Go to www.apexjr.com
and check out their surplus amps. Last time I checked they had a 25x2 full range plate amp.
Or better yet, build your own using one of the nice ICs from ST Microelectronics or National Semiconductor. www.qkits.com
has some nice amp kits. One of their 50w units has an ST IC on it, you need 2 as they are mono.
Elliott Sound Products has some NICE pre designed printed circuit boards for use witht the National ICs, they come with a manual and compnent list. Get the components at www.digikey.com
The circuit boards are light, so shipping from Austrailia shouldn't be TOO bad.
If building an amp isn't your cup of tea, go on ebay and get one of those mini receivers. I got a Onkyo MC35Tech for 200 bucks, it came with a 3disc changer too. It has a subwoofer ouput for use with a powered sub. Look for Onkyo, Denon and Yamaha micro systems. The Teac Reference series mini components are great too. These are often sold with just the amp or receiver part and no speakers, The sound quality is good from these little units. Some of the OLDER Sony micro stuff is good.
See the MC35 here: http://www.us.onkyo.com/model.cfm?m=...s=Audiosys&p=i
Keep in mind that I'm not talking about those cheap glorified boomboxes you see all the time in wal mart with the flashing lights and huge power claims, the componets I'm talking about are simply smaller counterparts of REAL stereo components. They are modest in appearance and don't look like they've been "riced out".
Any way you slice it, you need at least 15w of CLEAN power, that class T thing you were looking at is not going to cut it.
As for the speakers, I like the Audax Aerogel 4 inch, but I prefer larger midbass drivers. The tweeter that I like is the Dayton silk dome. You will likely need to build your own crossover for the best sound. The frequency response charts are your friends, use them.
Use good parts in your crossover. Use poly or mylar caps in the crossover instead of non polar electrolytics, the result is smoother sound. Resistors should be 1% tolerance and non inductive, this helps you design a more accurate crossover. Inductors should be 16 gauge or thicker to prevent power loss. All components should be 5% tolerance or less. A good crossover can make OK speakers sound great, a bad one can make a pair of expensive Scan Speak drivers sound like crap. With that said, most premade crossovers SUCK.
To avoid crossing over too high in the midbass, you might consider a 5.25 inch midbass driver instead of a 4 inch, this will put male vocals and lower frequencies of smaller string instruments where they belong, not in the sub! There is also a better selection of drivers in the 5.25 size range.
I like crossover frequencies less than 100HZ, any more and the bass becomes obvious that it's coming from the sub and the soundstage goes to hell.
As for the woofer, I like the 8 inch shielded DVC that parts express has. It's cheap and it sounds good. Get the parts express 70w sub amp, it's good. Use a ported box, it's output is a bit low in a sealed box.
The enclosures for all the speakers should be made of at least 1/2 inch MDF or birch plywood. 5/8 inch is preferred for most boxes, BIG subs need 3/4 inch wood.
Line the box with polyester if you are doing sealed boxes or just line the back of the box for ported boxes.