Overheating problem - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-15-2014, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Sad Overheating problem

Hi again folks, as some of you know from my previous threads I swapped the 2.7 engine in my 2004 dodge intrepid to a 2001 300m 3.5. I had some issues along the way as the job was done by a bunch of blithering idiots. (you can't find a decent mechanic where I live)
Anyways once everything was sorted out the car started overheating. I've changed the radiator cap, thermostat (which works, we've checked) Radiator itself, radiator fans, and checked the water pump too which was in fine shape. anyways the car still keeps overheating and at this point I'm desperate. Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-15-2014, 06:00 PM
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Just so we're clear: The car you are asking about is the 2004 Intrepid which now has the 3.5 engine in it - correct?

My thoughts:
1) Is the thermostat in backwards? The spring end should be pointing into the block.
2) System does not have any trapped air?
3) Some 3.5's have been found to have some casting slag blocking a critical part of the coolant passageway - IIRC, going up into the driver's side head.
4) If someone has replaced the head gaskets, it would overheat if they put the left head gasket on the right head and the right head gasket on the left head - believe it or not, a common mistake.
5) Was timing belt changed? If so, is the timing off?
6) Did you run the engine before the swap, and if so, did it overheat?


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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-16-2014, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply, and yes sir it had a 2.7 engine which was changed to a 300m 3.5 2001 year. As to your questions:
1) The thermostat is indeed installed correctly.
2) We checked for CO levels and it showed a positive result.
3) Can't really say that much as the engine has not been disassembled.
4) Again, I don't know as we haven't checked inside the engine.
5) Timing belt wasn't changed.
6) No, unfortunately I did not, the "mechanic" who did the job just showed me the engine and said it would work perfectly.

On another note, one of the local mechanics told me that exhaust might be blocked somehow, not letting air out and that we should cut out the catalytic converters. Do you think that might help? I'm probably going to do it first thing in the morning. Again thanks for the reply. Due to the lack of knowledge of local idiots regarding American cars, Intrepid has been a very painful experience for me.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-16-2014, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
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...2) We checked for CO levels and it showed a positive result.
Showed a "positive result", meaning it has CO2 in it? Or a "positive result" meaning "good - no CO2"?. Either way, I don't understand the significance of that. But I just meant is it properly full of coolant, or is there air where coolant should be? Is it full (of coolant)? (Perhaps you meant CO, not CO2, which would be an indicator of a leaking head gasket allowing combustion gases into the coolant jacket. That's not what I was meaning by "trapped air". By "trapped air", I just meant the coolant jacket of the engine not totally full of coolant.)

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3) Can't really say that much as the engine has not been disassembled.
Yeah - I wouldn't expect you to know the answer. I was informing you of that as something to be on the list of possible causes if no other cause can be found.

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4) Again, I don't know as we haven't checked inside the engine.
Again, just a possibility to be aware of since you don't know the history - *or* if you did somehow know that the heads had ever been removed, then the possibility of swapped head gaskets would be high on the list of possibilities.

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5) Timing belt wasn't changed.
Unrelated to the current symptoms, if you mean it never has been changed (since engine was new), then it's important that it be, along with the water pump. Related to the current symptoms, if it is old/original, it may be stretched and could have slipped a tooth or two and could be causing symptoms.

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6) No, unfortunately I did not, the "mechanic" who did the job just showed me the engine and said it would work perfectly.
OK. No problem. Just would have helped to know.

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On another note, one of the local mechanics told me that exhaust might be blocked somehow, not letting air out and that we should cut out the catalytic converters. Do you think that might help?
Only if they are clogged. Ignoring the overheating, have you been able to drive it at highway speeds enough to tell if it runs OK at higher engine rpm under heavy acceleration? If so, then the exhaust is not clogged. If the exhaust were partially clogged, the engine would have trouble accelerating, especially at higher rpm's.

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...Again thanks for the reply...
You are very welcome. I hope you figure out the problem.


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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-16-2014, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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By "trapped air", I just meant the coolant jacket of the engine not totally full of coolant.).
I just don't know man there might be some trapped air still in there, could you tell me how to properly release it? Also about the exhaust, I checked the car yesterday when it was totally cool before it overheated (Takes about 5 minutes on high revs) When I put the throttle down on low speeds it seemed to be accelerating just fine, when I did it at say 40-50 mph , the engine made noise but it seemed like it wasn't pulling the car as hard as it could. Also another weird thing is that when hot, temperature gauge way above medium, we turned the fans on to cool it out, it just blew out warm air, not hot, after it overheated again, and we put in some more water, the fan started to blow hot air afterwards and the car seems to go for 20 minutes on low revs before it starts to boil like a teapot.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-17-2014, 05:24 PM
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There is Bleed Valve Located on the intake manifold this has to be opened to insure that no air is trapped in the cooling system.

Bleed Valve Location (3.5L): Located on the
lower intake manifold, left of center and below the
upper intake plenum (Fig. 5).
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Should the radiator fan blow the air out from the engine in the direction of the radiator, or should it be vise versa?
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 02:42 PM
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The fans should pull air through the rad, condenser, trans cooler towards the engine ...
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for clearing that up sir. Man I'm done with this car, changed the entire cooling system, aired it out, even cut off the catalytic converters in case they were blocking some air but to no result. It still overheats. I've spent close to 6000 dollars in total in this, I'm done.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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As I've found out the coolant recovery tank was damaged and I need a replacement. Could you tell me if any other non LH platform Chryslers even have the same type of tank I can use? Also can anyone tell me how many liters/gallons of fluid does the cooling system holds?
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 02:58 AM
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Manual says about 12 quarts for 3.5 ....11 quarts for 3.3
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
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As I've found out the coolant recovery tank was damaged and I need a replacement. Could you tell me if any other non LH platform Chryslers even have the same type of tank I can use?
I don't believe so. If you drill down on Rock Auto to the recovery tank and click on the part number, it shows all applications - only 2nd gen. LH cars are shown in that list, and I think that is correct. But whatever you do, do not buy the Dorman tank - very prone to breaking within a very few months of use. Pay the extra $20 or so from an on-line discount dealer for an OEM one.

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...Also can anyone tell me how many liters/gallons of fluid does the cooling system holds?
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Manual says about 12 quarts for 3.5 ....11 quarts for 3.3
Different for 2nd gens. FSM's say 9.4 qts. all engines.
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I don't believe so. If you drill down on Rock Auto to the recovery tank and click on the part number, it shows all applications - only 2nd gen. LH cars are shown in that list, and I think that is correct. But whatever you do, do not buy the Dorman tank - very prone to breaking within a very few months of use. Pay the extra $20 or so from an on-line discount dealer for an OEM one.

Different for 2nd gens. FSM's say 9.4 qts. all engines.
Thanks for the number. As for the recovery tank yeah I did poke around rockauto and unfortunately other models have different tanks. Fortunately for now I found a used tank from a concorde, going to try it out today and see if it does the job.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Alright so I'll explain the situation so that maybe someone can tell me what the hell is going on. As I've said I found a tank from a Concorde and replaced the current broken one. The temperature gage is by the medium at cruising speeds, but tiny amounts of water come squirting out from the safety hole it has every 10 seconds maybe, also from time to time some steam comes with it as well. When I floored it, the temp gage went up a bit, but then came back down. When I turn the engine off, I hear the bubbly noise boiled water makes. Man oh man am I tired with all this crap, I mean I've tried everything and something still appears to be wrong. BTW the small amount of water squirting out thing, it does that when it just sits idle in park as well.
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 07:28 PM
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Did you replace the reservoir cap? Your old one as well as the one from the Concorde (if you got that one) could be bad.
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