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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2004, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question Old Car Project Question

Hi,

I have a small question about what I am about to do to my old car. I`m planning on installing Hedman headers model #78050 . I tought of doing it rigth now since my whole exhaust line has to be redone (double this time). So here`s the thing, is any of you have ever use that brand of headers, and if yes, were they good?

Also, if I change the headers now, I won't have the intake and carburator 4bbl at the same time. So those it matter, if the engine is only 2bbl for now?

Since I talk about that, manifold, what would be your suggestion? Edelbrock Performer? With wich carburator? Or will I have a good performance with a 4bbl (carburator and manifold) that was original from Dodge?

Thanks for your help.

BTW, I know I haven`t been posting a lot, but I read you a lot. And since I have no problems or mods on my Trep, the only thing left is that old Dart...
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2004, 11:50 PM
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go to Moparts.com

Cheap headers are a really pain on Darts, Dusters and Demons.
Header leaks and ground clearance both suck.
Hooker Headers still have the ground clearance problems but they have a thicker flange and that's a must have.

Go with nothing bigger than 1 5/8".
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2004, 12:11 AM
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i ran headman headers on an old dirt track race car, and they put up with 2 years of beating, and were still on the car when i sold it, so i have had good luck with them
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2004, 06:19 AM
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Hedman has been doing Mopar header's for a long time - no problems - but jfsram is right, all headers are a pain on the A-bodies. I'm running headers on my '72 Sebring+ and it's just a 318-2v. I used true dual 2.5" regular bend piping and old fashioned, stock-styled hemi mufflers - works great! Has a nice mellow tone but not over-powering.
As far as the intake goes, I like Mopar. Their aluminum, 4v single plane should work very well regardless of how far you build the engine. The carb doesn't need to be any bigger than a 650 since you only push 644 CFM @ 7000 RPM. I guess if you really build up the engine later then you may need to upgrade the carb at that time.
Good luck on your project ...

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2004, 09:07 AM
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I remember putting headers on my '73 Duster (See, I can be nice; I didn't call it "Dustmop") and I agree, what a pain. We had the whole front of the car suspended with the chain hoist while the engine was jacked up as far as we could with the hydraulic jack and a post just to get the headers in. If I remember right we also had to disconnect a tie rod as well. Wish I had taken a picture of it in the air. But I have to admit that it made a noticable difference in throttle response. I think it was Hooker headers.
Headman Headers have been around for a long time and are very good...
Intake was a dual plane aluminum Eidlbrook (sp) with a 650 dual pumper. For the 318 it seemed to be OK...
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2004, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for all your answers, it help a lot.

I will install headers, even if now I know that it's a pain...but no pain no gain. I wanted to ask what kind of pain, but with bongobobny reply I have an idea of what kind. I already have some work to do in the front for the brakes conversion, so to disconnect tie-rod should even be part of the process.

D76G12, you talk about the aluminium intake, were they all like that or only from a certain year? And also you mentionned stock-style Hemi mufflers, what are they? I was thinking about the Thrush Turbo (#17696) muffler from Dynomax to start with.

Thanks again for your help.

I should be able to post some picture of the car before long...
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2004, 06:30 PM
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Sorry, lost my mind for a minute - the Mopar intake I was referring to won't fit a stock 318, it needs the W2 heads ... Yeah, the Edelbrock Performer is a good choice. If you can find a mid-80's 318 cop car engine at a junk yard and get the heads & intake manifold (4v) from it that'll give you a nice boost of power too ...
The Thrush "Turbo" muffler is OK. The mufflers I use have a continuous "S" shape inside them like the Dynomax Super Turbo ... also a good choice.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2004, 02:07 AM
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I might be wrong but didn't the 318 use a different cam grind between 2V and 4v carbs?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2004, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intrepitor
I might be wrong but didn't the 318 use a different cam grind between 2V and 4v carbs?
The only 318-4v that I know of is the mid-80's police version. The cams probably were different since the valves were bigger (same size as the 360). Let me see ... hmmm - no info on the stock cam grinds in either of my small block books. :(

I did run across one note, however. The "How-To Hot Rod" book says the police heads will drop a little of the low-end torque so maybe you'd better save the police head/intake swap until you rebuild the engine. The Edelbrock Performer is still a good choice for the 4v intake ...

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2004, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the answers.

I bought an old Dart Sport '74 for the parts (brake parts especially)...man what a nightmare to remove these upper control arms I have been battleling for 2 days to remove these damn bolts !!! The sleeve and washer of the bushing has weld to the bolt by the rust. On 4 bolts 3 were less of a big fight, but the last one !!!
Do you have any tricks to remove those, because I will have to redo the same thing on the '72. On the '72 I won't be able to do the same thing (destroying) !!!

Have a nice day.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2004, 07:47 PM
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Torch... Melt em off!!!
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2004, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoparFan03
Thanks for the answers.

I bought an old Dart Sport '74 for the parts (brake parts especially)...man what a nightmare to remove these upper control arms I have been battleling for 2 days to remove these damn bolts !!! The sleeve and washer of the bushing has weld to the bolt by the rust. On 4 bolts 3 were less of a big fight, but the last one !!!
Do you have any tricks to remove those, because I will have to redo the same thing on the '72. On the '72 I won't be able to do the same thing (destroying) !!!

Have a nice day.
If you're talking about the bolts that connect the A-arm to the inner fender - I use a hammer and a home-made punch to knock them out. If the nut won't come loose, a cold chisel and hammer works wonders ... It takes time, but it always works!
But try the easy tricks first - WD-40 & time or repeated heating & cooling (like from a propane torch).

Then there's always the 3' cheater bar ... :gross_07:
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-11-2004, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yep looks like what I had in mind...torch them down (but while being very gentle with the control arm itself )
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-25-2004, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey HI,

had some major problem with my computer and internet lately, so wasn`t able to reply nothing !!! (stupid computer)

So anyway, the Dart '74 is good for the crusher now, and I have all I need to do the brake conversion ... thanks god.

My question is about the headers. I went to my dealer and now I know that I can have a set of headers from Mopar Performance for 231$CDN, compare to 190$CDN in special for Hedman (regular price is 240$). The article from Mopar Performance is it of good quality? And at the same price would you go for Mopar or aftermarket?

Thanks again for your help
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-25-2004, 05:25 PM
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Wow! Mopar Performance makes headers for your car?!? I'm really surprised ...
Well, I've always believed that MP knows my Mopar engine/car better than the after-market guys so that's who I've always gone with - if I can afford it. But they do tend to be a little pricey ... Is the tubing the same gauge and material (I assume steel)?
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