2000 Chrysler Concord LXI diagnostic help - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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2000 Chrysler Concord LXI diagnostic help

Ok so I am having an issue with my car. It all started when my car wasn't shifting right and then eventually would die at idle and when power steering kicks in. I have replaced several sensor's and nothing has worked but now the car will start and make a terrable grinding noise. It might run for 10 minutes and then die and not start again and if it does dies seconds after start. Thank you to anyone that sees this and can help. If no one here can figure it out I might take it to a shop and see if they can figure it out.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 05:50 PM
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If you can locate the area of the grinding noise, that might help diagnose it. Could be many things, but timing belt and tensioner pulley come to mind for me. The timing belt tensioner pulleys have been known to come apart - could be affecting timing as well as creating the noise and some of the other symptoms.

Any dash lights, codes? Check peripheral rotating equipment (a.c. compressor, p.s. pump, alternator). What is battery voltage with engine running at around 2000 rpm (can measure at jump posts)? Damper pulley running straight (little to no wobble)? Could it be coming from under a valve cover (rocker mechanisms and rocker what’s can break and otherwise start failing)? A.C. compressor pulley bearing failed and pulley scraping compressor case?

Besides the start of the grinding noise, have symptoms been changing or getting worse?

Others may offer other ideas on possible causes and troubleshooting ideas.


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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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If you can locate the area of the grinding noise, that might help diagnose it. Could be many things, but timing belt and tensioner pulley come to mind for me. The timing belt tensioner pulleys have been known to come apart - could be affecting timing as well as creating the noise and some of the other symptoms.

Any dash lights, codes? Check peripheral rotating equipment (a.c. compressor, p.s. pump, alternator). What is battery voltage with engine running at around 2000 rpm (can measure at jump posts)? Damper pulley running straight (little to no wobble)? Could it be coming from under a valve cover (rocker mechanisms and rocker what’s can break and otherwise start failing)? A.C. compressor pulley bearing failed and pulley scraping compressor case?

Besides the start of the grinding noise, have symptoms been changing or getting worse?

Others may offer other ideas on possible causes and troubleshooting ideas.
I will definitely check that when I get home. Before the grinding the car had a knock and then after driving it a bit more the grinding started. For the voltage I might be able to take a picture of the results from advance auto. The car had a bad battery and I had it checked to make sure the alternator wasn't bad. They said the alternator is fine but your battery needs to be charged and that's surprising because the battery's come charged so I am also concerned about a short some where because some electronics don't work. Thanks for the advice I will check that and get back to you.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 08:02 PM
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Knock not good, but not necessarily serious.

Another possibility is torque converter - might explain high revs while in gear and stalling when not moving, but transmissions are not my area.

Last edited by peva; 06-02-2018 at 08:10 PM.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Knock not good, but not necessarily serious.
I'm concerned the knocked turned into the grinding. Oh I forgot about codes. The cars check engine light isn't on but the oil service light is on and always has been. And even if it was the one of the self diagnostic prongs are broke.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-03-2018, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Just got back into town and started my car. The grinding has completely stopped I don't know what it could but the car still doesn't shift right so I am at a loss.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 04:57 PM
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No expert - but I like this guy...

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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I have watched a couple of his videos on YouTube. I like him too. I will definitely watch this, thank you.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Got a bit of an update. Yesterday I check for a short by getting to the batter and hooking up a lightbulbs volt tester. It turned on when I hooked it up even though no lights where.on and the key wasn't in the ignition. I pulled all of the fuses out one by one and the light never went out. I am going to proceed to look at the wires underneath the carpet and also the ones where the radio is since the radio and the speakers have stopped working I think it might be somewhere there. I will keep the page up to date after I check this. Thanks guys and have a good day
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 06:53 PM
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I'm concerned the knocked turned into the grinding. Oh I forgot about codes. The cars check engine light isn't on but the oil service light is on and always has been. And even if it was the one of the self diagnostic prongs are broke.
If the low pressure oil light stays on at cold startup, hopefully it is either a defective oil pressure switch, or the single wire from the switch to the light is shorted to ground or the connector is wet, creating a leak path to ground enough to light the light (the light is an LED, and doesn’t require much current to glow). With the engine running, is the light on fairly bright, or is it somewhat dim?

If none of that is causing the light to light, the remaining cause would be truly low oil pressure - which could explain some of the noise, but hopefully the noise and light is a coincidence.

Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, see if the light stays off whether engine is running or not. The power for the low oil pressure light is not controlled by any computers. It is an old-school power-thru-mechanical-switch-thru-wire-to-LED deal.

Let us know if the light is on full brightness or somewhat dim when the engine is running, and if the light stays off with the wire disconnected and ignition on (engine can be running or not).

Be aware that when things are normal, the low pressure oil light will be on until the engine runs for a second or so (it takes oil pressure to open the switch to turn the light off).


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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 07:11 PM
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No such thing as an "Oil Service" light on our cars. If it's on it's either a defective Oil Pressure Switch or truly Low Oil Pressure. See Peva's directions above.

You keep talking about the transmission "Not Shifting Right"? What are the symptoms that make you say that? Most transmission problems illuminate the CEL or Check Engine Light. I can't believe you don't have a CEL with these problems.

Does it shift through all gears? Does it stay in low gear and not shift? You're vague on what's actually happening.

Might want to consider getting the connector repaired to read the codes if any.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwlierman View Post
I'm concerned the knocked turned into the grinding. Oh I forgot about codes. The cars check engine light isn't on but the oil service light is on and always has been. And even if it was the one of the self diagnostic prongs are broke.
If the low pressure oil light stays on at cold startup, hopefully it is either a defective oil pressure switch, or the single wire from the switch to the light is shorted to ground or the connector is wet, creating a leak path to ground enough to light the light (the light is an LED, and doesn’t require much current to glow). With the engine running, is the light on fairly bright, or is it somewhat dim?

If none of that is causing the light to light, the remaining cause would be truly low oil pressure - which could explain some of the noise, but hopefully the noise and light is a coincidence.

Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, see if the light stays off whether engine is running or not. The power for the low oil pressure light is not controlled by any computers. It is an old-school power-thru-mechanical-switch-thru-wire-to-LED deal.

Let us know if the light is on full brightness or somewhat dim when the engine is running, and if the light stays off with the wire disconnected and ignition on (engine can be running or not).

Be aware that when things are normal, the low pressure oil light will be on until the engine runs for a second or so (it takes oil pressure to open the switch to turn the light off).
Ok I will check that. From what I have experienced the light turns on after it has been ran a bit. Would low oil pressure cause shifting issues?
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 07:22 PM
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Good call - I just had to change my oil pressure switch - cost me just $12 on Amazon Prime and had my shop put it on when it was on the lift for something else.

Solved my light coming on whenever idling.

Ron had pointed me to this solution.

All great now! I have a 2004 3.5L Concorde so not sure this is the right part for you. I went with Standard rather than Mopar ($12 vs $25) - but maybe I should have gotten the Mopar - but my experience with an older Jeep tells me this is often broken by mechanics doing my oil changes.

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Moto.../dp/B000C7ZT3Y

Good idea to keep a spare...

Last edited by NYCDahon; 06-06-2018 at 07:30 PM.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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No such thing as an "Oil Service" light on our cars. If it's on it's either a defective Oil Pressure Switch or truly Low Oil Pressure. See Peva's directions above.

You keep talking about the transmission "Not Shifting Right"? What are the symptoms that make you say that? Most transmission problems illuminate the CEL or Check Engine Light. I can't believe you don't have a CEL with these problems.

Does it shift through all gears? Does it stay in low gear and not shift? You're vague on what's actually happening.

Might want to consider getting the connector repaired to read the codes if any.
So the issues with shifting are that I can accelerate and reach really high rpms but the car won't shift until I let off the gas. Then when I have to slow down it feels like the car won't downshift. It does go through all gears. Thanks for all the help guys. I never even considered a bad oil pressure sensor.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYCDahon View Post
Good call - I just had to change my oil pressure switch - cost me just $12 on Amazon Prime and had my shop put it on when it was on the lift for something else.

Solved my light coming on whenever idling.

Ron had pointed me to this solution.

All great now! I have a 2004 3.5L Concorde so not sure this is the right part for you. I went with Standard rather than Mopar ($12 vs $25) - but maybe I should have gotten the Mopar - but my experience with an older Jeep tells me this is often broken by mechanics doing my oil changes.

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Moto.../dp/B000C7ZT3Y

Good idea to keep a spare...
Experience of many on this forum suggests that success with aftermarket oil pressure switches is spotty in that they often are out of calibration right out of the box, so you could end up with the light still coming on when pressure is actually in spec. Therefore you’ll often see the advice to avoid the crap shoot and pay the extra for a genuine OEM part. YMMV.
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