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Inner, outer, or both? Outer tie rod ball joint stud is easy to remove. Sometimes can break it loose from the strut bracket by giving a couple of good whacks with a 3 pound hammer on the side of the bracket and on the end of the stud after removing the nut of course. Also there is plenty of room for a small pulley/gear/wheel puller to just press it out if that would be your preference.
You should check both inner tie rod bushings for wear - they definitely wear out on these cars. In fact, are you sure that's not all it needs on the tie rods? 95k miles is kind of early for outer tie rod wear, and the bushings are inexpensive.
Only have the inner tie rod bolt on one side out at a time because there is a part inside the rack that both bolts go thru, and it can slide out of position if both bolts are out at the same time, which will cause re-assembly problems.
Your toe alignment will be off after the work, so get it as close as you can and get it to an alignment shop right away after finishing.
It would not be unusual for the toe adjuster sleeves to be binding up and possibly breaking apart, making it difficult to do alignments. Consider replacing both with aftermarket ones that have a large hex for turning instead of the knurled area like the factory ones. That is one part that aftermarket has a better part for - but aftermarket has both types, so be sure to get the type with the hex grip.
Timing belt is way overdue if it hasn't been done. Most people only know about the 105kmile change interval, but it's 105kmiles or 7 years, whichever comes first. These are what are called interference engines, so if the belt breaks, there will be expensive engine damage. Change the water pump and timing belt tensioner pulley at the same time.
'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
Last edited by peva; 03-09-2016 at 12:58 AM.