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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-07-2005, 04:04 AM Thread Starter
 
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Big 3 question

Have anybody here did the big 3 wit 0/1 gauge wire? If so, did you use a T block (picture). If not, how did you do it?

Here is my setup:
Battery clamp
0/1 gauge - to T-block
2 gauge - to factory positive battery booster cable post
8 gauge - dont know where it goes but it is a factory post
8 gauge - to my relays (air horns & aux)


T block


Now I was thinking about getting either 1 to 3 farad cap. So I can run one 0/1 to the caps and then use a distribution block to all my amps. Because as you can see I have two 4 gauge wires going to the back. One for my mids & highs and one for my lows. A Mtx tech said that it is better to run a separate wire to the 81000D for power and its own ground wire too. I would like to know if anybody else have any ideas. I am all ears.

Last edited by boss_player2001; 04-07-2005 at 05:22 AM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-07-2005, 12:21 PM
 
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That block is definitely not designed to be mounted ouside the car (under the hood is considered "outside" the car). You would be better off with a single 1/0AWG run to the trunk rather than splitting it up under the hood. If you run a single 1/0AWG to the trunk you aren't going to have any problems with supplying power to all of your amps.

Also, what are you trying to accomplish with the cap? Most likely it isn't going to be much more than something to look at back there...
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-07-2005, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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But you know that a MTX 81000d amp needs to be connected directly to the battery to run properly. So how should I do it? Has you can see I still will have a wire coming from the battery and a wire coming from the alternator. And then I have to run a wire to the back of the car. If I dont use the t-block what other blocks are their? It has to have 3 0/1 gauge inputs.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-07-2005, 05:38 PM
 
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You don't need a dedicated line just for the 8100D. It will be fine sharing a larger run with the other amps. It has 4AWG running to it now right? If so it will be fine sharing a 1/0AWG wire with your other amps...
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-07-2005, 05:54 PM
 
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run 0awg to your trunk and split them off of the cap
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-07-2005, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbaudiopro
You don't need a dedicated line just for the 8100D. It will be fine sharing a larger run with the other amps. It has 4AWG running to it now right? If so it will be fine sharing a 1/0AWG wire with your other amps...
But how am i going to split the wire coming from the battery going to the alternator without using a Distribution Block? I was thinking about using this



I would have the 0/1 gauge input for the battery and the two outputs. One will goto the alternator and one will go to the amps. What you think about that?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2005, 11:22 AM
 
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Why do you need to split anything? If you want to power the amps directly from the alternator run your power wire down to the alternator and bolt it under the same lug that you connected to for the run to the battery. You can have more than one wire connected to that lug and then you have no need for a distrobution block under the hood. There are no distribution blocks I've seen that are rated for underhood use. You do have fuses already on the main power lines to the trunk though right???
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2005, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yes i have one fuse for my main power wire right now.But if I run a wire from the battery to the alternator and run a wire from the alternator to my amps I will need another fuse for the alternator to the amps power wire.


One more question:
I already have a two wire on my alternator. Battery to alternator (shock wire ) and battery to alternator (0GA wire, not shock). Now can I put another wire on there? Or that would be a smart thing to do?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2005, 12:16 PM
 
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Instead of running a 1/0AWG from the alt. to the battery, just run 1/0AWG to the trunk. Then you don't need to upgrade the run to the battery. Put a 300A fuse on that wire, run it to the trunk and distribute it all back there...
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2005, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbaudiopro
Instead of running a 1/0AWG from the alt. to the battery, just run 1/0AWG to the trunk. Then you don't need to upgrade the run to the battery. Put a 300A fuse on that wire, run it to the trunk and distribute it all back there...
That wouldnt put any stress on the alternator that way.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2005, 01:23 PM
 
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It's all equal. There's no difference in "stress" between connecting the alt to the battery with a large cable then connecting at the battery vs. simply connecting at the alternator. The alternator is the root source of all power for the car. No matter where you tap for power it's all sourced by the alternator. So why not go to the source and save the trouble of upgrading all the other connections???
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2005, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the info. I am going to do that.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2005, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Is it a way I can extend the bolt on my alternator? Because I dont have any room to another wire.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2005, 02:52 PM
 
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If the stud isn't long enough then I'd remove the extra run between the battery and the alt. Powering the amps directly from the alt really makes that upgrade useless anyway...
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2005, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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I am dumb. I forgot about that. my fault

lol
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