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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
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Well, there's your problem!

Well, as some of you know, the other car I rock is a Geo Metro. Nice little 3 door honestly... Not going to win any land-speed records, but it does get me nice mileage and I enjoy the little 5 speed.

Anyway, I've noticed a decline in power ever since coming back from Art's 2010 Kyle Memorial meet. I was pulling out onto the interstate somewhere south of St. Cloud MN, Star Wars IV blaring on the DVD player and whole car stereo via tape adapter, and with all the noise and distraction I didn't realize I was doing 70 in 4th - for several miles! I could no longer do over about 60 miles an hour down hill with a tail wind... a head wind going up hill, which the car used to hold it's own doing, would only do about 35mph.

Well, I did a compression test, and had 150, 150, and ZERO for numbers... Good rings on a low mile bottom end rebuild, so I wasn't worried there. The 1.0L Metro 3cyl, and the 1.3 4cyl big brother motors are both known for one thing - well, just look at the pictures...

Here is the exhaust valve from the dead cylinder - I mounted it in a 2x4 for the pictures.



Here are 4 views around the valve seat, each 90 degrees rotated I was playing with the flash a bit, so sorry about the different colors.






For comparison, here is the bad valve next to a serviceable valve - I replaced all the valves in a core head with stainless units.



Here is a shot from the side... Look at how deformed the flat disc of the valve face is in this shot - that isn't an artifact of camera angle.



I've got the new head all prepped to install, just have to get out on a warm dry day to install it.

More to come!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 04:05 PM
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You silly goose, that's the valve for the square cylinder engine! The concave shape it to provide clearance for the inverese hemi top piston!
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 11:40 PM
yippee ki yay

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
Well, I did a compression test, and had 150, 150, and ZERO for numbers... Good rings on a low mile bottom end rebuild, so I wasn't worried there. The 1.0L Metro 3cyl, and the 1.3 4cyl big brother motors are both known for one thing - well, just look at the pictures...
it must be from that turbo your running......lol
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
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Well, time to update the ole thread here...

I bought three stainless steel exhaust valves from a company known as 3Tech, and then cleaned up the intake valves. Any time you do valve work, you really should true up the valve seats and valve faces. This is done in a process called lapping. The following pictures show my process.

Here is the intake valve, sitting sideways its seat. The shiny ring is the where the valve meets the seat.



After cleaning up the valve, apply liberal amounts of valve grinding compound. The compound I used was from Permatex. Talk about a polishing toothpaste!



Put a dab of oil on the valve stem, but don't let it mix with the valve grind compound - the compound is water based, and will fall off the valve if it mixes with oil.



To lap the valve faces and seats, the valve must be rotated back and forth. For this I purchased a valve lapping crank style tool. By turning the hand crank, the valve holding cup is turned forward and backward repeatedly, but it rotates one direction slightly more than the other, so the valve slowly advances around a full 360 degrees.



You can also lap valve by hand. A traditional lapping tool is a wooden handle with two suction cups, one on each end, for different size valves. Well, on a Geo Metro, the valves are really some of the smallest in the automotive world - and my valve grinder didn't include a small enough cup. So, I had to modify one of the suction cups and throw the cup on a center punch I had laying around to make a hand lapping tool.



When you are all done, you clean the valve grinding compound. I used conservative amounts of brake clean. You have to make sure that you get all of the iron/carbide grit washed away - you don't want that grit 'honing' your valve guides. Anyway, here is the final result.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 07:37 AM
That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.

 
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Nice! N00b like me never knew what that process involved.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 09:28 AM
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That lapped up pretty good. I like the hand crank. I could have used that when I did all 16 valves in the Miata.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 09:43 AM
yippee ki yay

 
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nice job Cean....she be ah running soon.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2011, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
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Well, more of the saga!

Lifters were my next thing to fix on the core head. Some of them were a little springy (some less than others), and others were locked up solid. I took all of them apart and cleaned them with brake clean only - it wasn't till I was dropping the head on the engine that I realized I should have probably scrubbed them with a Scotchbrite. Oh well.

First of all, when you pull the lifter from the bore, you can see the lifter's oiling hole. In this picture it is the dark spot at the 12 o'clock position.



And then here is the hole in the groove that the oil gets into the lifter from. This hole allows oil pressure to fill the large outer cavity of the lifter assembly.



Tipping the lifter upside down, here you can see the center core you have to remove. I removed mine by grasping the core with needle nose pliers and squeezing hard, rocking and pulling till I got the core's garter spring to let go. The core is what fills with oil and allows the oil pressure to adjust the lash in the valve to keep things quiet.



Here is the core coming out of the outer bore - the dark groove near the bottom of the largest part of the core is the garter spring you have to overcome.



Here is a shot down into the outer shell of the lifter that the core sits in. Notice the shiny reflective ring at the bottom, and the gap in it? That gap is where oil passes into the core from the outer cavity.



Here is the core, showing both parts assembled. These come apart with a little twisting.



Here is the core taken apart. Note the spring and do not lose it. As far as I can tell it is symmetrical and can be installed either way.



Here is the spring out. This inner cavity was full of thick goo.



Here are all the parts laid out. Well, not ALL the parts - I did not separate the ball check valve as mine are not a plastic holder, and seemed to be very well staked in.



Here is a detail shot of the center of the core, with the ball valve NOT removed.



Looking down the inside of the inner most part of the core, you can see the back side of the ball check valve at the center.



The lifter goes back together the same way it came apart - watch assembling the core parts - it was easy to get the parts cocked slightly and bind them up in the bores. With them assembled, soak them in oil to allow them to fill (partly) with oil. Wouldn't hurt to cycle them manually upside down in the oil bath to try and pre-fill all the chambers.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2011, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
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So, with the head taken apart, the new valves dropped in, all the valves lapped, the head cleaned (and washed a second time outside with LOTS of solvent), and the lifters cleaned up, it was time to put things back together.

For those of you who have never taken a valve assembly out, or if you have and still didn't understand how the valve keepers work, here we go!

Here are the keepers. These two halves fit together and the ridge you can see at the far edge of the inside of the keepers will fit in the groove of the top of the valve stem.



The keepers fit together in the valve spring top cap in a key-stone shape. This is how they will sit on the valve. (a magnet under the paper towel works nicely for staging photographs!)



Here is how they will fit in the top cap.



And here is the completed mock-up with both valve keepers installed.



With the valve spring seats in, new seals in place, valve inserted, valve spring in, and valve spring top cap in place, you can set the valve keepers down in place.



Now, you just press down on the top of the valve spring cap, hold your tongue just right in your mouth, and the keepers fall into place.

I installed the keepers on all but one spring with a pair of needle nose pliers pushing down on the spring and gently jiggling the top to get the keepers to fall in place.



One of them fell in place with the first push. 4 of them went in after three or four attempts, with me having to remove the spring and fish out one of the keepers with needle nose pliers from deep in the head to try again each time. However, 1 of them would NOT go in. I was cold, tired, and losing light - and the spring ejected one of the keepers up and into the snow bank in front of the house (I was working on the front stoop due to solvent use). OOPS! So, I had to get one of the keepers off the currently installed head before I could continue.

I made this little tool out of a piece of black gas pipe from the old furnace in my basement. I cut a notch in the side of the pipe to form a window to look through and poke the keepers into place.





Here is the shot with the keepers in place, and then a shot with the lifter in.





All done, ready to swap intakes and drop on the block.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2011, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
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I know I posted pictures of the burned exhaust valve, but here are the pictures of the inside of the head. The valve that is missing is the burned one. The spark plug was completely carboned up and bridged, but the top of that piston was clean... the other two had decent looking valve faces, but the piston tops were black with what looked like paint. The pistons are all new about 10-15K miles ago, along with a block hone and new rings and rod bearings.



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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2011, 09:04 PM
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I need to grow the balls to get in there and do this on the 99.....
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2011, 10:47 PM
yippee ki yay

 
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looks good Cean!
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