As per request below are the basics of waxing your car with a power tool
I can’t really say I am a professional at this…I have never done it for a living and mostly do just my own cars. But I have owned a random orbital buffer for about 5 years and have had great results over that time and have never ruined a finish. I highly recommend a buffer for anyone and everyone who waxes their car regularly.
Orbital Buffer 101
There are two different types of buffing....rotary and random orbital.
They cost anywhere from $30 - $400 or more. In the case of buffers personally I do not think high price is necessarily better. I highly recommend a random orbital buffer for beginners. Professionals generally use rotary buffers. Rotary buffers end results are generally better but there is much greater risk of burning the surface with a rotary buffer. Because rotary buffer's focus their energy only on one area, the device heats up both the wax and the top one-third of the clear coat so that you not only get a better bonding of the wax to the surface, you also have a better, more consistent shine. The risk comes from too much heat which will either burn the surface or strip away your clear coat. In either case, you've got a VERY expensive mistake on your hands. A random orbital device runs at a faster speed, but more closely duplicates the motion of the hand...never focusing on the precise same point for more than a few milliseconds, thereby minimizing any chance for damage to your vehicle's paint surface.
There are three general configurations of buffers.
Palm buffers – light weight, smaller, one handed machines
Wheel buffers – most common, look somewhat like a steering wheel, most common random orbital.
Right Angle buffers – typically rotary buffer, professional models.
I am only going to write about random orbital buffers from this point forward. Leave the rotary machines for the pros.
Keys to use:
1 Clean/wash the car first. The last thing you want is to buff any dirt.
2 When you buy a buffer get a few wax application pads…sell them right next to the buffers. You want a few because you do not want to mix products on the same pad (cleaner, polish, wax)
3 Always clean the pad before using. Old wax build up on a pad can cause swirl marks or scratches.
4 For buffing I personally hand wipe off a majority of the wax and then use a wool bonnet or acrylic/wool bonnet to polish. Again when removing wax you always want to use clean towels.
5 With a buffer you should use about 50% less wax than if you were doing it by hand. You are far better off doing two very thin coats of wax rather than a thick coat.
6 Key with the buffer is to just run it evenly over the surface with light pressure (barely any is needed). Never hold the buffer in the exact same spot for an extended time. If you are working on a trouble spot move the buffer over the spot for multiple passes.
7 Never wax a car in direct hot sunlight. The surface temperature of the car should be less than 90 degrees. If you feel the need to wax in the heat do not use as much pressure when applying/buffing and do small areas at a time so the wax does not bake on.
8 If there is any streaking after polishing a damp towel over the surface and then buffed with a clean dry towel should clean any streaks and provide even a brighter shine.
9 You really have to try and screw up the paint job if you are using a random orbital buffer…as long as you use common sense you should have no problems.