Oxidation of the clear coat? - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2006, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Oxidation of the clear coat?

On my 1997 LHS, there are some small sort of rough and white-ish areas. I've been told this is probably oxidation/failure of the clearcoat and that only a re-paint can cure it.

What I'm wondering, if this is true, is if there is any way to minimize these areas for now so they're not so noticeable? I noticed that just after a wash these patches are body color again even if not shiny.


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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2006, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by jtfolden
On my 1997 LHS, there are some small sort of rough and white-ish areas. I've been told this is probably oxidation/failure of the clearcoat and that only a re-paint can cure it.

What I'm wondering, if this is true, is if there is any way to minimize these areas for now so they're not so noticeable? I noticed that just after a wash these patches are body color again even if not shiny.


John
I would definitely try a clay bar if you haven't already! Should take care of it if it's still in the early phases!
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2006, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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I would definitely try a clay bar if you haven't already! Should take care of it if it's still in the early phases!
Really? That's certainly better than a new paint job, $$$ wise. Forgive my ignorance, but what is the normal process for using a clay bar and what do you follow it up with?

Thanks!
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2006, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jtfolden
Really? That's certainly better than a new paint job, $$$ wise. Forgive my ignorance, but what is the normal process for using a clay bar and what do you follow it up with?

Thanks!
John
Here's what I do...

Wash your car, heat the bar up a little so it's malleable, rub over all the painted surfaces (particularly on the hood, roof, trunk lid) in a circular motion being sure to keep the surface nice & wet. The bar will slide along very quickly and smoothly once all the contaminants are removed. Then you're ready for your usual buffing/polishing/waxing or sealing!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 11:20 AM
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i wouldnt do it in a circular motion, rub it on the paint in the direction the wind flows over the car, incase it mars the paint it wont be as noticable in the sun.

I wouldnt use clay bar if the areas of the paint are suddenly dull, and white looking, that sounds just like the early stages of my clear coat peeling. The best thing you can do is take gentle care of the paint and seal/wax around the white spots and on it as much as possible and pray it doesnt flake off.

But then again I dont know exactly what it looks like so you might try claying it, just make sure you have the finest grade clay that you can find, and make sure to use plenty of clay lubricant while the panel is still wet, be gentle. Its easy to fuck up a panel with clay, I've done it.

Oh and if you drop the clay, dont use the part that hit the ground, throw it away, I recommend cutting the clay into a few chunks and storing the unused stuff in the wrapper or in a clay container filled with spray wax. Remeber to knead the clay into itself often when it becomes contaminated to prevent micro marring.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like my best bet is to snap a photo or two the next time I have a chance and post it.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japy
i wouldnt do it in a circular motion, rub it on the paint in the direction the wind flows over the car, incase it mars the paint it wont be as noticable in the sun.

I wouldnt use clay bar if the areas of the paint are suddenly dull, and white looking, that sounds just like the early stages of my clear coat peeling. The best thing you can do is take gentle care of the paint and seal/wax around the white spots and on it as much as possible and pray it doesnt flake off.

But then again I dont know exactly what it looks like so you might try claying it, just make sure you have the finest grade clay that you can find, and make sure to use plenty of clay lubricant while the panel is still wet, be gentle. Its easy to fuck up a panel with clay, I've done it.

Oh and if you drop the clay, dont use the part that hit the ground, throw it away, I recommend cutting the clay into a few chunks and storing the unused stuff in the wrapper or in a clay container filled with spray wax. Remeber to knead the clay into itself often when it becomes contaminated to prevent micro marring.

Good points japy!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 09:28 PM
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Thanks, I just don't want to see an chrysler/dodge owner do any harm to their paint, that would be like drop kicking baby jesus himself!
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 11:29 PM
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Yeah, in my car's case... the contaminants on the paint surface are not bad, so I can get away with just using the water as lube and circular/side-to-side motion or whatever, without causing any harm. Just my little method...
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-01-2006, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japy
But then again I dont know exactly what it looks like so you might try claying it, just make sure you have the finest grade clay that you can find, and make sure to use plenty of clay lubricant while the panel is still wet, be gentle. Its easy to fuck up a panel with clay, I've done it.

Well, here's a pic of the roof issue. The problem area is roughly 3 inches by 5 inches i think. The flash made it even more obvious than it is but that's probably a good thing for the sake of this conversation. This is the only really bad spot on the car and the little roof ridge that runs into this spot has the same problem as you can see. It's certainly looks like a failing clear coat to me but If I could stabilize it and make it less noticeable for the next six months that would be great. Next Spring I can always have the car repainted.



When the car is wet you can't even see it, it becomes body colored, which is why I wondered if there weren't something to at least 'cover it up' with. This car sat in a garage with nothing done to it for over a year. before I got a hold of it, it hadn't even had a bath since march of 2005.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-02-2006, 03:34 PM
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jtfolden,

A clay bar is not going to remove that. A clay is intended to lift contaminants off the paint surface, such as overspray or metal particles.

To get rid of that you'll need to compound it with a cleaner/polish to remove a thin layer of the clear coat. If you have a detailing shop near by, a quick rotary buff with a product like Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish will get rid of it fairly easily. Then you'd apply a pure polish to make the paint shine (replenish the natural oil of the paint), topped off with a coat of wax.

You can do the same yourself if you have a proper buffer (either Porter Cable DA or rotary). If you don't have a buffer (don't bother with the $50 cheapo ones, they don't do anything), then you'll need some good elbow grease. Again, I'm only familiar with Meguiars products. For hand rubbing you'd want to use the ColorX. With a pure polish and wax after that. See what ColorX can do to the following oxidized Bronco:



Read this thread at Meguiars On-line to learn about this:

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2006, 12:45 AM
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Yeah the only thing thats gonna make that spot less visable is polishing it, I would highly recommend not going with any real "compounds" at this point, use glazes and polishes as they tend to be softer on the paint, and with enough of them you should be able to fill in a good deal and blend the area so its not as noticable.

I wish that you lived like down the street or something, I'd have you swing by and I could polish it out for you, I'm stumped on exactly which polishes and strengths to use because I can't really get a good perception of the depth of the surface...imperfections? I guess the best way I could tell you would be to actually see it in person >_< Wish I could be of more help.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 12:09 PM
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Oxidation and clear coat failure are in a sense the same thing, they are just different stages of the same process. The thing is, once the clearcoat actually fails there is no going back. Oxidation, on the other hand, can be fixed. I buffed the oxidation off my car just the other week (make sure you lay down some wax afterwards or your efforts will be undone in not too long.)
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