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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Painting my Trep

I painted the trep and had a tiny bit of orange peel on it. No big deal, right, I wetsanded with 1000 grit down to remove the peel. OK, well now my paint is a matte black, not shiny whatsoever. I bought some turtle polishing compound, a liquid. Turtle Wax - Premium Polishing Compound and put it on my polisher and ran it for about 5 minutes or so, and it shined it up to a less matte black. How in the hell do I shine up black paint? What am I doing wrong?

Dupo
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 10:47 PM
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that sucks. I'd say you prob went too deep. the orange peel comes from your prep. to paint. sand that panel with 800 grit paper then scuff it with a grey scuff pad. wash the area. and repaint that panel. allow the paint to dry good before buffing. I work at a body shop this is what we normally do. prep is one of the most important step. take your time sanding. otherwise it will show through the paint in the form of orange peel

Last edited by kamikaze; 04-28-2009 at 10:49 PM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 10:53 PM
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you should at least finish wet sanding with 2000+ grit sandpaper. or a compound with the same cutting rating. Buffing compound is recommended BEFORE polishing compound also.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 10:54 PM
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It could be from to much or not enough hardener too, not just the prep. I take it you are painting with enamel?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 10:55 PM
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The last car I did we started wet sanding with 1000 and finished with 2000.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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yes painting with acrylic enamel. The car was wetsanded with 1000 grit on the primer, the paint appeared to go on gritty. I was under the impression that it goes on like that and it is wetsanded down and polished. This is the first time I've ever painted a vehicle so I think this is gained experience.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 06:30 AM
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I do this all the time here at our shop. I am taking it that the paint has fully cured & dried. If so, to get the shine back in the paint you will need to us a buffing compound & a high speed buffer, not a polisher. If use this, be careful you do not burn thru the paint. The compound you need you can not buy at your local auto parts store. Try going by a detail or body shop to see if they will sell you some.

Later...

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 11:48 AM
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Dupo 24,

Out of curiosity, how many coats of clear did you spray on your car? It should be at minimum three coats of clear. Then you should only sand your clear coat lightly with 1500 grit and move to 2000 grit sand paper to finish. Remember that both of these steps should only be wet sanding the clear. Then like Grant said, you need to go to a automotive paint supply store, not autozone or pepboys, and buy a bottle of meguiar's medium grade buffing compound and a bottle of meguiar's scratch remover.

Also, if you do end up re-painting the part with color because you wanted to start over. Do not sand your color paint before you apply clear. I repeat do not sand your color before you apply your clear coat. This will lighten your paint color up significantly.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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I've got about a bazillion pics to put on here. I'm done spraying the last color coat of enamel. I've been hearing different things about enamel. My guess is that I wetsand the little bit of orange peel out of the final coat, buff the bejeezus out of it...not so much to burn through or anything, but buff it till it's shiny, then run 3-5 coats of clear over it. Am I right?
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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There we go.

The first picture is the trep before we really did anything to it.

Pic 2: Taking the headlights and tail lights off, getting ready to mask the trim.
Pic 3: Masking for the first time getting ready to hit it with the spray gun.
Pic 4: Spraying the first coat of primer down.
Pic 5: First coat of primer on, ready to sand and touch up.
Pic 6: We decided to half ass shave the door handles. It was retarded, I know. Unique is what I call it.
Pic 7 Primered again and another coat of bondo where we messed up at.
Pic 8: The deck lid. We sprayed it separately to learn how to do the car. I believe I have resprayed this thing 3 times.
Pic 9: The decklid from another angle. Minor orange peel on it.
Pic 10: the car during a paint shot. We had no ventilation, didn't want any type of bugs or dust or anything in it. The overspray was terrible.
Pic 11: The 2nd coat of primer again.
Attached Images
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Last edited by Dupo24; 05-04-2009 at 08:39 PM.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dupo24 View Post
I painted the trep and had a tiny bit of orange peel on it. No big deal, right, I wetsanded with 1000 grit down to remove the peel. OK, well now my paint is a matte black, not shiny whatsoever. I bought some turtle polishing compound, a liquid. Turtle Wax - Premium Polishing Compound and put it on my polisher and ran it for about 5 minutes or so, and it shined it up to a less matte black. How in the hell do I shine up black paint? What am I doing wrong?

Dupo
Off the shelf stuff isn't gonna bring your shine out. You need a commercial rotary buffer and some agressive compounds used in a progressive order. Also, what kind of equipment did you use to spray the car? That also could have something do to with the large amount of orange peel.

Last edited by LOUD02Special; 11-19-2009 at 12:22 PM.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 05:34 PM
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we use 3M's "Perfect -It III" extra cut compound to shine the paint back up after sanding and then 3M's "Finesse-it " compound which is less aggressive to finish it off for an even smooth shine
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