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post #1 of 90 (permalink) Old 10-10-2006, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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2G How-To: Infinity Amp Bypass

Due to popular demand, I have posted a how-to on the amp bypass for the 2G intrepid infinity system. It should work with all of the infinity systems, because logically any extra wires shouldn't be used. This is by no means a final draft, as I have yet to edit it for spelling/grammar errors, or added pictures. I would like to get this stickied though, as we are getting several requests for amp bypass help in the car audio forum. Heres the first draft:

Heres a quick how-to, and if you have any questions, e-mail me, [email protected]. I don't check my PMs a lot. Pictures will be added at a later date.

(this will be easier with the car door open)
1) pull off the skid panel at the bottom of the door. Find the passenger side kick panel directly adjacent to the panel you just removed and remove the 2 long screws with a philips head screwdriver.

2) Remove the panel carefully so you don't scratch and other trim pieces.

3) Locate the groups of wires connected to the amplifier and disconnect all of them. You may also have to remove some of the tape connecting the wires together.

4) Locate the 2 main groups of wires. One should have several wires, including red and black. This is the input wire harness. the wire group that includes wires twisted together, like green/black twisted with green/red, are the output wires.

The basic concept of this project is to connect the input wires coming from the head unit, to the output wires that are heading to the speakers. This will completely bypass the factory amp, allowing clearer sound and one less device in your car wasting power.

5) Find the 2 wires twisted together that are blue with a red stripe, and blue with a black stripe. This stands for positive and negative for the front right speaker. The same basic concept works for all of the speakers. The first wire listed is the wire on the speaker wire bundle, and the second is from the input wires. Cut the following wires and make the following connections:

FRONT RIGHT SPEAKER
LT BLUE/RED --> VIOLET (FR+)
LT BLUE/BLK --> DK BLUE/RED (FR-)
FRONT LEFT SPEAKER
LT GRN/VIOLET --> DK GREEN (FL+)
LT GRN/BLK --> BROWN/RED (FL-)

6) I would recommend stopping here like I did and trying to listen to the radio or a CD to test whether or not the front speakers were wired properly. You should notice right away if something is not connected properly. Continue on the the rear speaker wires. They are the ones running along the passenger trim running towards the back of the vehicle.

REAR RIGHT SPEAKER
TAN/RED --> DK BLUE/WHITE (RR+)
TAN/BLK --> DK BLUE/ORANGE (RR-)
REAR LEFT SPEAKER
WHITE/RED --> BROWN/YELLOW (RL+)
WHITE/BLK --> BROWN/LT BLUE (RL-)

Make sure you are using butt/crimp connectors or another reliable way of connecting the wires such as soldering. I also used electrical tape around my crimps for a little extra peace of mind.

7) At this point, you can do your final listening test, and even use your balance and fader controls (if available) to hear each individual speaker to make sure everything sounds right.

8) If everything is kosher, tie up the wires with cable ties or electrical tape and try to position them so the kick panel can easily be put back into place. I had to place some of the wires under the carpet, but you can do it however you see fit.

9) Put the screws back into the holes and line them up with the corresponding holes in the side or the cabin. This might take a little moving around but it shouldn't be too dificult if you ties the wires up nicely.

10) Enjoy!

Like I said, this is just a rough draft, so if you find any mistakes let me know. I'm almost positive it should be the same process for all 2G infinity systems but I definitely could be wrong. Thanks for looking and if you like it, tell me, if you don't like it, tell me what to change.

Josiah

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post #2 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 04:35 PM
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Hey, Josiah
Thanks for this. I used it today to bypass my amp, and it was spot on. Saved me a lot of time.
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post #3 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodgaholic
Hey, Josiah
Thanks for this. I used it today to bypass my amp, and it was spot on. Saved me a lot of time.
No problem. I had a lot of requests for help on the topic so I decided to basically take my notes from my own project and put it on a how-to. I sent a message to an admin to try and sticky this somewhere but I never got an answer...

Josiah
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post #4 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 11:13 PM
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i should have taking pictures when i did mine...i can still take them i guess
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post #5 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 11:40 PM
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Yeah, I forgot to take pix too. Just a bunch of wire nuts in a snake pit anyway. I didn't solder after the first connection, so I can put it all back when I eventually sell the car.
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post #6 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 11:13 AM
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When I bought my aftermarket headunit, there was a paper included saying that it should be connected to no less than 4-ohm speakers or fire could result. I still have the factory speakers for now. Aren't the factory speakers 2-ohm? I'm thinking as long as the infinity amp is still connected, it doesn't matter what impedance the speakers are.
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post #7 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dafella
When I bought my aftermarket headunit, there was a paper included saying that it should be connected to no less than 4-ohm speakers or fire could result. I still have the factory speakers for now. Aren't the factory speakers 2-ohm? I'm thinking as long as the infinity amp is still connected, it doesn't matter what impedance the speakers are.
I doubt you will have a fire, but you are probably damaging something, and at the very least, not getting the sound quality/power potential you could get from adding 4 ohm speakers. It has always been my recommendation to bypass the stock amplifier using the above method, and finding a set of 4 ohm speakers you like (6.5 or 6.75 fronts, 6x9 rear). This is the easiest way to upgrade your stock system. 2 ohm speakers should definitely not be used with a 4 ohm headunit. I don't know a lot about the technical reason for this, but I do know its not going to sound as good, and could possibly be damaging your speakers and/or headunit. You should fix this as soon as you can.

Josiah

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post #8 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-06-2006, 04:22 PM
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Would this procedure work for bypassing the amp I have mounted in the trunk? I'm thinking of replacing all of my stock speakers but keeping my factory head unit.
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post #9 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-06-2006, 04:36 PM
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The whole thing is based around taking the speaker wires that connect to the "in" side of the amp, and connecting them to the ones coming "out" of the amp, and cutting power to the amp itself. If you know that your speaker color codes are the same, or you know what they are, it should work just the same.
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post #10 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-06-2006, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneSpecialM
Would this procedure work for bypassing the amp I have mounted in the trunk? I'm thinking of replacing all of my stock speakers but keeping my factory head unit.
I don't have firsthand knowledge on replacing the stock speakers with aftermarket speakers and keeping the stock cd player, because I literally did the amp bypass before I even installed the speakers. If thats what you mean I would highly recommend following the above procedure, unless you have a bone stock/base line system, in which case I think it would work ok. The thing to remember is whenever doing this, the speaker you place in the door is only going to produce bass/mid-bass or whatever frequency the stock amp sends the speaker. The sail speakers are designed to play the higher frequencies. Other than that, you might have to holler at someone with a stock system who replaced their speakers with aftermarket ones.

Josiah

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post #11 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-18-2006, 07:31 PM
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I was doing this today, following the instructions when I realized that I have a bunch of extra wires. I'm assuming they're for the tweeters in the sails, but I was wondering if anybody knew which wires connected to which for the front speakers.

The rear speakers were wired exactly like it said here. The front speakers however are different I think.
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post #12 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-18-2006, 08:08 PM
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There are a couple of colors that are easy to confuse. Bright light helps. The other wires are for the sail speakers, and of course the power and ground for the amp.
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post #13 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-18-2006, 10:26 PM
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What I decided to do is use the crossover that came with my after-market speakers. I believe there are only 8 wires coming from the head-unit (FR+, FL+, FR-, FL-, RR+, RL+, RR-, RL-) so this should work right?
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post #14 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-19-2006, 10:14 PM
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Sure will. My HU has High Pass filter settings, and sub control, so I didn't need in line control, but yes, the crossover should work just fine.
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post #15 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-20-2006, 02:41 AM
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After hooking it up it sounds good. The amplifier is just dead-weight now right?
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