2003 SE in need of some TLC - Page 2 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #16 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Peva, it means a lot. I think she looks great. I put a lot of water in the windshield and not even a drop of water went inside. I searched in Youtube for any ideas on how to solve the issue and I follow some of the videos advice. I removed the wiper blades and windshield cover to see if there is a drain hole that is clogged but to my surprise there is none. I can see the engine bay below. So Im out of ideas. I will see if removing the cover under the wheel lets me see a hole there where the cable to the hood enters the cabin or like you said the rubber that connects the door cables to the frame. On another topic any advice on the carpet? Is 2 grand a lot for the replacement? I posted some photos of the windshield.
Thanks in advance
raptor

Also do you guys have an issue with the icons sowing up all over the window. It only happens in the forum web page. here is a picture
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post #17 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 09:12 PM
tgs
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The paint looks really nice!!!

The carpet is black; from a 70k mile car and in great shape.

Two of the seat sets are cloth. Both are dark slate (charcoal) type.
One is 70k, the other 39k.

The other seat set is a lighter color but I'm going to keep that for now.

BUT, you're too far away! The shipping cost for the carpet would be ridiculous!
That carpet has to weigh close to a hundred pounds and it would be some obnoxious box size.....

--Terry
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post #18 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raptor1680 View Post
Thanks Peva, it means a lot. I think she looks great. I put a lot of water in the windshield and not even a drop of water went inside. I searched in Youtube for any ideas on how to solve the issue and I follow some of the videos advice. I removed the wiper blades and windshield cover to see if there is a drain hole that is clogged but to my surprise there is none. I can see the engine bay below. So Im out of ideas. I will see if removing the cover under the wheel lets me see a hole there where the cable to the hood enters the cabin or like you said the rubber that connects the door cables to the frame. On another topic any advice on the carpet? Is 2 grand a lot for the replacement? I posted some photos of the windshield.
Thanks in advance
raptor

Also do you guys have an issue with the icons sowing up all over the window. It only happens in the forum web page. here is a picture
Does the water get in even if the car is parked, or does it have to be moving on the road in rain to get water inside? There's also the large grommet in the firewall for the shifter cable - if that was ever pulled out of the hole in the firewall, water might get in - but, again, only if the car was moving.
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post #19 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Good afternoon Peva.
The water gets in when it rains really hard. When it is parked and when its driving. I sprayed the hole front end of the car after removing the lower windshield covers for about 10 minutes really hard and nothing got in. Don't know what to do. On a positive note I was able to get a brand new carpet from my dealership today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:Rocki n:
It cost me 700 dollars delivered. They asked for the VIN and they found one exact match for my car. It will get here this Thursday. I need to find now the clips to hold it in place and somebody to redo the seats. The last guy I talked to wanted 2 grand to make the carpet!!!!!!! Any body used some sort of sound dampening material on their cars before? Im planning to use it to make the car more soundproof since I will have to remove all to get the new carpet in.

But before that I need to find the hole and fix it before I put the new carpet myself. Any body have a video I can use or instructions that I can use from somebody who did it before: Any tips on how to remove those old and brittle holding clips will be greatly appreciated.
Peva where is the hole for the shifter cable. Do I need to get under the car to look for it? Yesterday I saw a video in you tube from somebody that replaced the coolant holding tank because a leak he had. He had to remove a lot of things in order to get to it. Maybe I will be doing the same on mine just in case to try and find where is my coolant going.
Well thanks again. I will be posting pictures of the project.

TGS, thanks for the offer. Can you take some photos of the seats? What is your price for them.

Thanks in advance.
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post #20 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 05:00 PM
tgs
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There is no charge for the seats.
I won't be using them and I can get some pictures for you, np.

If we really do this, I suppose I could remove the seat cushions from the seat tracks.
The front seat bottoms and backs are pretty light.

The back seat back is another matter. It's huge and a little heavy.
The back seat bottom is light but large.
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post #21 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 07:34 PM
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The shifter cable goes forward out of the console tunnel and veers over the gas pedal and thru the firewall. On the engine compartment side, it comes out between the brake booster and center of he firewall, and turns downward to the driver's side of the transmission.
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post #22 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 03:31 PM
tgs
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Photos of seats: On the one set, the passenger seat is in use right now so, not pictured.

2001 Leather with 130k miles








1998 Cloth with 70k miles






2004 Cloth with 39k miles





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post #23 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-25-2017, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Good morning to all. Sorry its been a few days, I have been busy traveling to and from Fl. Thanks tgs for the photos, I really like the 2004 seats, they look new. I would personally drive to your house to get them. But the problem is my car has the complete front seat. I don't have the lower console between the seats. I am a bit concern because I haven't received the carpet from the dealership. I paid 700 dollars for it and was told I would have it in 3 to 4 days. that was supposed to be last Friday and today is Tuesday and so far no call from them. Maybe it was to good to be true.

On another issue any of you have any instructions on how to remove and reinstalled the carpet? What kind of plastic screws do you need? Any advice on how to remove the plastic covers in order to not to damage them?

I asked the question to the parts person at the dealership and all he could say it was all discontinued. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Leo
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post #24 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-25-2017, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raptor1680 View Post
Thanks tgs for the photos, I really like the 2004 seats, they look new. I would personally drive to your house to get them. But the problem is my car has the complete front seat. I don't have the lower console between the seats
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, you have a front bench seat with column shift, right! Sorry!


On removing and installing the carpet:
Disconnect the battery at the negative Jump Post

The back seat bottom comes out with a quick jerk under the left front; same thing on the right front.
(There is a metal loop on each side that fits snugly into a rubber grommet)

Remove all four door seals.

Remove the nuts hold the gas pedal plate.
Remove the bolts that anchor the seat belts (bottom of the B pillar)
Remove the right and left dash end caps.

Separate the B pillar moding from the B pillar (you can remove it but you don't have to)

I think there are four or five white plastic pins on each side under the rocker molding.
I use an HF (harbor freight) tool to get those out, "5 piece upholstery and trim tool set #99739; price $15.99.

The two front kick moldings are held in place with two Phillips head screws each
(can take some effort and will power to get those screws out)

Remove the radio bezel by pulling straigth back (should just unsnap)

Pull the carpet back from under the dash and out.

(Time for a beer)
.
.
.

Last edited by tgs; 07-25-2017 at 02:12 PM.
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post #25 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Good morning to all. Its finally here. Has not been out of the bag since 2005. I will start removing the old one this weekend with my son. Thanks for the instructions. It should be very similar for mine since I don't have the center console.
Have any body use some sort of sound insulation on your cars when installing the new carpet?

Here are some photos of the carpet still in the plastic. I will send some without it this weekend.

Take care

Leo
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post #26 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 10:37 AM
tgs
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I've never used it myself but something that seems to be popular is a product called "dynamat" -- "www.dynamat.com".
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post #27 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 12:43 PM
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I never did it, but I looked into it some years ago. Hardware and the big box stores sell what is called roofing underlayment in rolls for going under roofing shingles to prevent ingress of water in ice damn and similar situations (seals around nails, etc.).

You may find that it accomplishes the same thing as Dynamat for a bit less cost. May or may not be as thick as Dynamat. If thinner, it still may be cheaper to go with double thickness. There are "name brand" roofing underlayment products, and then there are lesser-known regional/generic brands that may be even cheaper.

You might want to look at SDS sheets and ingredients labels. I think asphalt is to be avoided due to outgassing inside a hot car. I think polypropylene (AKA butyl) is the "modern"/desired/acceptable material - but it's your responsibility to research it on your own. Maybe you can find an SDS sheet on Dynamat to figure out its ingredients.

The materials are very much like (identical to?) the black sticky stuff used to attach the door panel liners to the doors of our cars, but in sheet form.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
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post #28 of 102 (permalink) Old 07-31-2017, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks TGS and PEVA for the info. I did some research on the internet and in YouTube. They all mention the fumes in a hot car, they talk about thickness and heat and sound insulation. I was not able to work in the car this weekend, my A/C unit and tractor stopped working so I will keep you guys posted.

Take care
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post #29 of 102 (permalink) Old 08-06-2017, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Hello to all.
Just wanted to post an update to the 2003 TLC. I was able to move the seats and the carpet today. It was not easy. All the seats bolts came out after a bath with WD-40. All except the left from one in the drivers side. It was so corroded that it was just turning. I had to use my dremmel to cut it. It was so bad that the metal that holds the seat and the bolt together was just a big pile of rust. I have to go to the dealer and try and find a replacement. Also I found where the water leak is coming from. It is from directly behind the brake pedal. The part that goes into the firewall and directly behind the brake assembly. It is all full of rust. Im sending some pictures of the project. Any help with the water leak will be appreciated.

Also I found another connection under the passenger seat just like the one in the driver seat that connect to the electric motor. Is it possible to install another electric seat in there. Do you guys know if they had an electric passenger seat for my car?. I have the one without the center console.
If not can I replace it with a 300M seat and install a generic center console?

TGS, I just saw your post of your red 2004 SXT. Beautiful car and the low miles on it with the immaculate interior for that price was a great find. Im jealous!!!!!! Congrats on the find
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post #30 of 102 (permalink) Old 08-06-2017, 09:43 PM
tgs
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Concordes have the front bench seat set up, too.
Probably more Concordes sold that way than Intrepids.
I think you'd have better luck finding a power passenger seat in a Concorde than in an Intrepid.

About the 2004 Red SXT; it is for sale. I purchased that car in 2014 and I am selling it for $4000.
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