Here's a good start for the basic information: https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/18-gen...procedure.html
Also, study and use post no. 6 here: https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/18-gen...-no-spark.html
There have been a lot of threads started by people who just couldn't get the timing right from the FSM - admittedly it can be confusing. I consider that post definitive for knowing what correct timing looks like.
Putting the chain mark to the mark on the oil pump puts the timing at 60° ATDC - not at TDC as most people assume. That is perfect for rotating the cams as much as you want to without valve-piston contact as the pistons are down well below contact with fully open valves.
Here is some later information that is highly recommended - deviate at your own risk:
Get these parts *only* from a Chrysler dealer. The design of the water pump and its gasket were *greatly* improved to enhance longevity and overall liability. Aftermarket is a crap shoot almost universally regardless of brand due to poor quality *and* many aftermarket pumps are the older, very inferior design. The dealers sell only the new design pump and gasket.
Aftermarket chain tensioners are crap strictly due to quality issues. There are more than a few threads on here telling of either bad aftermarket 2.7 tensioners right out of the box, or failure after only a few days to a couple of months. So again: Dealer-only item.
If you're wondering about the secondary timing chains and tensioners, re-use the old ones. I won't say that a failure of those has never been reported here, but I think it is correct to say that - certainly *very* rare.
Consider replacing the valve stem seals. They see a lot of heat in the 2.7, and even though they're Viton, they get hard typically between 100 and 150k miles, and the engine will start blowing a lot of oil out the exhaust at startup and upon acceleration after coasting, and oil usage goes way up. This would be the time to do that. I can offer some pointers if you decide to go that way.
Being a 2005, your 2.7 might have the factory-updated coolant bleeder valve design where it's welded onto the metal pipe. If it's molded into the plastic cover of the coolant outlet housing, consider replacing with new-design parts from the dealer. The old design are known for failing every 75 to 100k miles and losing coolant gradually, or sometimes suddenly blowing off with a risky loss of all coolant.
Coolant reservoir is known for getting brittle and cracking with miles and years, and also either gradually or suddenly splitting open and dumping the whole load. Dealer-only item - all aftermarket of this part is junk and will fail in short order.
Radiator plastic side tanks are known for cracking or splitting open with miles and years - usually passenger-side tank, engine side of radiator. That, the reservoir, and the bleeder are by far the three main causes of coolant leaks and total sudden loss (probably more-so generally than the water pump).
Consider getting the aftermarket timing chain tensioner arm stop block (about $30). That can protect from engine damage if the chain tensioner should fail (keeps timing from slipping unless major failure like water pump locking up). Dan and I disagree on this. He doesn't see much value in the stop block. So who you going to believe - me or him? Just kidding - we just have differing opinions on that.
That should give you something to chew on for a while.