULD be load independent.

That resistor from VLEDS looks to be at least a 25W.

I have no clue why the wrong signal blinks.... I think you messed up your wiring somewhere. :p
The stock relay probably is damaged. Yes/no/maybe?
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-16-2007, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarface
The stock relay probably is damaged. Yes/no/maybe?
maybe..... they're cheap, try another one.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-16-2007, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300Michael
I had those resistors (V-Leds) but changed to the electronic flasher. I like the electronic flasher better. 1. don't have to hook up resistors to each circuit. 2. On mine I can set the flash speed, and flash pattern. 3. They are less expensive then the resistors, because you only need one flasher for all your turn signal lamps. 4. they work with LED's or bulbs (you can even run the two together. 5, You do not have to deal with the heat from the ballast resistors.

All very valid points..... get a GOOD electronic flasher and be done with it.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-16-2007, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwareguy
All very valid points..... get a GOOD electronic flasher and be done with it.
Part number for the electronic flasher??



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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-16-2007, 02:44 PM
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Well, I have 2 solutions for this problem.

A) Buy a Haynes manual, and look for and find the damn flasher. Once that's done, then I will see if a towing flasher will work.

B) Get a 100W ceramic resistor, designed specifically to be fireproof. Since the bulb is only 12W, it would be hard to burn out a resistor almost 8 times as high.
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