The amps I'm looking at have optional clip-on cooling fans and will be pumping about 150w per channel. No big subs, no 0 gauge wire, no 1fd cap, pretty vanilla install other than running at almost 10x the per-channel spec of the factory head. I think that the RBQ and RB4 run at 16 watts/ch RMS into 4 ohms, the Infinity amp runs that up to something like 30 w/ch RMS into 2 ohms.
The rationale for the amp locations is to keep the overall cable runs as short as possible and to use well-shielded low-level cable to run signal.
But if you're telling me that I won't gain anything by using a HiLo converter the strategy changes somewhat.
I should be able to run the signal from the factory head back to the current Infinity amp location using the factory harness and then branch out to the new amps. From there run heavier speaker wire from that location to the 6 speakers.
This keeps from splicing into the under-dash wiring (or making a custom plug-in harness) for the front speakers/amps but requires that I run speaker wire forward through the sills to the front speakers. Having a pair of 300 watt amps in the rear might be justification for a dedicated, fused relay-controlled power and ground run in the 8 gauge range.
Why settle on using amps rated at 2x 150 watts? That seems to be the "price break" (for both amps and speakers) between what is a nice power and quality upgrade and the beginnings of outrageous $$ and power.
Of course there is no way that I'll be doing any of this until I get a string of 40-50 degree days, installing car audio outdoors in a Minnesota Winter is just plain stoopid. So there is plenty of time to think the kinks out of the design.
Last edited by '98-ESer; 02-10-2006 at 06:10 PM.