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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-19-2014, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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100% antifreeze with 0%water

guys, so the overheating problem has fudged my brain too many times now. After about 1 hour of driving, I have to add some more water in the system. Right now I'm running it on 100 % distilled water. I was wondering can I put 100% antifreeze in, what affect would this have, also does anyone else run their machine on water alone without antifreeze, maybe that's the reason it's overheating this time. I also has to be noted that it is THE hottest summer ever where I live with temperatures up there around 40-41 degrees Celsius, which is 105 degrees Fahrenheit.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-19-2014, 06:44 AM
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Antifreeze has a much lower conductivity (transfer) of heat than water, so, even though it has a higher boiling point, it will be more likely to overheat than with the proper mixture of water and antifreeze. There are some products out there like Water Wetter (rather expensive IIRC) that allow you to use less antifreeze so that the cooling is more effective (generally used in racing), but of course not a good idea in winter in cold climates.

In winter, the coolant of pure antifreeze will actually freeze before the proper mixture of antifreeze and water, and of course pure water will freeze before the proper mixture will (we use ethylene glycol - ethylene glycol has other problems - IIRC, it has to be replaced much more frequently):



Antifreeze provides anti-corrosion to the engine metals and lubrication to the water pump bearings and seal so, though pure water will cool better temporarily, use of just water will cause serious problems over time (corrosion in the water passages - very bad for transferring heat and for good flow of coolant, and premature water pump failure).

For completeness, here is a graph of the boiling point of antifreeze and water:



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Last edited by peva; 08-19-2014 at 07:01 AM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-19-2014, 08:20 PM
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if your system isn't holding pressure, water will steam off easier than a water/AF mix.
and, as peva said, water accepts/gives up heat better than AF, so, no, water alone will not make an overheating problem worse, except it will boil over easier when heated too high.
especially, if there is a lack of pressure to raise the boiling point some.
sorry i'm not aquainted with the problem you have if you've posted it elsewhere.
your rad and condenser are clean between?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-19-2014, 09:52 PM
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yes running just water will make it over heat. my suggestion is to see what the capacity of the cooling system and drain approximately 1/2 of the water out. add antifreeze to it testing as you go with an coolant tester.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2014, 12:00 AM
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I'm looking into a complete conversion to the Evans waterless coolant on my project car, 2001 Intrepid with 2.7L V6. I've read a lot of favorable information on the stuff. But it is not for the faint of heart. You must have good cores and good pipes and new water pump. Otherwise it is a money dumper as it will cost about $260 for the conversion. Stuff is not cheap but with a tight system you won't have to change it for 5+ years and not worry about corrosion or boil over. Since there is no water no pressure to build Jo. Maybe 2PSI tops. Since I'm starting with a rebuild I have the perfect opportunity ahead of me...
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2014, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akaki View Post
guys, so the overheating problem has fudged my brain too many times now. After about 1 hour of driving, I have to add some more water in the system. Right now I'm running it on 100 % distilled water. I was wondering can I put 100% antifreeze in, what affect would this have, also does anyone else run their machine on water alone without antifreeze, maybe that's the reason it's overheating this time. I also has to be noted that it is THE hottest summer ever where I live with temperatures up there around 40-41 degrees Celsius, which is 105 degrees Fahrenheit.
My guess would be is to look at the radiator cap and possibly replace it. More times then not I've run into problem caps that do not fit completely and have a loose seal. Purchase a quality cap and stay away from the cheap stuff that many of the discount autoparts stores push. Go to NAPA and get a good quality cap. It has to feel tight going on and rated with the right pressure. With no pressure your coolant boiling temperature lowers and allows for steam evaporation. It seems that a 50-50 mix provides the best of both water and anti-freeze properties. My guess is that you have a weak cap where you are not getting a good seal or the spring is not responding correctly to temperature and pressure. Change it and my bet your problem goes away if there are no other leaks in the system. Check your hose connections for solid seals. People have a tendency to over tighten which does nothing but create leaks. A little liquid soap and water in a spray bottle will help you find the leak. Spray your cap and hose connection and if bubbles appear, there's your problem...

Good luck sir and wish you the best....
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-17-2014, 02:02 AM
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Okay with the overheating I had this myself. Originally I think it was because I mixed the two different types of coolant. So i got a coolant flush from a mechanic and put in the orange crap Propylene.. Bad idea.. turns out my 2000 R/T hates that and goes thermonuclear. After another coolant flush I put in the classic green slime (Ethelene Glycol) and it works wonders. So my advice get a flush and put in brand new green goo. Cheers!

EDIT:: oh and if the coolant leaks like on my car, my mechanic told me a trick is that you loosen the coolant cap a little so it doesnt build up pressure too much.. or maybe none at all? anyway.. during hot summer days it sometimes starts gushing out haha but most of the time its fine and dandy! cheap solution. plus its cool when ur car is all steamy and shoots out boiling hot green slime at people right|?

EDIT again:: not propylene glycol but DEX COOL

Last edited by Izzy187; 12-22-2014 at 08:53 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-17-2014, 02:32 AM
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^ To anybody who reads that last post, use some common sense and fix it right. With the cap on loose, pressure will not build which will at the same time lower the boiling point of the coolant causing it to turn into steam, the coolant level will drop, and then the car will overheat. Apparently the term "mechanic" was being used very loosely.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-17-2014, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Akaki View Post
guys, so the overheating problem has fudged my brain too many times now. After about 1 hour of driving, I have to add some more water in the system. Right now I'm running it on 100 % distilled water. I was wondering can I put 100% antifreeze in, what affect would this have, also does anyone else run their machine on water alone without antifreeze, maybe that's the reason it's overheating this time. I also has to be noted that it is THE hottest summer ever where I live with temperatures up there around 40-41 degrees Celsius, which is 105 degrees Fahrenheit.
I'm going to use the Evans NPG+C High Performance Waterless Coolant in my Intrepid after I get the newly rebuilt engine installed. Expensive yes... But I've read far to many positive info about the stuff to pass up. It's boiling point is 100 degrees C over water which also means since it is waterless does not build up pressure in the cooling system. They call it lifetime coolant. I figure between it and using synthetic oil, chances of my 2.7 motor failing will be pretty remote. There again I'm one who always takes very good care of my vehicles. I have a 2001 Dogde Durango that has a motor in it that one could eat off of because it is so clean. The engine bay gets a regular cleaning. I also run Hydroxy injection which boosts my mileage by 30% and burns extremely clean. The annual smog tests for licensing in the Seattle area just leaves the inspectors wondering how come my engine runs and burns so clean. Run on 25 Amps from the Hydroxy cell and a well tuned EFIE computer will do it. I now have close to 130000 miles on the engine and it still runs very smooth. Take care of your engine and car and it will take care of you.

Last edited by Timmy3923; 12-17-2014 at 03:30 AM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-17-2014, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Izzy187 View Post
Okay with the overheating I had this myself. Originally I think it was because I mixed the two different types of coolant. So i got a coolant flush from a mechanic and put in the orange crap Propylene.. Bad idea.. turns out my 2000 R/T hates that and goes thermonuclear. After another coolant flush I put in the classic green slime (Ethelene Glycol) and it works wonders. So my advice get a flush and put in brand new green goo. Cheers!

EDIT:: oh and if the coolant leaks like on my car, my mechanic told me a trick is that you loosen the coolant cap a little so it doesnt build up pressure too much.. or maybe none at all? anyway.. during hot summer days it sometimes starts gushing out haha but most of the time its fine and dandy! cheap solution. plus its cool when ur car is all steamy and shoots out boiling hot green slime at people right|?
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^ To anybody who reads that last post, use some common sense and fix it right. With the cap on loose, pressure will not build which will at the same time lower the boiling point of the coolant causing it to turn into steam, the coolant level will drop, and then the car will overheat. Apparently the term "mechanic" was being used very loosely.
Heh heh! I agree. And where do you even buy propylene glycol?

Fix the problem and use G05.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-17-2014, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Timmy3923 View Post
which also means since it is waterless does not build up pressure in the cooling system.
ANY fluid in the coolant system will build pressure as long as the system is sealed and doesn't have any large air pockets.

I'd just say keep it simple and use the recommended G05 and service properly.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-17-2014, 08:51 PM
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And where do you even buy propylene glycol?
peak/sierra are sold in a few places. they are the non toxic anti freezes.
probably a few others out there.

for vehicles, stay away from the ones for hydronic heating. they won't have the corrosion protection engines need.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 08:53 PM
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ANY fluid in the coolant system will build pressure as long as the system is sealed and doesn't have any large air pockets.

I'd just say keep it simple and use the recommended G05 and service properly.
Sorry!! I meant to say Dex-Cool not propylene glycol. Dex cool destroys our intrepids! burn it with fire!
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