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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 10:09 PM
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Wonder if the previous owner funked up some of the wiring?

You say both the Left door Sail and Lower door speaker don't work? Swap one or both from the right side and do a quick check. If that doesn't do anything....then time to check the wiring.

Did you have the plastic trim covers off when you were dealing with the amp? Wonder if there was some cut/splice going on in that area for the wiring?
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 10:19 PM
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And when you talked about installing the aftermarket HU you indicated connecting both blue wires? Which exactly were these? I ask because the amp turn on wire from an aftermarket is typically a Blue wire. Do you have a wiring harness adapter for the HU? Was that the other Blue wire you were talking about? Or are you splicing into the factory car wiring? A blue wire in the actual car harness itself?

The amp turn on wire in the car factory harness is a Dark Green wire with a Red stripe. That's where your HU power on/amp on Blue wire should be connected to. If you're connecting to the Dark Blue/White or Orange stripe wires in the car harness that's the output to the right rear speaker!

Check those connections.

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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Everything looked intact in the amp wiring, I just had the one plastic panel off that you have to take off to get to it. If you change the balance to left and crank the volume you can hear sound (but very static-ey) in at least the sail speaker; I'll try swapping the speakers tomorrow too though.

On the blue wire, it is the amp turn on from the aftermarket radio's harness to the OEM-to-aftermarket adapter (Metra) harness; it just fell out of the Metra's connector and I had to push it in and tape it so it wouldn't fall out again. That restored the sound back to how it was with the stock HU.

I wish they made an amp bypass cable, all they would have to do is duplicate the socket on the amp and put in 8 pins. If the speakers work when swapped I'll probably just bypass the sub and install new speakers; just hate to chop up the factory wiring.
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyNC View Post
I wish they made an amp bypass cable, all they would have to do is duplicate the socket on the amp and put in 8 pins. If the speakers work when swapped I'll probably just bypass the sub and install new speakers; just hate to chop up the factory wiring.
There's a Sub in the car? If so where's the amp for it and how is it connected? That might be your problem right there. The OEM systems don't have a Sub.

You failed to mention that in your earlier posts.

Last edited by Ronbo; 08-30-2016 at 11:38 PM.
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 11:37 PM
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PAC Audio used to make a "Amp Bypass" wiring adapter kit. Might still be some to be found on the interwebs. They also used have plug-n-play LOC kits with the wiring adapter to add a Sub easily to the stock system. I think I have one or two of them new laying around.

Otherwise there are cheap wiring adapters on Ebay that you need to solder up and make work.
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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-31-2016, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I meant bypass the amp not bypass the sub (was writing just before bed.)
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-31-2016, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Putting the right door speakers into the left door does result in good sound. I don't know how the previous owners could have blown all the speakers except one door, that's nuts.

Thanks for all your help, hopefully I'll just be installed new speakers and be gtg now.
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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-31-2016, 05:14 PM
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Aftermarket speakers should be 4 ohm same as the OEM Midline if you're going to replace them.
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