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post #1 of 71 (permalink) Old 06-03-2007, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Cleaning

I'm going to be detaling my engine bay in a couple of days. I have read and re-read many threads about what to cover and what not. Just to make sure, I am including a pic from Ryan's (sneke_eyez) engine bay which is viturally the same as mine. If any one of you could circle the items that should be covered just as a double check for myself that would be wonderful.




Thanks!

Dave
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post #2 of 71 (permalink) Old 06-03-2007, 01:15 PM
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Read the "Simple Green" thread below for a bit more advice.

My one recommendation is that you be particularly careful around your brake fluid reservoir and electrical connections if you use water. I think it even says on the brake fluid cap, "Clean Before Opening". In my opinion, that's the manufacturer telling you to keep the engine bay clean! ;)
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post #3 of 71 (permalink) Old 06-03-2007, 09:03 PM
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I use the black magic stuff. Spray wipe then run drive around the block twice to cook off the rest.
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post #4 of 71 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 11:54 AM
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haha heyy!
nice lookin engine pic you got there!!

how'd the cleaning go??
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post #5 of 71 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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It went pretty good ryan. It was mostly clean, but there was a lot of crud around the reservoirs that I wanted to clean up. I really don't like the glossy look of the polish, but it dust/dirt free. Thanks for the pic BTW.


Dave
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post #6 of 71 (permalink) Old 06-17-2007, 01:50 PM
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post #7 of 71 (permalink) Old 06-30-2007, 05:37 PM
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wow very nice detailing
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post #8 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-04-2007, 02:13 PM
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i do it the dangerous way... once every few months i wrap the CAI filter in a few garbage bags and spray EVERYTHING down with at least 3 cans of foaming degreaser. i let it sit for 10-15 mins inbetween cans..

then i rinse with the HIGH POWER PRESSURE WASHER at the car wash. yes high power.

then i go home and hit up everything it missed with simple green and a tooth brush

the final step is adding meguires tire gel to everything plastic.. then im done

it stays pretty clean this way, but i also dont drive very much

keep in mind this is a 98 with 169,000 miles that has endured 9 ny winters.


this pic was taken BEFORE adding tire gel, so its not as shiny as usual, but still clean enough to eat off, if you dont mind a lil rust..

Last edited by speepdaedeesi; 07-04-2007 at 02:16 PM.
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post #9 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-15-2007, 03:24 PM
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i need to clean mine
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post #10 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-15-2007, 05:59 PM
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Elbow Grease, Srcub Pad.

And armor all shine and protect.
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post #11 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-15-2007, 08:47 PM
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I use the pressure washer as well..... BUT I don't use it on the PCM or near the fluid containers.

Spraying the PCM can result in a LOT of false DTCs until the connectors are dried by hand..... trust me on this, I speak from experience!
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post #12 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-15-2007, 08:56 PM
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The Clean Freak Method. How I do it anyway. And some tips I learned at Carlisle. Thanks Bobby!

I use the dangerous technique as well. Only more so. I power wash at home.

First I run the engine until it gets warm.
Second I spray with simple green let soak then spray again. I also soak the underhood heat shield/cover with simple green. Then let soak again. Oh about 5 min or so. Hit hard enough with powerwasher to remove dirt/grease that is all. Make sure you rinse the whole car with clear water ,as I hear simple green will remove wax and I doubt it is safe for long term exposure to clear coat.
I usually do it in the morning so it can dry all day. If the car will start, restart engine and allow to rewarm. If not let stand a few hours. I have only had 1 case where the engine would not restart due to water intrusion. It restarted 1 hour later and ran fine. I spray all around the plugs and beneath the valve covers as well as in the plenum.

Now it is time to close the hood and wash the entire car. Remember to lift the hood before you wax the front of the car and let dry as the hood cover/shield will drip water on the cowling for quiet some time. After the engine is dry (as well as the under hood cover) I get out my artist oil paint brush, ( about 18 " long) a general fat round parts cleaning brush and Q-tips and get any remaining dirt from the crivices I can see with simple green. Yes I use a high power light to see into the cracks.
Any residue from the simple green I remove in the next step by applying Mothers Back to Black to everything black, using the long artists brush and the parts cleaning brush. The larger areas I apply it with a rag.

The underhood cover/shield gets a spray with high gloss tire shine.
I then wipe everything I can reach to remove as much of the Back to Black as possible. The final step (just added at Carlisle, ((thanks Chet)) is to apply a thin coat of Adams VRT to anything black I can reach. Buffing lightlywith a micro-fiber cloth.
And if required, I remove the windshiel wipers, the cowling, the CAI box and tubing and clean under and seperatley.
Oh yeah, I go back and wax the car afterward in case the simple green removed it.
Hope I got the order right cause too tired to proof read.
The results




Last edited by Duds; 07-15-2007 at 09:12 PM.
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post #13 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-15-2007, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dudley
The Clean Freak Method. How I do it anyway. And some tips I learned at Carlisle. Thanks Bobby!

I use the dangerous technique as well. Only more so. I power wash at home.

First I run the engine until it gets warm.
Second I spray with simple green let soak then spray again. I also soak the underhood heat shield/cover with simple green. Then let soak again. Oh about 5 min or so. Hit hard enough with powerwasher to remove dirt/grease that is all. Make sure you rinse the whole car with clear water ,as I hear simple green will remove wax and I doubt it is safe for long term exposure to clear coat.
I usually do it in the morning so it can dry all day. If the car will start, restart engine and allow to rewarm. If not let stand a few hours. I have only had 1 case where the engine would not restart due to water intrusion. It restarted 1 hour later and ran fine. I spray all around the plugs and beneath the valve covers as well as in the plenum.

Now it is time to close the hood and wash the entire car. Remember to lift the hood before you wax the front of the car and let dry as the hood cover/shield will drip water on the cowling for quiet some time. After the engine is dry (as well as the under hood cover) I get out my artist oil paint brush, ( about 18 " long) a general fat round parts cleaning brush and Q-tips and get any remaining dirt from the crivices I can see with simple green. Yes I use a high power light to see into the cracks.
Any residue from the simple green I remove in the next step by applying Mothers Back to Black to everything black, using the long artists brush and the parts cleaning brush. The larger areas I apply it with a rag.

The underhood cover/shield gets a spray with high gloss tire shine.
I then wipe everything I can reach to remove as much of the Back to Black as possible. The final step (just added at Carlisle, ((thanks Chet)) is to apply a thin coat of Adams VRT to anything black I can reach. Buffing lightlywith a micro-fiber cloth.
And if required, I remove the windshiel wipers, the cowling, the CAI box and tubing and clean under and seperatley.
Oh yeah, I go back and wax the car afterward in case the simple green removed it.
Hope I got the order right cause too tired to proof read.
The results

Now thats a freak!!!
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post #14 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-16-2007, 12:04 AM
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Here is everything you need to know.

I cleaned my engine with engine bright and water for the first time today. I have been scared to do it because you cannot get a solid answer on what to cover and what not to. Well here is my how to for you bud. It worked perfect for me today.

1. Cover your intake in 2 or 3 garbage bags.
2. Sprayed the degreaser everywhere.
3. Let it sit for like 10 minutes.
4. Scrub really grimy parts.
5. Rinse, don't pressure it IMO.
6. Wipe it down with a towel.
7. Let it dry for about 2 hours.
8. Double check that nothing is wet.
9. Start your car!
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post #15 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-16-2007, 12:11 AM
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170,000 miles young on a 1991 dakota!
I did a little bit of "engine bay cleaning" prior to carlisle.
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